PTO winch install KZJ78

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running plasma in a under vehicle winch will the mud etc ruin the ropee most guys here use wire on under vehcile winches due to the mud

It will get no muddier than out in front. And if you give it a wash now and again.
The guys who push the ropes hard in competition and play get about 2 years out of theirs.... So mine should last as long if not longer. And with the pro's / con's with wire v plasma.... I will run with the plasma.
Much easier to work with and easier for my winch boy.
Plus I hate wire rope with a passion. But that's another story.
I have seen some seriously rough looking plasma performing quiet well when most would have thought it was ruined.
 
Have had another spurt of work on the winch.
Reinforced the rear brackets.
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And fitted up the pulley block.
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Now working on the freespool mechanism.
Don't run air so wont work for me.
Been advised not to run cable as they fill with silt and lock up.
So going hydraulic.
Got a cruiser clutch master cylinder cheep and matched to a (saying very quietly) nissan slave cylinder.
Mocking it up and want to install it before I weld in the rest of the frame. Idea is spring loaded in, hydraulic for freespool actuated from the cab.
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Off to tidy my mess up.
 
I'd like to see more info on the longer bolts- size and placement- when you get to that point.

Best!

Pete

Bit more of an update, have done the final weld in for the pulley and winch brackets.
Worked out the hydro freespool and just need to make a handbrake or original clutch pedal to activate it.

Also here are a few pics of the bolt replacement for winch worm gear housing.
Basically you replace three of the short bolt locations with longer ones. 150mm at a pinch. Picture says it all.
You have to drill out the threads and also remove a small web...
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Next is to make up the pto drive.
 
Looking good Calvin-

Thanks for the pics of the bolts mod. I'll keep that in mind for sure.

I have 3 winches on the bench now and all of them are very stiff or frozen at the pin/lever dog that engages the spool. Might be worth fitting a grease fitting there if its going to be under the truck. Though if you use it often enough and the truck doesn't sit for long spells it would probably be fine.

I like the hydraulics as opposed to cable or electronics. I may have to think about going that route with my rear locker too.......

Did you replace the seals for the shaft on the winch? I'm wondering if the seals and gaskets are still available from Toyota.

Oh and in case your interested I recently bought the shear pin for a 70 series which is 1 and 1/3 again larger in cross section. Here is a link to that info:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/439883-need-pto-winch-shear-pin-u-joint-part-numbers-3.html


Best!

Pete
 
Did you replace the seals for the shaft on the winch? I'm wondering if the seals and gaskets are still available from Toyota.

Oh and in case your interested I recently bought the shear pin for a 70 series which is 1 and 1/3 again larger in cross section. Here is a link to that info:

Hi Pete

Thanks for the info on the shear pin...I plan on running a 5mm soft bolt. (That's what the other lads run)
Cheap and easy to replace. But plan on doing some testing at work with a big compression / pull tester we have.

I did change the seals, went to a local bearing / seal shop and not Toyota.
Way cheaper.
Did the worm drive seal and shaft seal.
Also did the same for the pto unit.

I used toyodiy.com to get the toyota numbers and google searched and found various sites which converted them to std seal sizes from the various manufacturers.
 
Update whatever # it is. :lol:
Fitted winch under truck and went for a day out at our local 4x4 park.
Every 7 weeks its our clubs turn to play patrol and help the public on behalf of the operator and we get in for free:)
Really articulated and bottomed out the rear dropping off some bluffs.
Nothing hits anywhere so far so good.
Been out in the garage this week before work and finally made up and trial fitted the freespool release. Looks just like one of those hydraulic hand brakes.
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Its fits inside the factory arm rest box between the front seats.
The factory rear heater was leaking, so out it went.
In goes the freespool unit.
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Collected some Chrome Molly tube for the pto shaft..And a CV axle assy. Nice and small one. Will work great as long as I dont break it.
Plan to make a spare . Since its all custom made.
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Off up the road soon to buy a flaring tool from Super Cheap....
Its getting close to being finished......
 
Put hydraulic freespool together in truck to see how it works "for real"
Here is a short video.

Drive shafts next.
Then a tidy up and test run.
 
