Greetings,
I’ve recently bought a PZJ70 from 1991. The ride home through Sweden was 1500 km and during two days I found a few issues with my purchase. During that trip me and my very supportive wife fell in love with the Land Cruiser PZJ70! We were looking at old Gelandewagens but changed our minds and went for this tractor-like vehicle.
This is my first thread in this forum and it’s my first Land Cruiser ever. I have only a little experience with mechanics with trucks, I own a -78 Range Rover Classic with a newer 200tdi engine and learned basic skills through YouTube videos and a Haynes manual. I don’t do welding, I don’t have a garage, no press for bushings and no air compressor. I’m a rookie and a bit confused because I only have the pdf for the 1pz engine (RM 172E) and the manual for the gearbox and transferbox, brakes and some more (RM 315E)
This car has done almost 210 000 km, the history is quite unknown. The timing belt was changed at 180 000km but that was year 2008 so I suppose it’s old. The car has a Toyota brand snorkel and a winchbumper with a T-Max winch (wire and wireless controller). Not sure about the strength. The car have worn 33inch AT tyres but the seller used 35inch M/T tires with bead lock rims. I’ve seen some stickers suggesting the car had sponsors and the car might have been modified during its life.
When I arrived home I flushed the coolant 4 times using a coolant cleaning product and the system seemed totally clean suggesting the car got serviced. The airfilter looked new. I changed the differential oil in the front and the old oil looked brownish, as did the oil in the transfer gear box but the oil in the transmission was more dark. I’m waiting to get a oil filter and a the tool for lifting the valve for the valve adjustment service. The engine have some discrete ticking from the valves..at least I think..But my measurements will tell. The last owner claim the oil was changed less then 1000 km ago.
Do you have any tips for what kind of oil brand to use for the 1PZ?
The last owner rebuilt the rear axle and said that the rear axle has the code k085 and has a cable operated diff-locker. However the cable is damaged and removed but the lever is still there and the mechanism at the diff-housing is there and I can with some force activate/deactivate it if I crawl under the car. The front axle also has a cable operated diff-locker and that one engage and disengage by pulling and pushing the lever from inside. When I drove home from the buyer the rear differential started to leak some small amount of oil from the diff pinion seal. Then me and my wife had driven 200km and had 1300 km left and I got worried but got comforted by my wife asking if I could just wipe off the oil with a towel and keep on driving
I then realized I had to man up and get our Toyota home without destroying the supposedly new rear differential. First I thought it was due to a vibrating rear propeller-shaft due to neglected greasing of the shaft and the u-joints but they seem solid and does not move when I shake them. Could the sealing start leaking because too much oil in the rear differential was used? When I opened the level-bolt oil poured out even after the diff started to leak so the diff was perhaps filled too much?
In any case I plan to change the seal if I’m sure I get the correct one.
I need to rebuild the swivels because it seems to be some grease or oil leaking from both of the swivel houses as there is some vibration in the steering wheel so I think the swivel needs new bearings. How can I find out what kind of axle I have in the front? See the photos. What Repair Manual covers my axles?
Did the PZJ70 have cable operated diff lockers from factory or are these from another car?
Can I buy a new cable to the rear diff lock somewhere?
Could someone explain what fully floating axles vs semi-floating axles mean?
Even though I have limited off road experience this car will go off road into the pine-forest to haul in the mooses me and my hunting team get and I’ve heard that a locked front axle can be devastating for the C.V joints- do you have any tips for stronger front axle shafts or other types of upgrading? I won’t be doing this very soon though if I dont brake something of course.
All of the bushes in the suspension seems dry. The shock absorbers seems old and has the text “serious off road” so I reckon those are aftermarket. The leaf springs are a bit rusty. Some ends of the u-bolts are bent due to hitting rocks or what not. What do I need to think about when buying new leaf springs and shock absorbers. I want at least 33 inch wheels in the forest to get the ground clearance because in this sub-artic climate there moss is soft and there is a lot of wet mires that I need to conquer to get to the fallen moose.
Where can I find the model code for the gear and transfer box? I tried looking around under the car when I changed oil but can’t find it.
Forgive me if I seem confused or inexperienced but that exactly what I am.
Last but not least there is a rattling sound often but not always when gearing from second to third and applying torque and sometimes when I slow down, I think it’s coming from the bell-house area and even before I bought the car I read that the dual mass fly-wheel was a problem so after fixing the leaking swivels I must pay a proper mechanic to change flywheel and clutch assembly.
Tips from where to buy?
A French website called euro4x4parts wants 1816 Euro (today that’s 2070 US dollars)
There is a small leak from the transfer box (one or three drops when I stop) and somewhere from the steering but I come back to that later)
Images:
1: left swivel
2: cable locking mechanism front
3: diff with front prop-shaft
4: right swivel
5: axle front view
Hope to have some answers!
