Quick Oil Pressure Sender Question

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hey all,

My 6/1975 FJ40 has never had a working original oil pressure gauge. The PO had simply installed a mechanical one when he converted to a V8.

I was playing around with the wiring harness yesterday and located the original electric oil pressure sender connector. I confirmed that the original gauge works using the test-light procedure outlined in @bj40green post (thanks Rudi!) here:

Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

The gauge deflected when I grounded the connector though a test light, so I'm assuming it should function if connected to the proper sending unit.

The only confusing part is - the terminal at the end of the wire isn't correct for the stock pressure sender. As far as I can tell, there should be a special spade connector that slides over the top of the sending unit. My connector (below) has a definite "Toyota" connector, but it's not the appropriate plug.

Was there a separate "pigtail" that connected this plug to the sender?

This plug is low on the driver's side.

@Coolerman - I'm hoping for your expertise here! Also - I'm hoping you have the stock "slide on" connector available.

I'll probably mount a stock Toyota sender down at the port above the oil filter on my V8, and keep the (more useful) mechanical gauge mounted at the back of the block by the distributor. That way, I'll have a fully functioning dash!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Bumping for input.

 

[Coolerman]

I don't know if the 75 harness had a pigtail for the sensor unit, but I sure can make a pigtail for you that will plug into that connector and have the proper oil pressure connector on the other end. I will need two things: How long to make the pigtail and can you take a pic of the sending unit so I know which, of the two types Toyota used, that you need.

 

[bj40green]

If that wire is Yellow/Black stripe (looks White/Black stripe in the picture)
and you have this sender

Than you'll need a horizontal slide on connector from @Coolerman to have it all stock.
Looks like this

Rudi

 

[Coolerman]

Ah! Thanks Rudi!

I do indeed have that connector type! Replied to you via PM with details and price.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

If that wire is Yellow/Black stripe (looks White/Black stripe in the picture)
and you have this sender
View attachment 1193912
Than you'll need a horizontal slide on connector from @Coolerman to have it all stock.

Rudi

Rudi - it is definitely a yellow wire with a black stripe. Kind of strange that it has the wrong plug - it totally threw me off when I was trying to find it...

Ah! Thanks Rudi!

I do indeed have that connector type! Replied to you via PM with details and price.

Thanks, got it! As I mentioned in the PM, don't worry about physically building the pigtail as I do not yet have the sender, nor do I know where I will ultimately be mounting it. PLUS, the engine is getting moved in a few months...in short, pig tail length is still very much TBD.

Thanks for the responses, guys!

 

[honk]

I think that SOR has those connectors also, in their original brown color. Not sure on pricing but would bet that Coolerman's are the lower.

 

[Coolerman]

Mine are black, and yes they are cheaper!

One thought was, IF the 75 harness did NOT come factory with a pigtail that plugged into that connector, then the PO may have used a sender that has just a male spade that the connector you show would have plugged right onto. May explain how it got there.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Yeah, I'd be curious to see what anyone with a stock 75 FJ40's harness looks like. The plug that is on there looks like a stock Toyota connector. Based on every other wiring "mod" done by the PO, he wouldn't have gone through that much effort, he would have just wrapped some bare copper around the sender terminal and taped it.

 

[Coolerman]

Gotta love redneck ingenuity! What amazes me is that some of these hacks will work for years!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I think that SOR has those connectors also, in their original brown color. Not sure on pricing but would bet that Coolerman's are the lower.

Haha, My truck has FJ60 front brakes/axles, Monte Carlo rear brakes, Jeep J20 Saginaw power steering, and a Chevy V8...I think the "original brown color" (or, originality at all) train has left the station! I'll take a black connector from Coolerman, and smile because my whole Pigtail will cost less than SOR's shipping fees!

Gotta love redneck ingenuity! What amazes me is that some of these hacks will work for years!

That was how my truck originally got its name (Clustertruck). Everything is broken, hooked up backward, rattling, and duct taped, and yet it runs, drives, and stops like a champ (about 60% of the time).

 

[honk]

That was how my truck originally got its name (Clustertruck). Everything is broken, hooked up backward, rattling, and duct taped, and yet it runs, drives, and stops like a champ (about 60% of the time).

And the rear lock tumbler is upside down - don't forget that...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

And the rear lock tumbler is upside down - don't forget that...

Trust me - those were some examples, not an exhaustive list... Nobody has time to read all that.

 

[Hamachi]

Ah! Thanks Rudi!

I do indeed have that connector type! Replied to you via PM with details and price.

Are you still selling these connectors? Ill take one if you are...

 

[hobbes]

He may not be still following this thread. You'll find @Coolerman keeps a website with electrical parts for sale here: Cruiser Wiring

His parts/advice/service are all top notch.

 

[Hamachi]

He may not be still following this thread. You'll find @Coolerman keeps a website with electrical parts for sale here: Cruiser Wiring

His parts/advice/service are all top notch.

Thanks bro!

 

[Hamachi]

He may not be still following this thread. You'll find @Coolerman keeps a website with electrical parts for sale here: Cruiser Wiring

His parts/advice/service are all top notch.

Do you know if I a flat pin connector will work in the meantime?

 

[hobbes]

Not sure what that is, but I’d think anything that securely attaches to the end of the sender would work in the short term.

 

[Hamachi]

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

View attachment 2406968

Yes this should work fine. I don’t love crimp connectors for long-term use and I’m sure Coolerman has what you need - but all you really need is a spade or bullet connector to get the sender talking to the gauge.

If this was some “mission critical” component I’d recommend getting a more secure connection but if the crimp doesn’t hold or the spare terminal disconnects you just lose the gauge - not the end of the world.