quick clutch replacement question

[Copenhagen1]

I have searched and read through a lot of threads. I have seen how to remove pilot bearing with grease, bread and ground carriage bolt(not all at the same time). I saw where you have to be careful to not install your clutch disc backwards.

My question is more elementary. Is it easier to replace the clutch by dropping the T/TC and doing it from the bottom of the truck or pulling the engine and installing the clutch and new rear main seal while it is hanging from a hoist?

What are the pros and cons of each method?

Copenhagen1

 

[Copenhagen1]

P.S. It is definitely my clutch. push gas pedal, engine revs faster, truck moves same speed.

Copenhagen1

 

[bajaphile]

I've never done it, but, I am planning to very soon.

My plan of attack was to remove the tranny cover, and hoist the trans/t-case out from the top. I haven't figured out how I am actually going to do that without a cherry picker, so the next easiest would be to drop the trans/t-case.

I think removing the engine would be more like opening up a can of worms.

Which clutch "kit" are you going with? So far I like the spectre the best (value and quality wise)

 

[Copenhagen1]

I've never done it, but, I am planning to very soon.

My plan of attack was to remove the tranny cover, and hoist the trans/t-case out from the top. I haven't figured out how I am actually going to do that without a cherry picker, so the next easiest would be to drop the trans/t-case.

I think removing the engine would be more like opening up a can of worms.

Which clutch "kit" are you going with? So far I like the spectre the best (value and quality wise)

You can look at this link and see the picture in post #2. It was how amaurer solved the cherry picker question.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197872-last-chance-save-me-myself.html

As far as clutch kit, I read somewhere that FJ40Jim said as long as you use AISIN or Asco you should be alright. I did not find it in a kit but I did find the parts I need here:

Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips

The "kit" that they show for my year model is not what I want but the individual pieces are Aisin and Koyo bearings. I think mine will run about $178 with free shipping.

Copenhagen1

 

[shelfboy1]

its real simple take off the shifters and other parts remove the rear engine mounts ,drop the motor down then the tranny will clear the hump and rear crossmember.slide it out and lower it down .i use a tranny jack even used the atv jack once.i dont remove the tranny hump or any other parts but do whatever works for you good luck

 

[Copenhagen1]

I think removing the engine would be more like opening up a can of worms.

Anybody have first hand experience with this. I have always thought when I got ready to do this, I would just do it as shelfboy describes below. I have a mechanic friend, who is not a Landcruiser specialist, but when he looked at it, he offered to let me use his shop on a Saturday and said the way to do it would be to pull the engine because it looked relatively simple to him. Is it a "can of worms"?

its real simple take off the shifters and other parts remove the rear engine mounts ,drop the motor down then the tranny will clear the hump and rear crossmember.slide it out and lower it down .i use a tranny jack even used the atv jack once.i dont remove the tranny hump or any other parts but do whatever works for you good luck

I am looking for comments from cruiserheads who have been there and done that. Should I replace the clutch from underneath the car with the engine in place or should I pull the motor and replace the clutch while it is hanging on a engine hoist?

Thanks in advance for all comments.

Copenhagen1

 

[kyot4x4]

I have always dropped the trans when i do a clutch. i think it is less work to do it that way. never really wanted to pull engine to do a clutch.

 

[crushr]

I have done it both ways on a couple different vehicles including my FJ40. If you have a tranny jack available, go with dropping the xfer and tranny route.

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

I wouldn't call pulling the engine a can of worms, it is a lot more work though, you pretty much have to remove the bib and radiator as well, so then it is only a little more work to remove the fenders to give yourself more room - none of it is difficult but if you have access to a tranny jack and/or some method of slinging the tranny/TC it would probably save time to remove them from underneath. If your vehicle is newer than 1/79 the tranny hump is not removable, just the top plate and it is not large enough for the tranny/TC to fit through.

