PTO winch install KZJ78

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peteinjp said:
I'm a little late with the info for ya! Looks good- what is that boot/ shifter off of originally?
Pete
Click to expand...

Hi Pete

I was told the PTO drive and shifter came from an early 70 series, but the shifter was gated in the middle for the two position PTO units ?. Mine was just the one position.
Using a BJ70 as an example.
Here is the lever setup.
ToyoDIY.com

And here is the boot setup.
ToyoDIY.com

When I mounted it all up yesterday I needed the full sweep of the gates, so I have welded up the center one and made two at each end of the sweep. To latch it in Drive and No drive.

Here is a photo of the modified shifter bracket (it was from a manual trans truck)
The gate part was removed and repositioned (ground off old welds)
And also the rod, which was lengthened 65 mm.
DSC06942.jpg
 
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Got my bits back from plating, they have been electrolysis nickel plated.
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In cab lever all done and installed.
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DSC06953.jpg

And linkages all installed and adjusted with a little bit of free play at each end.
DSC06956.jpg

DSC06955.jpg


Next step is to complete the winch rebuild and work out where and how to mount it under the truck.
In the process of buying a used CV axle from a FWD car to drive it.
 
You dont want to mount the pto in the factory postion? At the front?

I missed if this discussed before.
 
The Winch is going to be mounted in the middle of the truck...
And leave my electric in the front.
As I am slowly setting my truck up for some club class level winch competitions.
And also I like to tinker and gives me something to do 8)
 
Update
Well got my winch spool back from my plating man. Took a bit to clean it as oil was soaked into the casting.(porous cast steel)
DSC06962.jpg


Spent a bit of time over one weekend looking at rope paths and winch positions.
Blew a hole in the front cross mount and decided where it would come out the bull bar.
Now thats been set the rest will follow.
I can get a straight run thru to the cross member behind the transfer case.
DSC06965.jpg

Next step is to locate the winch.
I have two options, slight direction change to the winch top of drum.
Or run it past and thru pulleys attached to the rear cross member and back to the bottom of the drum.
Doing this I can get the winch higher and align it more easily.
Will mock it up later.
Photo below is my mobile winch rack...Cause its really heavy to hold up......
DSC06964.jpg

Well I have been under the truck again this morning looking at winch v's rope position.
I can only see two ways to get maximum length so the cable will lay properly (according to the rope people I would need 4m) I can get 700mm give or take without major body mods... Trying to keep it factory as much as possible...
While keeping winch away from drive shaft and diffs and suspension and body work and also keeping rope away from the same...And still being able to drive the thing via the PTO. Have settled on solution one. (I think) Oh and allowing me to have a trap door in the floor pan so I can get to the shear pin.....
winchpathone.jpg

If I move winch back one bay it gets too close to the diff head for my liking.
(now if I cut its bum off...move fuel tank up hmmmm another day I think)

But solution two is possible but the rope gets rather close to left coil.
winchpathtwo.jpg

Both options rely on using two pulley's / sheaves.
Option one is also good as I only need to weld two tabs to the bottom of the cross member to mount the rear winch points.
Not sure why I took on this project .... Ahh thats right watching those winch trucks ...And I am a sucker for mechanical things / projects.

Oh and I am having the lads machine me up one of these for the front hawse / fairlead from stainless (cause its cheap)
CWF001-LG.jpg
 
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Looking good there with the plating- Just curious why not run the pulleys all the way to the rear cross-member (second layout image) like Andrew Farmers to allow for pulling back as well?

Pete
 
peteinjp said:
Looking good there with the plating- Just curious why not run the pulleys all the way to the rear cross-member (second layout image) like Andrew Farmers to allow for pulling back as well?

Pete
Click to expand...

The second layout cross member idea is the second to last cross member. Basically the fuel tank is in the way. I can't go over and under is way too low. I looked at getting around it to the side but still not a working thing.
Would only work if I did a bob tail and moved the tank up....And I would have to loose the tool box in the floor.
I would love the rear winch option... I could run some tubes thru the tank.....??
 
I have the same issue except the tank in my bj44 is in the way of the output shaft and very hard to get around. I too thought of putting a hole through the tank as one possibility. But I just don't have the time to deal with it. I have to winches and was thinking of running one front and rear- or mid mount like Farmers. Its all possible... but always a compromise right.....

For now I'm just going to do the easy and put one up front then think about how I could guide a cable past the axles if I really need to pull back. Probably not feasible.....

Keep up the work!


Pete
 
Hi!

