- Thread starter
- #41
They are 60 wheels and they are new super swamper 33's. Gonna switch the rims back to original steelies with hubcaps and gonna match the same onto my M101
Pumpkin 40 Roller paint job
- Thread starter 40Flipper
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #43
Definitely
i have done the roller paint thing before, and i have always been pleasantly surprised how it turns out.
the secret is choosing the correct color.
congrats!
the secret is choosing the correct color.
congrats!
- Thread starter
- #45
Coat 2 done today!!!
Blew off the afternoon for work and got me a second coat on. Definitely an improvement.
The first coat I hadn't thinned enough and there were quite a few lines and spots where the paint never self-leveled. I had thinned it about 20% with mineral spirits. Looked like I was going to have to sand a bunch of it due to the lines.
Instead of sanding, I figured I would thin the paint more and the self leveling would fill in the lines. Not rocket science but I was happy I was right. I cleaned the truck thoroughly. This time I did exactly 33% mineral spirits with the paint. It was definitely more diluted. 30% would seem to be ideal.
I've read more roller threads outside of MUD and one mentioned to do only on small section at a time. I did this anyway since the paint was running more than last time. I would roller one section then get the drips with a foam brush. The thinner consistency allowed me to gently drag the brush over the thousands of bubbles in the paint and effectively smooth them out. The first coat was too thick and the bubbles were tougher to pop without leaving heavier lines behind with the brush.
The drips weren't too bad and cutting them with the foam brush worked beautifully. By the end I was almost not using the roller and just the brush to save a step.
All in all it looks great. Extremely happy and the "oh s*** what have I done" phase is gone.
Wet-sanding 101 is next. Hopefully tomorrow pm. I have the heater in the garage cranking away so maybe some tonight!!!
Blew off the afternoon for work and got me a second coat on. Definitely an improvement.
The first coat I hadn't thinned enough and there were quite a few lines and spots where the paint never self-leveled. I had thinned it about 20% with mineral spirits. Looked like I was going to have to sand a bunch of it due to the lines.
Instead of sanding, I figured I would thin the paint more and the self leveling would fill in the lines. Not rocket science but I was happy I was right. I cleaned the truck thoroughly. This time I did exactly 33% mineral spirits with the paint. It was definitely more diluted. 30% would seem to be ideal.
I've read more roller threads outside of MUD and one mentioned to do only on small section at a time. I did this anyway since the paint was running more than last time. I would roller one section then get the drips with a foam brush. The thinner consistency allowed me to gently drag the brush over the thousands of bubbles in the paint and effectively smooth them out. The first coat was too thick and the bubbles were tougher to pop without leaving heavier lines behind with the brush.
The drips weren't too bad and cutting them with the foam brush worked beautifully. By the end I was almost not using the roller and just the brush to save a step.
All in all it looks great. Extremely happy and the "oh s*** what have I done" phase is gone.
Wet-sanding 101 is next. Hopefully tomorrow pm. I have the heater in the garage cranking away so maybe some tonight!!!
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- Thread starter
- #46
the pics don't do it jusice but I'm barely going to have to wet-sand. It settled very smoothly 
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Nice work... How many more coats?
Lookin good!
Lookin good!
- Thread starter
- #48
At least 2 more and possibly 4 more. Gonna wet-sand a little and see how it looks. 4 might do the trick. I figger once it gets scratched up I'll be adding coats down the road anyway.
- Thread starter
- #49
Wet-sanding is a biatch but still fun. Spent an hour wet-sanding the hood with 600 grit. Had some serious orange peel due to my first coat being too thick. Should have the whole truck wet-sanded by Sunday
First post to the forum.
I have practiced this using rustoleum on my 1956 rear panel. It worked really well for the most part. I am picking up my first FJ40 tomorrow and plan on using the same method. Sort of practice to see if I want to do on my 56 Ford.
Couple things for those out there thinking about it.
