PZJ70 questions and tips

Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
Greetings,
I’ve recently bought a PZJ70 from 1991. The ride home through Sweden was 1500 km and during two days I found a few issues with my purchase. During that trip me and my very supportive wife fell in love with the Land Cruiser PZJ70! We were looking at old Gelandewagens but changed our minds and went for this tractor-like vehicle.
This is my first thread in this forum and it’s my first Land Cruiser ever. I have only a little experience with mechanics with trucks, I own a -78 Range Rover Classic with a newer 200tdi engine and learned basic skills through YouTube videos and a Haynes manual. I don’t do welding, I don’t have a garage, no press for bushings and no air compressor. I’m a rookie and a bit confused because I only have the pdf for the 1pz engine (RM 172E) and the manual for the gearbox and transferbox, brakes and some more (RM 315E)

This car has done almost 210 000 km, the history is quite unknown. The timing belt was changed at 180 000km but that was year 2008 so I suppose it’s old. The car has a Toyota brand snorkel and a winchbumper with a T-Max winch (wire and wireless controller). Not sure about the strength. The car have worn 33inch AT tyres but the seller used 35inch M/T tires with bead lock rims. I’ve seen some stickers suggesting the car had sponsors and the car might have been modified during its life.

When I arrived home I flushed the coolant 4 times using a coolant cleaning product and the system seemed totally clean suggesting the car got serviced. The airfilter looked new. I changed the differential oil in the front and the old oil looked brownish, as did the oil in the transfer gear box but the oil in the transmission was more dark. I’m waiting to get a oil filter and a the tool for lifting the valve for the valve adjustment service. The engine have some discrete ticking from the valves..at least I think..But my measurements will tell. The last owner claim the oil was changed less then 1000 km ago.

Do you have any tips for what kind of oil brand to use for the 1PZ?

The last owner rebuilt the rear axle and said that the rear axle has the code k085 and has a cable operated diff-locker. However the cable is damaged and removed but the lever is still there and the mechanism at the diff-housing is there and I can with some force activate/deactivate it if I crawl under the car. The front axle also has a cable operated diff-locker and that one engage and disengage by pulling and pushing the lever from inside. When I drove home from the buyer the rear differential started to leak some small amount of oil from the diff pinion seal. Then me and my wife had driven 200km and had 1300 km left and I got worried but got comforted by my wife asking if I could just wipe off the oil with a towel and keep on driving:) I then realized I had to man up and get our Toyota home without destroying the supposedly new rear differential. First I thought it was due to a vibrating rear propeller-shaft due to neglected greasing of the shaft and the u-joints but they seem solid and does not move when I shake them. Could the sealing start leaking because too much oil in the rear differential was used? When I opened the level-bolt oil poured out even after the diff started to leak so the diff was perhaps filled too much?
In any case I plan to change the seal if I’m sure I get the correct one.

I need to rebuild the swivels because it seems to be some grease or oil leaking from both of the swivel houses as there is some vibration in the steering wheel so I think the swivel needs new bearings. How can I find out what kind of axle I have in the front? See the photos. What Repair Manual covers my axles?

Did the PZJ70 have cable operated diff lockers from factory or are these from another car?

Can I buy a new cable to the rear diff lock somewhere?

Could someone explain what fully floating axles vs semi-floating axles mean?

Even though I have limited off road experience this car will go off road into the pine-forest to haul in the mooses me and my hunting team get and I’ve heard that a locked front axle can be devastating for the C.V joints- do you have any tips for stronger front axle shafts or other types of upgrading? I won’t be doing this very soon though if I dont brake something of course.

All of the bushes in the suspension seems dry. The shock absorbers seems old and has the text “serious off road” so I reckon those are aftermarket. The leaf springs are a bit rusty. Some ends of the u-bolts are bent due to hitting rocks or what not. What do I need to think about when buying new leaf springs and shock absorbers. I want at least 33 inch wheels in the forest to get the ground clearance because in this sub-artic climate there moss is soft and there is a lot of wet mires that I need to conquer to get to the fallen moose.

Where can I find the model code for the gear and transfer box? I tried looking around under the car when I changed oil but can’t find it.

Forgive me if I seem confused or inexperienced but that exactly what I am.

