Puma 12V Compressor (3 Viewers)

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Here's my final setup. Airline runs to both ARBs and a air line ran out the back for filling tires. The 55s have reflectors on the back that are hard to find still good, so I just replaced them with machined alum. and a rubber plug cover that I drilled out, so the air chuck could pass through.

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The other side is a plug in for the battery maintainer.

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@scrapdaddy very nice job, and very clean. what material did you mount it on top of, is that a type of hard foam? I can't tell from the photos. also can you recommend a source for high heat / pressure lines? am looking for SS line like what you run to the chuck.

great work
 
Very nice setup.
 
Thanks Guys! Can't wait to use it.:)

Hamishotter, I used a piece of hard rubber that I had in the shop. The little rubber feet that came with the compressor were breaking down already and I needed something to fit over the floor ribs. For the SS air line, I bought a 36" one from Summit Racing.
 
Thanks scrapdaddy, and Merry Christmas

Sent from my Nexus 6P
 
Wondering if someone can help me

My Puma compressor is hard mounted in the rear of my Cruiser and is powered off the battery mounted below it.
The unit has started malfunctioning these few months and is melting all the wires and killing the 80 Amp fuse i had used.
I found out that the switch was burnt and replaced it, now the second one is also destroyed.

Can someone shed some light into what might be the problem?
 
Check your voltage at the battery if there is nothing wrong with the compressor. Typically for DC motors, the current increases as the voltage decreases.
 
Wondering if someone can help me

My Puma compressor is hard mounted in the rear of my Cruiser and is powered off the battery mounted below it.
The unit has started malfunctioning these few months and is melting all the wires and killing the 80 Amp fuse i had used.
I found out that the switch was burnt and replaced it, now the second one is also destroyed.

Can someone shed some light into what might be the problem?

What size wire are you using and where is your fuse located at? Does the compressor run at all?
 
The battery is maintained by a ctek charger and is usually fully charged as I only have a small fridge hooked on to it.
I used thick wires, thicker than the one that leads into the switch.
The fuse is located close to the battery. The compressor will run if i change the fuse but it will melt the wires due to the massive load it pulls!
 
The battery is maintained by a ctek charger and is usually fully charged as I only have a small fridge hooked on to it.
I used thick wires, thicker than the one that leads into the switch.
The fuse is located close to the battery. The compressor will run if i change the fuse but it will melt the wires due to the massive load it pulls!

It is important to have your truck running anytime you run your compressor.
Is this a new problem or has is run without issue before?
What gauge is the wire you used to feed the compressor?
The factory wiring is OK to be small because of its length.
 
If you are melting wires it can only be two things:

Wiring from compressor to battery is too small, so increase the size of wire used.

or

Compressor is pulling too many amps. This could be caused by a bad connection in your wiring, compressor has developed more drag than it used to have, or an internal short in motor. Could also be a bad un-loader valve causing it to have too much head pressure on start-up resulting in high current draw.

A pic of your setup might help us to see what you have.
 
If you are melting wires it can only be two things:

Wiring from compressor to battery is too small, so increase the size of wire used.

or

Compressor is pulling too many amps. This could be caused by a bad connection in your wiring, compressor has developed more drag than it used to have, or an internal short in motor. Could also be a bad un-loader valve causing it to have too much head pressure on start-up resulting in high current draw.

A pic of your setup might help us to see what you have.

I have seen a PUMA set ups when the un-loader valve fails and starting amps exceed 100A and the fuse blows immediately given no chance for the wires to even get warm. My Puma testing shows starting amp empty at ~30A and shuts off at ~50A. Me thinks something else is going on having seen Pumas run off 10gauge unfused wire without wiring melting.
 
I'm looking to permanently mount my Puma. I don't plan to use the tank, at least not initially. I'm looking to reuse as many components as possible.

I have retapped one compressor orfice to accept NPT 1/4" threads, installed a few elbows and rearranged some ports on the factory pressure switch, and connected the compressor directly the pressure switch. Is there a way to set or configure the switch to run constantly, rather than stopping when reaching a certain level and starting again when it gets low?
 
You could use a pressure relief valve set a bit lower than the switch.
 
It looks like the switch has some adjustment built in. The pressure relief valve included is 150PSI. I wonder if I can adjust the switch to cut out above 150PSI and have it run indefinitely?

What are some other switch options if I can't get this to work?
 
It looks like the switch has some adjustment built in. The pressure relief valve included is 150PSI. I wonder if I can adjust the switch to cut out above 150PSI and have it run indefinitely?

What are some other switch options if I can't get this to work?

Why would you want it to run above 125PSI? As long as you stay below it will continue to run.
I'm currently working on a tankless PUMA set up for our LX470 that will be live with no cutoff or relay.
 
My goals are a tankless setup and to reuse as many of the factory parts as possible. I have a 60a breaker I'll be installing, but I need a switch. Trying to reuse the factory switch resulted in continuous on/off cycling.

Sounds like you might have some more experience and direction than me. Mind sharing your plans or giving me some advice?
 
So I bought one and mounted it on my sleeping/drawer platform in my lx470. Question tho, Why did some of y'all remove the pressure regulator? What benefit does that provide?

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No real need to regulate output. Many remove and add a 90° fitting to keep things streamline.

Reading this thred it looks like it need to be a special kind of elbow is this something you can get a Lowe's or homedepot? Or need to order one?
 

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