Best regards from Sweden
I’ve recently bought a PZJ70 from 1991. The ride home through Sweden was 1500 km and during two days I found a few issues with my purchase. During that trip me and my very supportive wife fell in love with the Land Cruiser PZJ70! We were looking at old Gelandewagens but changed our minds and went for this tractor-like vehicle.
This is my first thread in this forum and it’s my first Land Cruiser ever. I have only a little experience with mechanics with trucks, I own a -78 Range Rover Classic with a newer 200tdi engine and learned basic skills through YouTube videos and a Haynes manual. I don’t do welding, I don’t have a garage, no press for bushings and no air compressor. I’m a rookie and a bit confused because I only have the pdf for the 1pz engine (RM 172E) and the manual for the gearbox and transferbox, brakes and some more (RM 315E)
This car has done almost 210 000 km, the history is quite unknown. The timing belt was changed at 180 000km but that was year 2008 so I suppose it’s old. The car has a Toyota brand snorkel and a winchbumper with a T-Max winch (wire and wireless controller). Not sure about the strength. The car have worn 33inch AT tyres but the seller used 35inch M/T tires with bead lock rims. I’ve seen some stickers suggesting the car had sponsors and the car might have been modified during its life.
When I arrived home I flushed the coolant 4 times using a coolant cleaning product and the system seemed totally clean suggesting the car got serviced. The airfilter looked new. I changed the differential oil in the front and the old oil looked brownish, as did the oil in the transfer gear box but the oil in the transmission was more dark. I’m waiting to get a oil filter and a the tool for lifting the valve for the valve adjustment service. The engine have some discrete ticking from the valves..at least I think..But my measurements will tell. The last owner claim the oil was changed less then 1000 km ago.
Do you have any tips for what kind of oil brand to use for the 1PZ?
The last owner rebuilt the rear axle and said that the rear axle has the code k085 and has a cable operated diff-locker. However the cable is damaged and removed but the lever is still there and the mechanism at the diff-housing is there and I can with some force activate/deactivate it if I crawl under the car. The front axle also has a cable operated diff-locker and that one engage and disengage by pulling and pushing the lever from inside. When I drove home from the buyer the rear differential started to leak some small amount of oil from the diff pinion seal. Then me and my wife had driven 200km and had 1300 km left and I got worried but got comforted by my wife asking if I could just wipe off the oil with a towel and keep on driving
I then realized I had to man up and get our Toyota home without destroying the supposedly new rear differential. First I thought it was due to a vibrating rear propeller-shaft due to neglected greasing of the shaft and the u-joints but they seem solid and does not move when I shake them. Could the sealing start leaking because too much oil in the rear differential was used? When I opened the level-bolt oil poured out even after the diff started to leak so the diff was perhaps filled too much?In any case I plan to change the seal if I’m sure I get the correct one.
I need to rebuild the swivels because it seems to be some grease or oil leaking from both of the swivel houses as there is some vibration in the steering wheel so I think the swivel needs new bearings. How can I find out what kind of axle I have in the front? See the photos. What Repair Manual covers my axles?
Did the PZJ70 have cable operated diff lockers from factory or are these from another car?
Can I buy a new cable to the rear diff lock somewhere?
Could someone explain what fully floating axles vs semi-floating axles mean?
Even though I have limited off road experience this car will go off road into the pine-forest to haul in the mooses me and my hunting team get and I’ve heard that a locked front axle can be devastating for the C.V joints- do you have any tips for stronger front axle shafts or other types of upgrading? I won’t be doing this very soon though if I dont brake something of course.
All of the bushes in the suspension seems dry. The shock absorbers seems old and has the text “serious off road” so I reckon those are aftermarket. The leaf springs are a bit rusty. Some ends of the u-bolts are bent due to hitting rocks or what not. What do I need to think about when buying new leaf springs and shock absorbers. I want at least 33 inch wheels in the forest to get the ground clearance because in this sub-artic climate there moss is soft and there is a lot of wet mires that I need to conquer to get to the fallen moose.
Where can I find the model code for the gear and transfer box? I tried looking around under the car when I changed oil but can’t find it.
Forgive me if I seem confused or inexperienced but that exactly what I am.
Last but not least there is a rattling sound often but not always when gearing from second to third and applying torque and sometimes when I slow down, I think it’s coming from the bell-house area and even before I bought the car I read that the dual mass fly-wheel was a problem so after fixing the leaking swivels I must pay a proper mechanic to change flywheel and clutch assembly.
Tips from where to buy?
A French website called euro4x4parts wants 1816 Euro (today that’s 2070 US dollars)
There is a small leak from the transfer box (one or three drops when I stop) and somewhere from the steering but I come back to that later)
Images:
1: left swivel
2: cable locking mechanism front
3: diff with front prop-shaft
4: right swivel
5: axle front view
Hope to have some answers!
Best regards from Sweden
Last edited:
