Pyrometer - Pre or Post Turbo?

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I had a chance to visit Banks Power system on a weekend tour.

I spoke with the head R&D guy about this very issue. He was adamant about putting the Pyro Pre Turbo. His seen drops of up to 500F between the exhaust manifold and post turbo exhaust pipe.

My moneys on the guy who does this everyday for a living...
 
cruiser_guy said:
A clamp on simply measures pipe temperature, like I care how hot my exhaust pipe is?!? That would be the worst choice by far. Almost not worth having in my opinion.

Charles, the clamp on type being talked about here uses the same probe that goes into the manifold. The suppliers typically have fittings for 3 installation methods in the same kit, all using the probe (clamp on, welded bung, tapped manifold).

Pre turbo is undoubtedly the best location, but if we're getting elitist here and you're talking doing it the right way you should place one probe at each manifold, and one post turbo. Anything else is simply less then, and I don't know why you would bother...

On a serious note: If you are going to be chipping your truck, maxing the fuel, maxing the air flow possible, regularly dumping of unburnt fuel out the pipe from light to light as you show off to the world, you should probably go pre turbo. It really is the best location.

If you have the engine out and apart, or off the road for some work, turbo out for rebuild...etc, it probably is best to tap the manifold at the same time.

In other situations, drilling and tapping the exhaust pipe (as high as possible), then clamping the probe and using 900F-1000F as your max sustained (talking moderately tuned Toyota diesel) will likely work for you...till you have to get things apart, and at that time drill and tap the manifold.

imho...till you can do it the "right" way and tap the manifold, post turbo is useful as a gauge, datum, and is much better then nothing. I am comfortable with and am not planning on moving my post turbo clamped on probe until I have the turbo off, or some such other reason to get things apart on that side.

Anyone here run pre and post on a Toyota diesel engine to see what the difference in temps and response times are?

gb
 
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I prefer to use 1150 F as my sustained upper-limit for pre-turbo EGT's. For very short spikes, I accept up to 1200 F; however, I'll usually quickly use my splitter and downshift 1/2 a gear, bringing RPM's up, boost up, and EGT's down. But that's just me. I know for certain that my Cummins is tough and I don't try to delude myself that the Toyota diesels are any tougher. I'm conservative and I've yet to have a failure.
 
Tapage said:
Wayne gota make a setup as this .. pre and post Pyro ..
i picked up the second pyro gauge for the PZ yesterday and as soon as i can squeese the time in i will get it installed and give a report of before and after readings...
 
Greg_B said:
Charles, the clamp on type being talked about here uses the same probe that goes into the manifold. The suppliers typically have fittings for 3 installation methods in the same kit, all using the probe (clamp on, welded bung, tapped manifold).

In that case it really doesn't matter how the probe is held in place. I was under the impression that it would avoid a hole in the pipe and the possible failure that Wayne talks about with the probe breaking. In the business I was in in Canada we did use a clamp on type probe to measure pipe temperatures in heating and ventilation since we did not want to leave expensive gauges or probes behind.
 

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