thank you both. I need to figure out the disassembly. My drum rotates whenever not engaged. The pin is sheared, but once I engage the drum, there is no movement. Going to let the internals soak in GL4 for a while.
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If the pin is sheared then your not going to rotate the drum to turn the worm gear assembly. Worm gears are driven uni-directional. The worm gear CAN be driven forward and reverse, but ONLY by means of the input gear. If you have oil leaking then your gears/bearings are probably not seized up. The rebuild is straight forward, depending of course on how far in detail you want to get into it. The bearing races can be removed by welding.thank you both. I need to figure out the disassembly. My drum rotates whenever not engaged. The pin is sheared, but once I engage the drum, there is no movement. Going to let the internals soak in GL4 for a while.
If the pin is sheared then your not going to rotate the drum to turn the worm gear assembly. Worm gears are driven uni-directional. The worm gear CAN be driven forward and reverse, but ONLY by means of the input gear. If you have oil leaking then your gears/bearings are probably not seized up. The rebuild is straight forward, depending of course on how far in detail you want to get into it. The bearing races can be removed by welding.
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No need to drive the races out at all. You cant do that anyways as its impossible to get behind. For the bearing, take a small diameter cut off wheel and carefully cut through the bearing cage and into the inner race. DO NOT CUT INTO THE WORM SHAFT OR WORM GEAR. Once you've cut a nice groove in ONLY the race, do the same thing on the other side, 180* from the first groove. Once you have 2 grooves, put a chisel in the groove and smack with hammer, wear safety glasses as bearing races are very hard and shatter. These same practices can be used to remove axle bearings or any bearing that is hard to get at with a puller. The brilliance of it is that there is no large forces put into what your trying to repair.so the welding shrinks the races? Interesting approach. No slot to drive them with punch from behind? Like the front wheel bearings. Appreciate the help.
housing was dry When I got the truck. I filled the gear oil. I’m afraid PO sheared the pin after doing the driveline work. When to engage the winch and it was seized. Won’t know until I’m in there.
Maybe just couldn’t locate a shear pin...
Marc
Braden620If the pin is sheared then your not going to rotate the drum to turn the worm gear assembly. Worm gears are driven uni-directional. The worm gear CAN be driven forward and reverse, but ONLY by means of the input gear. If you have oil leaking then your gears/bearings are probably not seized up. The rebuild is straight forward, depending of course on how far in detail you want to get into it. The bearing races can be removed by welding.
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The gold colored face of the seal should be to the outside of the gear box.Braden620
dumb question but with the worm gear and then these two end caps being installed after the shaft is in place, which way do the oil seals go? I would assume solid face out but you would be installing over the shaft backwards? Just thinking thru before I start this. Thanks. Marc
Yep. That’s the way I thought. Thank youThe gold colored face of the seal should be to the outside of the gear box.
From what I added about 30 days ago. It’s rough. Once I get the bearings off the worm gear and races installed. She will be good. Hasn’t been loved in a long time! Barrel and main gear turn by hand when I engage.Everything looks oily so that's good.
Can you do me a favor? Can you measure how much cable is on your spool? I need to order cable for mine but dont know what it will hold. Those online calculators, I'm not sure about. Yours looks like 3/8" which is what I'm after.From what I added about 30 days ago. It’s rough. Once I get the bearings off the worm gear and races installed. She will be good. Hasn’t been loved in a long time! Barrel and main gear turn by hand when I engage.
I will be back on the project in a week or two. Once together I am going to respool the cable and will measure length for you!Can you do me a favor? Can you measure how much cable is on your spool? I need to order cable for mine but dont know what it will hold. Those online calculators, I'm not sure about. Yours looks like 3/8" which is what I'm after.
Those steel plates aren't gaskets, they are the shims that set the bearing play. You may need to re-shim if you have replaced the bearings. I assembled mine a week ago and I put a small bead of Toyota FIPG on both the steel end cap (that houses the race) and an identical bead on the gearbox housing, making a seal on both sides of shim. I haven't filled mine with oil yet but I suspect it will be fine. The FSM just says use a liquid sealer.Quick reassembly question. The two end caps that hold the bearing races for the worm gear have metal plate gaskets. That’s where I was having a leaks. Gaskets aren’t to bad. Is it best to reuse and add a LITTLE black FIPG or should I cut new gaskets out of a sheet of gasket material? Make a difference?
thank you. Marc
Thanks @Braden620 i need to track a real FSM down. I bought a reprint but doesn’t show the winch info. MarcThose steel plates aren't gaskets, they are the shims that set the bearing play. You may need to re-shim if you have replaced the bearings. I assembled mine a week ago and I put a small bead of Toyota FIPG on both the steel end cap (that houses the race) and an identical bead on the gearbox housing, making a seal on both sides of shim. I haven't filled mine with oil yet but I suspect it will be fine. The FSM just says use a liquid sealer.
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