Last but not least there is a rattling sound often but not always when gearing from second to third and applying torque and sometimes when I slow down, I think it’s coming from the bell-house area and even before I bought the car I read that the dual mass fly-wheel was a problem so after fixing the leaking swivels I must pay a proper mechanic to change flywheel and clutch assembly.
Tips from where to buy?
A French website called euro4x4parts wants 1816 Euro (today that’s 2070 US dollars)

There is a small leak from the transfer box (one or three drops when I stop) and somewhere from the steering but I come back to that later)

Images:
1: left swivel
2: cable locking mechanism front
3: diff with front prop-shaft
4: right swivel
5: axle front view

Hope to have some answers!
Best regards from Sweden

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Last edited:
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
Thanks CharlesHS,
I’ll read through his thread. If anyone has answers for some of my questions above feel free to answer
 

coldtaco

 
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2004
Messages
2,717
Location
Anchorage, AK
Just do a complete service for starters. Sounds like you have started. Get a complete knuckle rebuild kit, probably new suspension(or maybe shocks at least) nice find on the locker axles, those are factory Toyota ones. As to new cables I don’t think they exist anymore, I was looking for some a long time ago. My plan for the broken one of mine is to try a generic cable setup for industrial applications. Don’t forget pictures, every one enjoys pictures
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
GTSSportCoupe: Thank you very much, I’m going on a honeymoon trip to Italy with my wife and now I have some literature for the trip!

ColdTaco: Thanks! A new wire and a stable end to connect to the locker mechanism itself should not be impossible to make because the front is there and is working so that could act like a template. I won’t be doing this very soon because during this hunting season I’ll simply crawl under the car and lock the rear when heading into the forest.

About the axles itself and spare parts for the swivel and rebuild, the PZJ70 didn’t have cable operating difflocks, I assume I have J6x-serie axles then?
 

coldtaco

 
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2004
Messages
2,717
Location
Anchorage, AK
GTSSportCoupe: Thank you very much, I’m going on a honeymoon trip to Italy with my wife and now I have some literature for the trip!

ColdTaco: Thanks! A new wire and a stable end to connect to the locker mechanism itself should not be impossible to make because the front is there and is working so that could act like a template. I won’t be doing this very soon because during this hunting season I’ll simply crawl under the car and lock the rear when heading into the forest.

About the axles itself and spare parts for the swivel and rebuild, the PZJ70 didn’t have cable operating difflocks, I assume I have J6x-serie axles then?
Cable lockers on 70 series was a factory option, but these are the same I believe as the 60 series except for the pull levers. As to if any PZ 70 Models did come from the factory with cable lockers I would not know. I have seen some PZ-75’s that also came with cable lockers. At some point Toyota switched to electric but don’t know when.
 

coldtaco

 
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2004
Messages
2,717
Location
Anchorage, AK
are the wires cut off on the rear axle too? If so, then it might be that those axles did not come originally with that truck new. are there any dash lights indicating axle locks?
 

clintnz

 
Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
332
Location
Rotoiti, New Zealand
Greetings,
I’ve recently bought a PZJ70 from 1991. The ride home through Sweden was 1500 km and during two days I found a few issues with my purchase. During that trip me and my very supportive wife fell in love with the Land Cruiser PZJ70! We were looking at old Gelandewagens but changed our minds and went for this tractor-like vehicle.
This is my first thread in this forum and it’s my first Land Cruiser ever. I have only a little experience with mechanics with trucks, I own a -78 Range Rover Classic with a newer 200tdi engine and learned basic skills through YouTube videos and a Haynes manual. I don’t do welding, I don’t have a garage, no press for bushings and no air compressor. I’m a rookie and a bit confused because I only have the pdf for the 1pz engine (RM 172E) and the manual for the gearbox and transferbox, brakes and some more (RM 315E)

This car has done almost 210 000 km, the history is quite unknown. The timing belt was changed at 180 000km but that was year 2008 so I suppose it’s old. The car has a Toyota brand snorkel and a winchbumper with a T-Max winch (wire and wireless controller). Not sure about the strength. The car have worn 33inch AT tyres but the seller used 35inch M/T tires with bead lock rims. I’ve seen some stickers suggesting the car had sponsors and the car might have been modified during its life.