When I removed the tranny/tc on my '79 there were 2 of us, one of us took the weight from above while the other worked from underneath, didn't have a tranny jack. I wouldn't do it like that again, too much like work! I don't remember having to lower the back of the engine but I must have, the rear mounts are on the bellhousing ('79 BJ40 - the FJ40 of that year might be different?).

 

[Copenhagen1]

Which clutch "kit" are you going with? So far I like the spectre the best (value and quality wise)

Greenbomber - I said in a previous post that I was ordering the individual pieces from Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips and I wanted to let you know how that turned out. For my year model (77) they showed a Daiken kit. I wasn't sure about that and it may be fine but I wanted Aisin because of what I have read on here.

I ordered an Aisin clutch disc, Aisin pressure plate, Koyo release bearing and I thought a Koyo pilot bearing. When I got the pilot bearing it is a Nachi. I will have to research that. I went back and looked and the website did not say it was a koyo so that is on me. I ordered and paid on-line on Monday morning $177 and free shipping and I had them delivered by UPS on Tuesday afternoon. I was very impressed and will definitely order from them whenever possible. Just FYI.

Looks like I will be installing a clutch this weekend.

Copenhagen1

 

[BELMONT148]

Make sure you have a disc alignment tool. Just did mine earlier this year. Remove the tunnel hump, and and all shifter linkage. Drop the tanny/transfer as 1 unit. Remove disc, flywheel, and oil pan from underneath the vehicle. Replace rear main seal, put on a new cork oil pan gasket and reinstall. Have your flywheel resurfaced, and then install new pilot bearing. Reinstall everything with thread locker and torqued to spec. Make sure your slave cylinder rod is adjusted for the right amount of throw, and make sure your TO bearing doesn't rub while released and enjoy.

Jeremy

 

[lc69hunter]

Another issue with pulling the engine is the manifolds and gaskets.

I have generally pulled the tranny hump, primarily for ease of access, removed the shifters and dropped the tranny. As someone mentioned before, depending on your frame and which tranny you have, removing the rear motor mounts to drop the rear down can help.

It's not a hard job, especially if you have someone to help. I did it alone one time, and it was not fun.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I don't see how you could do it without removing the tranny hump and the seats to get to it.

A real tranny jack is almost a necessity unless you have a cherry picker to get it lined up close enough to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing. It will only go in 1.0 ways.

I did it myself without much help. It took a lot of beer. Oh, and I didn't replace the clutch, just the tranny and case. It looked ok and I don't drive it that much. Cheapskate? Perhaps. I did the pilot and throw-out bearings.

 

[BELMONT148]

A little trick to getting it lined up with a cherry picker is to cut the head off some spare tranny to bellhousing bolts. Use them as a guide and remove them as you bolt the tranny up.

Jeremy

 

[brider]

Been there, done that MANY times in the past few years while sorting out my overdrive tranny.

I vote for NOT pulling engine (too much work), and NOT removing rear engine mounts and tilting engine (too much work, PIA to move tranny forward and angle UP at the same time to install).

In the absence of a cherry picker, I've run a big pipe across the closed doors (or thru the wing windows on my Pig) and moved a trans jack underneath (with suitable wood blocks and hold-down strap), and hoisted the tranny/transfer combo down with a chain hoist. That's so you can lower it to the floor and yank it out from underneath. The tranny jack is necessary to remove the bolts, and to hold the tranny pretty much in place so you can slide it backwards so as not to damage the input shaft with too much unsupported weight bearing on it.

When re-installing, I lift the tranny/t-case up with the chain hoist, then move the tranny jack underneath to support it, then move it into position.

DEFINITELY use the longer-bolts-with-heads-cut-off as guide pins in the upper holes to help.

 

[Rocky_LC]

If you don't have a chain hoist, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of those trailer winched (like for pulling a boat on a trailer). They can be mounted to your cross beam, and will lift a tranny and TC. They are about $25.

Also - I had to remove my gas tank to get the Tranny Hump off. I also sheared almost every hump bolt off - not a big deal to drill and re-tap - it just took time...

Lood Luck

Rocky