Been out playing again in the garage.
My machinist workmate has been busy doing my drive shaft this last week.
Welded it all up today and trial fitted.
I have also moved the factory shear bolt location from "A" to "B".
As the winch is under the truck getting to it in the factory position is near on impossible especially if up the the door sills in mud.
SOOOOO it will be replaced with either a 1/4 inch or 5/16 grade 5 bolts or higher so it wont shear.
Original hole all ratty and flogged out.
Having it at point "B" will allow me to access it thru the trucks floor, when I make a little hatch in it.
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Here are some shots of it under the truck.
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Also have done the final install of the new "handbrake" operated freespool.
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Next job is to drill out the shear pin locations and buy some bolts.
Also have the doughnut hawse made. Oh and buy 45m plus of Dyneema.
 
Alllll righty
Got my pto shaft back and assembled.
Fitted and had a play with it driving winch.
Phew it turns the correct way.
Now to track down some 4mm bolts and replace the temporary shear pin and spool on some rope.
Here is a little vid of it going. Sorry for the noise but the exhaust was right over my head cough cough


Spooled on my Plasma rope from the electric winch, its about 15m shorter than need but great to test it out.
To get tension on the rope to spool on properly hooked the truck up via a double line pull and dragged the daily runabout down the drive on its handbrake.
And it did spool on nice and neat.
Now to find a weekend to go out and test it.
 
Well I gave it a test run today, wow what a difference over an electric.
Pulls nice and strong, and quick.
Being an auto it starts off in 1st and can go up thru the gears.
And you can feel the strain and modulate the throttle.
Rope spools on the drum nicely.
So at this time its a keeper !
 
Looks like a good job.

My prior experience with PTO and AUTO was not good with the the 13B-T sounds like you have it sorted.

also my advise do not winch above 1st gear the sloppiness in the joints is generally too great.
 
also my advise do not winch above 1st gear the sloppiness in the joints is generally too great.

Thanks !
I understand your concern re the sloppiness, was warned about that one when I started.
A friend did a retro fit in the factory position on his KZJ78 and had all sorts of issues with shearing pins and the death rattle.
So I embarked to have no slop (almost) not like the old universals and drive shafts that hang off the frame.
Have machined down the worm drive a little and made up a new connection.
Shear pin also nice and tight and also using CV joints and a shortish shaft.
When I say tight, not press fit but sliding fit.

As for the auto, I know no better so to speak.
Pulls too slow in first but in second its feels strong and for fun (testing I mean) pushed it into third (not a heavy winch). Was running at 2000 rpm.
I have also fooled the auto to start off in 2nd gear and hold it there.
Nice on the trail and also for winching.

But now I have to learn how to use it and when to back off.
 
I notice in the pics you do not have a cage around the DRUM so stop the cable slipping/skipping off the drum. We have encountered this several times and have the drum caged to stop this occuring. It usually happens when reeling in fast or you get tight/slack suddenly in the wire/plasma . On steel its fatal as it wraps around the shaft and it has to be cut out :( . Plasma a little easier to fix but not when you are up to your doors in mud.

I suspect you are too busy withthe world cup to be looking at ih8mud :)
 
I notice in the pics you do not have a cage around the DRUM so stop the cable slipping/skipping off the drum. We have encountered this several times and have the drum caged to stop this occuring. It usually happens when reeling in fast or you get tight/slack suddenly in the wire/plasma . On steel its fatal as it wraps around the shaft and it has to be cut out :( . Plasma a little easier to fix but not when you are up to your doors in mud.

I suspect you are too busy withthe world cup to be looking at ih8mud :)

Hi cicak

Yes I have been thinking about that, something to stop it falling off the side.
Plasma tends to behave better than wire.
Wire tends to spring a bit.
Its on my to do list......

Yes the RWC is good entertainment.... Go the All Blacks !
 
Good to see ya showing abit of Kiwi ingenuity on the world stage

Keep it up mate its good stuff
 
great job and nice work kbush. watch out for the boys in green!
 
Well last job I think has been done on the winch install.
New donut hawse fitted.
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Just need some longer rope.....drum is only half full ish with 35m worth.
Should be able to get on 50m
 
Well gave the winch a test run yesterday..
Here is some footage and also of me and two others having a play.
The old Prado bus works well on the uphill axle twister...Compared to the Range rover / disco......

Enjoy

Woodhill 05 11 11 0001 - YouTube
 

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