Are you planning to use your winch reducer upside down or did you changed shaft out coming direction? If you turned the reducer up sdie down it wont grease itself. Why can´t you turn your winch around. So the reducer will be in middle of te truck and the spool on the left side. And have you been thinking about the wire spooling? When you use the pulleys so close the spool, it won´t spool itself and you or your winchman wont be able manually spool the wire.

Sorry about my crappy english but I hope You understad. Keep up the good work:cheers:
 
Thanks Vilkar....I will be turning around the input for the reducer as you call it. So the winch will not be upside down.
Also having it that way will enable the pto shaft to be more straight.
And also the free spool will have room so I can operate it remotely from in the cab. Plan on setting it up so its engaged using a spring and free spooled with a clutch slave cylinder.
Don't plan on running air operated rams like some do. Trying to keep it simple.
My pictures are not to scale so give the impression I can get a straight line to the drum center.
But I cannot.
Will be setup similar to this one.
Jimny003.jpg

Yes you are correct with the location of the pulley and winch drum..
I may have issues when its spooled on with no load as some guys here in NZ, it tends to build up in the middle.
I will also be running synthetic rope like Amsteel blue.
Will see what happens.
 
A few new photo's.
Have mocked up a pulley wheel (machine shop busy)
And made holder for it.
DSC06989.jpg

Trimmed a bit out of the floor pan. Will reinforce it later.
DSC06987.jpg

View from underneath.
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Another view of the rope route forward....
Off to look at a friends SWB LJ70 chassis with Hilux single cab,which is a full on winch truck with a Lexus V8 on Saturday and see how close they got the electric winch to the rear suspension arms.
Then I can start making tabs and brackets to mount the winch.
 
More Photo's
After visiting my mates workshop, have set position for the winch.
Have made up some brackets for the rear mount points.
Tacked in, will add some straps to the top of them later.
DSC06992.jpg

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Got to play with my new welder
Using it on gas-less wire (donated by a mate)
Have taken off the shroud... You can see what you are doing, especially on your back, contorted around the rear axle welding upside down.
And I am a novice.!
DSC06995.jpg

DSC06996.jpg

Now to get some steel for the front mounts...
The original 8mm angle iron is too short, and overkill???
Was thinking of dropping it to 5 to 6mm ..
What do yah think?
 
Keep the 8mm- or thicker since the span is longer. Basically I'd say when it is all said and done you should be able to look at the setup and say "there is no way that is going to fail." I'd plan on the winch mounting to be able to hold the entire weight of the vehicle without a problem. That is the way the stock set up on the 40 looks with the winch sitting down between the rails.

I remember reading that Andrew Farmer bent the rear cross-member on his 40 where he had the pulley mounted and had to re-enforce that. That is a pretty good amount of force!

Those mounts in the rear need to do more than just hold the weight in line with the direction of pull. All of the weight is applied as rotational force- at least on the side with the drive gears. That side can be re-enforced to prevent breakage if your really going to be pulling hard:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/208362-if-aint-broke-reinforce.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/206441-pto-winch-gearcase.html

Make it at least a little too strong= my vote


Keep it up-

Pete
 
Thanks Pete.:cheers:
Plan on using long bolts (3 off) for the worm drive end to stop it cracking.
Thats what seems to work according to the guys here in NZ.
The front mount wont span the entire chassis.
I am going to run a tube between the cross members (tubes) fore and aft,
Then weld to that.
So it wont be any wider than a factory install on the front.
If anything it should be narrower.
Once tacked in and I can drop the winch out of the way. Then I can look at adding gussets etc etc.
I have heard also about things bending like chassis's etc etc, that's why I have ended up trying to get as straightest as pull from the front.

Those links were interesting.
 
Keep at it Calvin- Sounds like you have a handle on it all.

I'd like to see more info on the longer bolts- size and placement- when you get to that point.

Best!

Pete
 
peteinjp said:
I'd like to see more info on the longer bolts- size and placement- when you get to that point.

Pete
Click to expand...

Basically you replace 3 of the bolts on each cap with a long bolts / nuts which strap the two caps together. If you look closely and Andrew Farmers setup you can see one long bolt on the worm gear housing.
 
Ahhh taken a few days off work, bit quiet this week.
Got out into the garage while the kids are at school and made some more progress on the install.
Made up the forward mounts and side brace. Tacked it all up.
Can remove it so I can reinforce it in various places.
And I want to add some hoops over the top of the winch to stop it rolling the rope off the side. The less welds under the truck the better :mrgreen:
Then I can stitch it all in...
But ran out of gas-less wire.. :|
Going to pinch the neighbours bottle and swap wire back.
DSC06998.jpg


Looks like it will do the trick.....
 
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