When I arrived home I flushed the coolant 4 times using a coolant cleaning product and the system seemed totally clean suggesting the car got serviced. The airfilter looked new. I changed the differential oil in the front and the old oil looked brownish, as did the oil in the transfer gear box but the oil in the transmission was more dark. I’m waiting to get a oil filter and a the tool for lifting the valve for the valve adjustment service. The engine have some discrete ticking from the valves..at least I think..But my measurements will tell. The last owner claim the oil was changed less then 1000 km ago but I want new oil because he also told me other things.

Do you have any tips for what kind of oil brand to use for the 1PZ?

The last owner rebuilt the rear axle and claim that the rear axle has the code k085 and has a cable operated diff-locker. However the cable is damaged and removed but the lever is still there and the mechanism at the diff-housing is there and I can with some force activate/deactivate it if I crawl under the car. The front axle also has a cable operated diff-locker and that one engage and disengage by pulling and pushing the lever from inside. When I drove home from the buyer the rear differential started to leak some small amount of oil from the diff pinion seal. Then me and my wife had driven 200km and had 1300 km left and I got worried but got comforted by my wife asking if I could just wipe off the oil with a towel and keep on driving:) I then realized I had to man up and get our Toyota home without destroying the supposedly new rear differential. First I thought it was due to a vibrating rear propeller-shaft due to neglected greasing of the shaft and the u-joints but they seem solid and does not move when I shake them. Could the sealing start leaking because too much oil in the rear differential was used? When I opened the level-bolt oil poured out even after the diff started to leak so the diff was perhaps filled too much?
In any case I plan to change the seal if I’m sure I get the correct one.

I need to rebuild the swivels because it seems to be some grease or oil leaking from both of the swivel houses as there is some vibration in the steering wheel so I think the swivel needs new bearings. How can I find out what kind of axle I have in the front? See the photos. What Repair Manual covers my axles?

Did the PZJ70 have cable operated diff lockers from factory or are these from another car?

Can I buy a new cable to the rear diff lock somewhere?

Could someone explain what fully floating axles vs semi-floating axles mean?

Even though I have limited off road experience this car will go off road into the pine-forest to haul in the mooses me and my hunting team get and I’ve heard that a locked front axle can be devastating for the C.V joints- do you have any tips for stronger front axle shafts or other types of upgrading? I won’t be doing this very soon though if I dont brake something of course.

All of the bushes in the suspension seems dry. The shock absorbers seems old and has the text “serious off road” so I reckon those are aftermarket. The leaf springs are a bit rusty. Some ends of the u-bolts are bent due to hitting rocks or what not. What do I need to think about when buying new leaf springs and shock absorbers. I want at least 33 inch wheels in the forest to get the ground clearance because in this sub-artic climate there moss is soft and there is a lot of wet mires that I need to conquer to get to the fallen moose.

Where can I find the model code for the gear and transfer box? I tried looking around under the car when I changed oil but can’t find it.

Forgive me if I seem confused or inexperienced but that exactly what I am.

Last but not least there is a rattling sound often but not always when gearing from second to third and applying torque and sometimes when I slow down, I think it’s coming from the bell-house area and even before I bought the car I read that the dual mass fly-wheel was a problem so after fixing the leaking swivels I must pay a proper mechanic to change flywheel and clutch assembly.
Tips from where to buy?
A French website called euro4x4parts wants 1816 Euro (today that’s 2070 US dollars)

There is a small leak from the transfer box (one or three drops when I stop) and somewhere from the steering but I come back to that later)

Images:
1: left swivel
2: cable locking mechanism front
3: diff with front prop-shaft
4: right swivel
5: axle front view

Hope to have some answers!
Best regards from Sweden

View attachment 1764909

View attachment 1764910

View attachment 1764911

View attachment 1764912

View attachment 1764913
The oil leaking from the front axle swivel joints is probably diff oil coming through the inner axle seals so make sure you get those along with your swivel rebuild kit. It's a great idea to do that rebuild on a higher mileage truck even if things aren't very worn, as the kits aren't usually too expensive & you get to check & lube everything as you go, brake calipers, locking hubs, wheel bearings etc.

If you are getting vibration through the steering also check for unbalanced or bent wheels & bad tyres. Also check/replace the steering linkage rod ends & steering damper.

You are right to be careful of your front CV's with a locker. There are stronger CV's available for some 70 series but axle widths can vary, I would measure up your CV's & axle shafts when you rebuild your front knuckles then you can check the dimensions before ordering anything.