#1: Red is very hard to do. That is what I chose for my practice panel and you see every mistake in Red. I love red but the amount of wet sanding necessary to get it smooth to the eye may be to much.
#2: At least with red you need to do more than use polishing compound and wax. I used a cheap miguaras scratch remover and it brought some color back to it. I just bought some 3M glaze though and am hoping for that show shine. Of course these are FJ's so probably not needed.
#3: You can blow on the bubbels or go over them with a roller again. I prefer to blow but it can tire you out.
#4: When you are completely done let your paint sit for about a week. Some spots will have bubbles you didn't really see and they will pop and spread leaving divits (very few of them 4-5 over a panel but still just so you know). If you let it sit for a week then sand them out one more time then polish, glaze and wax you will have one hell of a looker.
By the way your interior looks great. I can't wait to get started. Well first I need a floor (COMPLETLY RUSTED OUT
Can't wait to see it finished.
I have practiced this using rustoleum on my 1956 rear panel. It worked really well for the most part. I am picking up my first FJ40 tomorrow and plan on using the same method. Sort of practice to see if I want to do on my 56 Ford.
Couple things for those out there thinking about it.
#1: Red is very hard to do. That is what I chose for my practice panel and you see every mistake in Red. I love red but the amount of wet sanding necessary to get it smooth to the eye may be to much.
#2: At least with red you need to do more than use polishing compound and wax. I used a cheap miguaras scratch remover and it brought some color back to it. I just bought some 3M glaze though and am hoping for that show shine. Of course these are FJ's so probably not needed.
#3: You can blow on the bubbels or go over them with a roller again. I prefer to blow but it can tire you out.
#4: When you are completely done let your paint sit for about a week. Some spots will have bubbles you didn't really see and they will pop and spread leaving divits (very few of them 4-5 over a panel but still just so you know). If you let it sit for a week then sand them out one more time then polish, glaze and wax you will have one hell of a looker.
By the way your interior looks great. I can't wait to get started. Well first I need a floor (COMPLETLY RUSTED OUT
Can't wait to see it finished.
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks for the great post!!!
Got all the wet sanding done. It was a tough go with all the small corners and seams. Afterwards I wiped it all down with mineral spirits. Cleaned up nicely. Had a ton of orange peel but I have the mixture down now to 30% MS and it's perfect.
Actually got another coat of paint on it too. Looks much like the photos posted above. I'll be doing another coat of paint during the week and more wet-sanding next weekend. I'll be taking some days off during the holidays that the wife has to work so I should have all the coats done just after X-mas. Then to buffing and polishing.
I still have a ton of small parts plus the doors and the soft-top bows to do. I'll have to re-spray the interior black again as well but that's easy.
Having fun!!!
Addicted: put some pics up of your 56 and your 40!!!
Got all the wet sanding done. It was a tough go with all the small corners and seams. Afterwards I wiped it all down with mineral spirits. Cleaned up nicely. Had a ton of orange peel but I have the mixture down now to 30% MS and it's perfect.
Actually got another coat of paint on it too. Looks much like the photos posted above. I'll be doing another coat of paint during the week and more wet-sanding next weekend. I'll be taking some days off during the holidays that the wife has to work so I should have all the coats done just after X-mas. Then to buffing and polishing.
I still have a ton of small parts plus the doors and the soft-top bows to do. I'll have to re-spray the interior black again as well but that's easy.
Having fun!!!
Addicted: put some pics up of your 56 and your 40!!!
I will try to give more info as I go along on my project. As soon as I get some pictures I will be sure to post them.
As far as the pics of mine I will just add a link to another forum (Mercedes) that has my 56 build up so I don't hijack this thread as I'm sure it will be a good one people will want to read. This is the most recent page. If you get bored you can go back to the beggining.
http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2169&page=11
This was just a test panel and was practicing my technique. Hence the yellow on the bottom.
