Quest to identify hesitation and smog test prep (1 Viewer)

[IslandJ]

Been reading a few threads from the past on hesitation in FJ60's and thought I would document my voyage for prosperity.
Thanks to @Beachcomber Bernie for the focus by the way.

Classic hesitation and stumbling in my 1985 FJ60 at around 2200-2800/3000 Rpms.
When I brought the cruiser home a few years back I replaced all the vacuum lines and noticed on some of the tubes had sneaky squares cut out from the underside of the lines. Out of normal view for a visual inspection. I knew less then so I went ahead replacing lines not thinking much of it.
Some lines were routed wrong as well.
The timing was way advanced for some reason as well.
Now I have the timing in spec and all tubes routed right... I'll quadruple check that.
Capping off the EGR modulator makes the truck drive like I have never felt it drive, in the few years that I have owned it.
I assumed it was the EGR valve from what I read. Removed it and cleaned it twice with marginal improvement.
Tested the EGR valve with vacuum, tested good per the FSM.
Testing the modulator via the FSM shows that its working properly.
Working my way through the FSM, the PCV valve and the VSV for the EGR tests both are working properly.
When I got to the Air Injection system check I think I discovered part of the issue.
In the attached image you'll see at 4(a) is where i hit the speed bump.
I have air coming out of the Air bypass hose when the engine is idling and the hose is removed.
I moved onto procedure 9(b) and the air increased, just after I snapped the little plastic nipple off the blue side of the VTV.
After cussing for a second, I glued it back together with some Q-bond. VTV tested good.
Moved onto (c), air decreased but was still blowing.
I put everything back together and stopped by @RodrigzCrzr to see how his operated.
His air bypass hose did not blow at all when removed from the air cleaner.

I stopped moving forward at this point because I do have a smog check pending and I don't feel like risking any catastrophic failure from even breathing on my smog pump hoses. Hoping to have new re-pops of hoses in a few months but the donor hoses need to go back for measurements.
Anyone familiar with the ABV and ASV here? Is testing the VSV (1) at this point mute?

 

[Beachcomber Bernie]

Looks like a good, methodical approach. Sucks about the VSV snappage. To eliminate further risk, cut the small vac hose close to the component nipple to free it. Then on the bench, razor off any hose remnants. Replace the hose using a lubricant like Sil-Glyde to make the next removal easier.

Did you check the VCV under the air cleaner (PS)? pg 3-9

 

[IslandJ]

Looks like a good, methodical approach. Sucks about the VSV snappage. To eliminate further risk, cut the small vac hose close to the component nipple to free it. Then on the bench, razor off any hose remnants. Replace the hose using a lubricant like Sil-Glyde to make the next removal easier.

Did you check the VCV under the air cleaner (PS)? pg 3-9

I did not I will. Thanks

 

[Beachcomber Bernie]

Hit this guy up for spares.

 

[2mbb]

You should keep going through the testing before you start replacing parts. For example, you can see the test in section 6 for the thermo sensor. If the thermo sensor is jumpered (shorted out) the air bypass will always be on. Your thermo sensor could be shorted or maybe the PO jumpered it. The connector shown in the procedure is under the center console. If you can get to it, you can disconnect the sensor and see if it changes the air bypass.

Further on in the manual are more procedures for testing individual components.

Anyway, I doubt you will pass smog if the air bypass is always on. Air injection is needed for the catalytic converter to work properly.

 

[IslandJ]

You should keep going through the testing before you start replacing parts. For example, you can see the test in section 6 for the thermo sensor. If the thermo sensor is jumpered (shorted out) the air bypass will always be on. Your thermo sensor could be shorted or maybe the PO jumpered it. The connector shown in the procedure is under the center console. If you can get to it, you can disconnect the sensor and see if it changes the air bypass.

Further on in the manual are more procedures for testing individual components.

Anyway, I doubt you will pass smog if the air bypass is always on. Air injection is needed for the catalytic converter to work properly.

Thanks, I was just looking for the thermo sensor last night. I’ll test that today.

 

[Beachcomber Bernie]

Agreed @2mbb
Those of us with smog should be comfortable doing a full FSM review and especially before the big exam.

