Question about rock warrior wheels

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I agree. Black oxide is not a very durable coating, and if you live in a high humidity environment, you can expect to see them rusting way quicker than you might expect. Clear or black paint will go a long way to prevent this, but I would also put anti-seize on the threads too. Since you (apparently) live in Arizona, rust may not be a problem, but fading from the sun may be.

After a 4200 mile trip, with lots of rain, the clear coated black oxide is starting to turn a bit red.

Time to pop them off and Cerakote them:doh:
 
After a 4200 mile trip, with lots of rain, the clear coated black oxide is starting to turn a bit red.

Time to pop them off and Cerakote them:doh:

Don't cerakote. I had my RW wheels and rings done 3x by a very reputable shop in San Diego. Never lasted more then 6 months before they started to fade and turn a dull color. The company consulted with cerakote multiple times to no avail and finally just powder coated them. That was 2 years ago and still no issues.
 
Don't cerakote. I had my RW wheels and rings done 3x by a very reputable shop in San Diego. Never lasted more then 6 months before they started to fade and turn a dull color. The company consulted with cerakote multiple times to no avail and finally just powder coated them. That was 2 years ago and still no issues.

Solid intel. Thanks!
 
Well ... I'm sure many will say it is not important at all, but in the instruction doc it has a RED STOP SIGN and IMPORTANT! in Bold where it says to remove the ring before mounting the tire - use your own judgement.

If it were me, I'd print out the instruction doc and bring it with you to the dealer. Tell them that's the way you want it done. Also, be sure they read the part about using stick-on weghts on the outboard inside of the rim and clip-on weights on the inboard wheel rim - just like in the instructions.

Good luck.

HTH

Do you know the reason why the ring has to be removed before mounting the tire? To avoid damage to the ring or some other reason?
 
Do you know the reason why the ring has to be removed before mounting the tire? To avoid damage to the ring or some other reason?

My best guess is to avoid damage to the ring.

HTH
 
@gaijin is correct. Those rings will get damaged if not removed prior to tire installation. It is so easy to see the scratches on the rings when they are brand new but none of that matters after some time on the road, trails and a few car washes.
 
Do you know the reason why the ring has to be removed before mounting the tire? To avoid damage to the ring or some other reason?

The answer is... You don’t need to remove them at all. Some folks do...I suspect because it seems like a bead lock and the need is assumed. But they they are not bead locks. They only protect the stem.

I’ve had many tires installed and removed from Rock Warriors...and the rings are totally fine staying on throughout.
 
The answer is... You don’t need to remove them at all. Some folks do...I suspect because it seems like a bead lock and the need is assumed. But they they are not bead locks. They only protect the stem.

I’ve had many tires installed and removed from Rock Warriors...and the rings are totally fine staying on throughout.
Thanks! I glad to hear that. The threads on my wheel are a bit corroded and probably won't stay on if i take it off/on a couple of times.
 
Sorry for reviving this old thread. So if someone has a 2018 Land Cruiser or 2018 LX 570, will it need new TMPS sensors for Rock Warrior Wheels? Or can your existing stock TMPS transfer over? If you require new TMPS sensors, is it 42607-33012 or 42607-48010?

I read this thread and am getting conflicting info.
 
Your TPMS sensors need to match the vehicle.

The TPMS sensors from the Tundra (original Rock Warrior forged rim fitment), do not work with the Land Cruiser.

Pacific PMV-C015 are the original sensors for '16+ Land Cruisers. DENSO sells them as 550-0106. Toyota part number is 42607-48010. They are all the same part in different boxes.

Not sure how that translates to the LX570, they share so many parts I suspect it is the same, but you'd need to do the research.
 
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I believe the 2018 aluminum 18" wheel TPMS will transfer over to the RW wheels , just need new seals for the TPMS . I'm at this crossroads with my wheels , I have 5 brand new RW and my 2019 only has 1000 miles on the LC , most likely I will break down my 5 stock 18" wheels and transfer the sensors to my new RW wheels .
 
Yes, you can transfer the TPMS sensors from your stock wheels to the rock warrior wheels, but no, the 2018 Tundra TPMS that come in the rock warriors will not work in the land cruiser.
 
2016-2021 sensors are different from 2015 and earlier sensors as stated. Some say "late 2015" use the newer sensors but I never found confirmation of that.

My 2015 with 12/14 build date uses the older sensors which sadly precludes easy sharing wheels with the 2021 (always can ignore the TPMS light...).
 
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There is a post if you do a search with a pretty nice description on how by pass the light and put a switch to turn off the sensor control .
 
There is a post if you do a search with a pretty nice description on how by pass the light and put a switch to turn off the sensor control .
Can you share? I didn't know there was a post like that around on the 200 forums. I only knew about the putting sensors in a PVC pipe and pressurizing.
 
2019 LC200 - jumped on a few hour old craigslist ad for a set of rock warriors out Spokane way... came off a 2013 Tundra TRD (pro?) at 40k mi. Owner had sold the truck with aftermarket, larger rims and the buyer did not want the RW's. You may notice the old-school BFG tires. One had a screw mid-tread... I made use of a tire plug repair kit I've had in my truck for nearly 20 years (reamed out the hole, then passed the tire snake/noodle and withdrew, cut off excess, still holding air for hours now). Being shipped in to the tire shop are some Nitto ridge grapplers, 285/70 R17, 121Q, E. The old BFG with decent tread have a finger breadth clearance at the front end, full lock of steering - front and rear splashguards/wheel well plastic bits, and again at inboard, upper aspect of tire clearing the upper control arm. The RW's have adequate clearance for my brake calipers. Planning to have the tire shop mount just one new tire, on the 5th RW I picked up as a spare (100k mi tundra with engine fire, TX wrecking yard parting it out on ebay), to then check clearance at the front wheel fitment, as above. Owner of the 2013 RW set met me half way on the interstate, included all lug nuts along with a set of locking nuts and appropriate socket drivers, along with a VIN for my troubles trying to buy new center caps. We made the short detour to hit Palouse Falls; we'd never been and it is quite something in spring. Oh, $900 for the 2013 set and $230 for the somewhat rough spare wheel from TX.

DDEV6766.webp


rock warrior.webp
 
Picked up the RWs from powder coat, Cardinal Black T002-BK08. Looking great.

I looked all over but was unable to source M8X1.0 black button heads, I debated switching over to coarse metric but 5/16-24 was closer.

A trip to Fastenal, twice as they had to order them, netted 100 5/16-24 black button heads and a bottoming tap for a grand total of $50.91.

72 holes chased out later (two spares) and we're good to go.

Lug nuts next...


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Those look great. Where did you get the powder coating done? I’m in Phoenix. Also do you remember offhand what Torx size the bolt heads are? Any any tips for removing stuck ones?
 

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