The codes for the engine, gearbox etc are on the VIN plate on the firewall in the engine bay.

Full floating vs semi floating? Google it. Full floating is stronger.

Cheers
Clint
 

JuanJ

 
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
1,234
Hello,

Welcome to the madness.

There were quite a few design changes between 1990 and 1992, cable lockers one of them. Toyota went from cable to electrical.

If your truck had factory cable lockers, there should be a couple of cables running from the dash into the driver's seat. Your hood/bonnet opening lever should share its mount with the fuel tank lid opening handle. Is the locker actuator lever on the lower left corner of the dash, driver's side?

Last but not least, is there a lockers light in the rpm gauge?

As mentioned above, K085 indicates a limited slip differential rather than lockers.

Yes, the front locker can be hard on the CV. However, the rear locker will be enough for most of your off road wheeling.





Juan
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
Thanks for all cements and input and yes JuanJ I realised I’ve opened the “Pandoras Box” by getting into older off-road trucks with almost no history but I’m so exited:) when reading the RM183E manual the swivel/knuckles seems a bit more complicated then on Rover-axles but something tells me they are more sturdy as well.

“there should be a couple of cables running from the dash into the driver's seat. Your hood/bonnet opening lever should share its mount with the fuel tank lid opening handle. Is the locker actuator lever on the lower left corner of the dash, driver's side?”

Yes the actuator levers for the front and rear difflock are next to the bonnet-opening lever on the lower left side of the steering wheel. I’ll look more and post photos when I come home from the trip because I’m on the airport on my way to a trip atm

ClintNZ: Yes new tires is a must along the way, as well as a new seal for both pinion diff ends. The leak is very minor atm but should be addressed. In November its time for the annual inspection and I also feel that new rotors and pads for the frontbrakes should be done. The last owner claimed he installed new cylinders for the rear drum-brakes which is good. I’ll be driving very slow and calm and do some milder off-road before that. About the vibration, I haven’t jacked up the car and jerked the wheels etc so it could be anything, the wheels fitted on this vehicle was worn 33inch wheels and I’ve only driven them home and from that it’s difficult to tell if they are worn unevenly. There are 20mm spacers on as well.

Fj73Texas you are correct about the code, the 05 was the limited switch according to some google-searching ending up on a FAQ for Landcruisers:)

Cold-taco: yes the wires are cut and I can’t see any lights except 4wd. The car does not have a tacometer nor voltage gauge or oil pressure, just speed and motor temp.

Another question, I’ll give you photos later on. A leak from the power assisted steering, where does it usually come from? It’s not much , added 50 ml of oil when inspecting it.
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
1B7C7FBE-91E7-4759-9231-FFDA5A0DE9B3.jpeg
ClintNZ: ”The oil leaking from the front axle swivel joints is probably diff oil coming through the inner axle seals”

Ah yes I realize what you mean, the oil from the axle-housing gets into the swivelhousing due to bad seals. I’ll replace them aswell.
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
Gaup: It is! Do you have additional info about the car? He didnt know if the axels came with the car originaly or if they are from another car model.

The car will spend its life above the arctic circle instead of in county of Skåne:)
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Sweden
Thanks a lot, will those fit the axles? The car didn’t leak during my short test-drive but the 1500km drive home did it’s work with old dried seals and bushings I suppose.
 

Gaup

 
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Messages
82
Location
SWEDEN
Hi think there ar the originals on that truck front axel is the one with 8" crownwheel and wire difflock and think Holmboe told me that there was a fullfloting rear axel .. Holmboe swapt a HZJ75 for my green BJ42 a wile back dont now special much about your car..
for the wire think you have to look down under now there was a guy that make wires for the diff but have lost the information when my old computer died on me.. Try to mail terraintamer for info abut that..
 

Gaup

 
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Messages
82
Location
SWEDEN
Thanks a lot, will those fit the axles? The car didn’t leak during my short test-drive but the 1500km drive home did it’s work with old dried seals and bushings I suppose.
Yes they will fit and its god to service the axel when they start leaking the hypoid oil washes away the grease in the birfs..
And if you have to replace the birfs so look att these Longfield 30 Spline Birfield/Axle Super Set (Long Spline E-Locker) (FJ 40), Gun Drilled - Trail Gear they will fit your axel AND the wire difflock
 
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