 

[IslandJ]

You should keep going through the testing before you start replacing parts. For example, you can see the test in section 6 for the thermo sensor. If the thermo sensor is jumpered (shorted out) the air bypass will always be on. Your thermo sensor could be shorted or maybe the PO jumpered it. The connector shown in the procedure is under the center console. If you can get to it, you can disconnect the sensor and see if it changes the air bypass.

Further on in the manual are more procedures for testing individual components.

Anyway, I doubt you will pass smog if the air bypass is always on. Air injection is needed for the catalytic converter to work properly.

Thermo sensor checked out fine or least yields similar results to disconnecting the VTV. I’ll dig into some other check procedures that don’t require removing hoses.

 

[OSS]

It's good that you're verifying the functionality of the air injection system before a smog test, but the the original post complained about hesitation. Air injection helps the cat burn off exhaust. It doesn't affect engine performance at all whether it's working correct or not. The hesitating isn't related to the AI system.
The EGR valve can test fine according to the emission's manual test criteria but still perform poorly when installed. They wear out and open too quickly when they get old.

 

[Beachcomber Bernie]

Interesting tidbit on EGR pre-opening after time.
Guess I should re-evaluate my own as well.
Thanks

 

[IslandJ]

Thanks @OSS
Looks like I have a pile of smog components coming in from the east coast so I'll definitely try the new used EGR valve and new modulator first. Ive gotten pretty quick at pulling the valve, ha.

So as far as the AI inspection...
#5 "check ABV" there was no momentarily discharge of air.
#7 Resulted in no air discharge as well.
Then Moved on to the ACV inspection.
#1 checked all good.
#2 had no compressed air coming out of it when I applied vacuum to the ASV
#3 Absolutly no pressure

I Checked the Continuity of the VSV 1 & 2 by hardwiring them to the battery but havent been able to run and Ohmmeter on them yet.

 

[fjc-man]

Jason, hesitation aside, if turns out the vanes in your air pump are worn out ( not making enough / any air pressure) you could get it rebuilt for 200 bucks. New bearings and vanes and the peace of mind it’s not going to lock up at any given moment. That’s B-Z Rebuilders 7745 Alabama St. Unit #2 Canoga Park, Ca. 91304 phone= 818 703 0821.

 

[IslandJ]

Jason, hesitation aside, if turns out the vanes in your air pump are worn out ( not making enough / any air pressure) you could get it rebuilt for 200 bucks. New bearings and vanes and the peace of mind it’s not going to lock up at any given moment. That’s B-Z Rebuilders 7745 Alabama St. Unit #2 Canoga Park, Ca. 91304 phone= 818 703 0821.

Thanks for that info.

 

[IslandJ]

This thread has definitely evolved for me... Im now considering getting the power steering pump rebuilt while im in there. B-Z rebuilders charges $195 for the smog pump and $85 for power steering pump. PS Leaks and steering is hard... and most likely why the AP is not working.

 

[Seth S]

This thread has definitely evolved for me... Im now considering getting the power steering pump rebuilt while im in there. B-Z rebuilders charges $195 for the smog pump and $85 for power steering pump. PS Leaks and steering is hard... and most likely why the AP is not working.

For $210 you could get a new pump from City Racer

City Racer LLC

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[IslandJ]

For $210 you could get a new pump from City Racer

City Racer LLC

www.cityracerllc.com

I saw that. Weighing options out.

 

[IslandJ]

@OSS , since I checked my AI system and the ASV doesnt expel compressed air and no vacuum from the valve.
Is it possible that the ASV can go bad or would it strictly be the air pump/smog pump?
thanks for all the input so far!

 

[IslandJ]

I got a multimeter and tested resistance and continuity on the VSV 1 and 2, looks good per fsm.
did the same on the OC thermo sensor and it didn’t read any resistance.
talk About opening up a can of worms.
Updated the title to be a lil more accurate.

 

[OSS]

There are members here who have passed the smog test by routing a hose from the pipe that IS blowing air, to the downstream exhaust nipple- bypassing all the complex ABV rigamarole completely

 

[IslandJ]

There are members here who have passed the smog test by routing a hose from the pipe that IS blowing air, to the downstream exhaust nipple- bypassing all the complex ABV rigamarole completely

Im having a hard time visualizing this. Attempting to do an online search for related threads. I only came across a thread on rising sun that talked about diverting the air pump up to the air injection rail.