Quick wheel bearing adjustment?

[rtarh2o]

I have done a search and found a few mentions of adjusting the front wheel bearings while the wheel is still on the car but not any details?
I did my brakes a couple weeks ago and noticed play in both front wheels, I also have some play in the front end while driving and a shimmy while braking, I assume it is the wheel bearings.
I plan to do a complete front end rebuild in the next couple weeks but have another project in my workshop right now and I don't like working in my driveway (I should say my wife doesn't like it)
So, while waiting for space in my shop I want to just simply jack the car up and tighten the wheel bearings in the easiest way possible just to get me by the next 2-3 weeks.
Any pics or links I am missing?
Rusty

 

[nakman]

First be sure it's wheel bearings, though it does sound like it. Grab the top of your tire and push/pull fairly hard, if you feel a clunk in there than ok it's a loose wheel bearing. by "did my brakes" did you pull rotors off? or was that just pads? It's fairly common to have loose bearings after maintenance, particularly if you reused star washers, etc.

Anyway yeah you can tighten the bearing with the tire still on, but it makes it difficult to remove the drive flange, I'd go ahead and pull the tire off. Read up on the front axle FAQ's.. you only need to go in as far as the dust cover, snap ring, 6 cone washers, drive flange, big outer nut and star washer. Then you can give the inner nut a little twist and put it all back together. that'll buy you another few weeks, easy.

Definitely order new star washers when you do the front end.. also I'd do a new thrust washers and at least two big nuts too- they can really get boogered up if run for a while while loose, new stuff will go back together much easier.

 

[4runnered]

I just did this to mine it's easy. Jack it up and pull the center cap off the wheel, remove the drive flange nuts and typically taping the drive flange with a brass hammer or dead blow will get the acorn washers out or lose enough to pick out, pop the C clip off the axle shaft and remove the drive flange. Once the drive flange is off you"ll be able to access the 54mm nuts that do magic on the bearing. You'll see the lockwasher tabs bent onto the first nut bend the tabs to free the outer lock nut and remove at this time you'll have access to the main nut that adjust your bearing. I cant give you a torque value on the nut as i do mine with a brass throw and some guesstimation. On reassembly you'll need to thread a bolt into the end of the axle shaft and hold to get the C-clip back on. Hope that helps ya

 

[rtarh2o]

As far as the brakes, yes I just did the pads, the rotors looked great so I left them alone. While re-installing the tire I gave it the 12:00-6:00 test and felt a pretty good amount of play so I am sure it is the bearings.
I just looked at a parts diagram and it looks simple enough, I will remove the tire to get to the nuts then re-install the tire as I tighten the bearings to make it easier to rotate and continue to check for play.
As soon as there is space in the shop I will do a front end rebuild along with several other things.
Thanks
Rusty

 

[cody c]

Its pretty easy, you need a 54mm socket, some snap ring pliers, a flat blade and hammer to straighten/bend tabs on the star nut, and a couple sockets (10 or 12 mm).

Apparently according to the manual you want a scale in pounds (20 or 50 pound fish scal should do)
Place the scale hook on the wheel studs, you should be able to pull 8 lbs. on the scale before the hub starts to spin when it is tightened properly. From how I understand it.

The hubs are pretty forgiving if you over tighten it a bit though.

Have fun and make sure you are well overstocked with rags and hand clean.

 

[Litmanovitz]

Here are the instructions how to adjust the preload of the front wheel bearings. DO NOT over tighten the bearings since from bearing design, its better to have some play rather than running them tight, good luck

 

[landtank]

you can't set preload with the brake pads in place. Any drag on the rotor will through that adjustment off.

A quick and easy method is to just torque the inner nut to 10ftlbs and reassemble.

 

[rtarh2o]

I have always just sort of gone by feel on all of the other wheel bearings I have done but I will try the 10lbs on the inner nut and see how that feels. It is just going to be a temporary thing anyway so I am not worried about getting it perfect just better so I can determine that the bearings are the problem.
Thanks to all
Rusty

 

[darwink1]

Last time i did mine I went to 14lb on the inner nut. Wheel spun smooth as silk.

D

 

[Kaoscruizer]

15 ft. lbs. on the inner nut about 5000 miles ago .. worked great.

 

[Litmanovitz]

Gentlemen,
How did you get numbers of 10, 14 or 15 ft/lb for the inner nut?, this is much more than Toyota specifications...

 

[darwink1]

I got 14-15 from reading here on mud..

Also, my buddy Mike (squash) who I bought the van from showed me a trick that kind of lets you know if you overtightened. After tightening use a small flat screwdriver to slightly shift the washer behind that first nut. You should be able to make it move up/down or side to side ever so slightly. If it doesnt move youve overtightened.

I also put the tire back on before reassembling to check for play and give it a spin to check for drag.

D

 

[Litmanovitz]

I know I am new to this forum and I am not trying to be the “wise guy” but let me please explain how I did it. Also, the “free washer” is also good way.
I used a high accuracy torque wrench with 1-15Nm scale, spring scale and dial indicator. Goal is to have zero play at the bearing. I attached the dial indictor and started with small radial play in the bearing. Then, using the torque wrench, I tight the inner nut to 2.5, 3.5, 4.5, and 5.5Nm. At each torque point, I check for radial play with the dial indicator AND check for spinning force, using the spring scale (brake pads out).
I found that between 3.5 and 4.5 Nm (~3 ft/lb, which is very low force), I get zero play at the bearing and ~8 lb of force to spin the hub, which is the proper spec.
Hope this helps and let me know if you need more details,
Good luck

 

[rtarh2o]

It has finally stopped raining here so I hope to get this done tomorrow, thanks!
Rusty

 

[Litmanovitz]

Rusty,
Don't forget to first tighten the inner nut to 59Nm, rotate the hub left and right, loosen the nut, and than do the adjustment. Enjoy.

 

[Tennessee80]

Bumping this. I’ve got a bit of bearing play and want to buy myself a bit of time before I overhaul my front knuckles.

Any new advice (since this thread is old) or is going in and tightening still the same game?

Cheers

 

[60 toy ota]

Bumping this. I’ve got a bit of bearing play and want to buy myself a bit of time before I overhaul my front knuckles.

Any new advice (since this thread is old) or is going in and tightening still the same game?

Cheers

Wow, old indeed and also very dated info. ToolsRUs did a pretty in depth DOE and basically proved the factory spec to be too low, and that 25 ft lbs is a good value for stock tires

 

[chap79]

Wow, old indeed and also very dated info. ToolsRUs did a pretty in depth DOE and basically proved the factory spec to be too low, and that 25 ft lbs is a good value for stock tires

Help needed setting front wheel bearing preload

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[mudgudgeon]

Biggest single best bit of advice, is throw away the fish scale.

Help needed setting front wheel bearing preload

forum.ih8mud.com

Good to see the original discussion of @Tools R Us method.

This post kind of hits the nail on the head

Most issues are from too loose. The bearings are much weaker when run with play, the constant pounding of loose bearings is what destroys bearings, spindles, washers, etc. They need to be maintained so they are always running preloaded. How much preload is the question, 20ft/lb has been working well for me.