Anyway great work and I would love to see what your pumpkin orange looks like out in the real light. It seems yellowish and light in most of the inside pictures. When I think of pumpkin I think of the older Mercedes but it was a much darker color. None the less you are going to have one great looking stand out cruiser when you are done.
Dont forget to keep us updated. I know I am standing by.
As far as the pics of mine I will just add a link to another forum (Mercedes) that has my 56 build up so I don't hijack this thread as I'm sure it will be a good one people will want to read. This is the most recent page. If you get bored you can go back to the beggining.
http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2169&page=11
This was just a test panel and was practicing my technique. Hence the yellow on the bottom.
Anyway great work and I would love to see what your pumpkin orange looks like out in the real light. It seems yellowish and light in most of the inside pictures. When I think of pumpkin I think of the older Mercedes but it was a much darker color. None the less you are going to have one great looking stand out cruiser when you are done.
Dont forget to keep us updated. I know I am standing by.
- Thread starter
- #53
Fourth coat just finished tonight. Should have 5th and 6th one done by Sunday nite.
I have some big orange peel going now. Anyone have a reason why I shouldn't just do the 5th and 6th instead of wet-sanding as the next step? The coats I'm putting on aren't that thick and my arm will fall off anyway from the amount of wet-sanding needed. Am I dumb? Thinking sanding once will do me good. maybe do the 5th then sand then do the last coat?
I have some big orange peel going now. Anyone have a reason why I shouldn't just do the 5th and 6th instead of wet-sanding as the next step? The coats I'm putting on aren't that thick and my arm will fall off anyway from the amount of wet-sanding needed. Am I dumb? Thinking sanding once will do me good. maybe do the 5th then sand then do the last coat?
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thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
after last coat sand and then clear?
Yes,
With my test panel I did not sand after every 2 coats. Well I did but it was only to knock off the dust that landed on it while drying and to get any bubbles that were left.
I find that painting over it, the valleys will fill and the orange peel is no deeper or worse than before. It will take a lot of sanding on the final coat though. I'm told some rubbing compound will work but that seems a bit to rough to me. Depends on how bad it is I guess. I would just go over it wetsanding then poslishing compound and then glazing compound. I do agree though your arm will probably fall off from the wetsanding. Even though it is your last coat I probably wouldn't go any higher than 1500. Maybe even a 1200 or lower then go over with 1500 one more time.
I'm no expert though I've only done one panel. Just my thoughts.
With my test panel I did not sand after every 2 coats. Well I did but it was only to knock off the dust that landed on it while drying and to get any bubbles that were left.
I find that painting over it, the valleys will fill and the orange peel is no deeper or worse than before. It will take a lot of sanding on the final coat though. I'm told some rubbing compound will work but that seems a bit to rough to me. Depends on how bad it is I guess. I would just go over it wetsanding then poslishing compound and then glazing compound. I do agree though your arm will probably fall off from the wetsanding. Even though it is your last coat I probably wouldn't go any higher than 1500. Maybe even a 1200 or lower then go over with 1500 one more time.
I'm no expert though I've only done one panel. Just my thoughts.
- Thread starter
- #57
I was sorta thinking the same. I'll probably do the rest of the coats and lightly do a once over with 600 then get progressively finer. If I screw up I can always do another coat. I always wipe the whole truck down with mineral spirits between each coat. Takes 20 minutes and cleans it beautifully.
you have to at least wetsand to get all the airborn Lint and dust that falls on it,
Also something i haven't mentioned in my thread is that i've been using microfiber cloths to wipe everything down, and they are amazing. Go buy some.
Also something i haven't mentioned in my thread is that i've been using microfiber cloths to wipe everything down, and they are amazing. Go buy some.
- Thread starter
- #59
X2 Got those too!
- Thread starter
- #60
Well, I went down to the garage to do coat number 5 without wet-sanding and, of course, I don't have any rollers.
Wet-sanding begins.
Wet-sanding begins.
