I plan on shimming mine as well. My main concern was that if someone didn't have a shoe (as I am also missing one on another winch) that one could be made from the dimensions.
PTO Winch Information (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Glenn-BJ74
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I plan on shimming mine as well. My main concern was that if someone didn't have a shoe (as I am also missing one on another winch) that one could be made from the dimensions.
Reviving an older thread here, I'm going through the same process of trying to rebuild my pillow blocks. How did the oil seals hold up so far? Thanks for your input.
I'm getting slow in my old age. The seals look to be in fine shape, but I haven't used the winch much over the years, but I see no reason they won't last a good while even with regular use.
Thank you!
It is something to consider that excellent quality Japanese oil seals were available when the PTO was designed, but were not used in this application. In order for the seal to work properly there must be a concentric and smooth surface for the seal to sit on. Also a certain surface hardness to prevent the seal from rapidly wearing away at the shaft. I can not speak to the specific hardness requirement, but I can attest that our 50 year old shafts have seen some surface corrosion and are no longer concentric nor smooth. Since water vapors can not easily pass through the interface of a rubber seal, any moisture intrusion that does make its way past the lip of the seal will have a very difficult time getting back out. Furthermore, installing a seal in place of the felt creates a void or a cavity behind the seal that is now only occupied by atmosphere which will always contain some water vapor.
In the case of the felt, it occupies nearly all of the airspace behind the steel retaining ring and can be treated with a corrosion inhibitor or combination water displacer, VOC type, Fluid Film, etc. This treatment can be replenished at a regular service interval with no disassembly required. Any water that does find itself behind or within the felt can easily pass back through and may be aided in process by heat transfer from the drivetrain components, and turbulence under the truck.
I suppose one could try and fill the cavity with gear oil before installing a seal, but I would argue that it will likely leak out over time, again knowing that this housing and shaft were not designed to accept a seal.
In the case of the felt, it occupies nearly all of the airspace behind the steel retaining ring and can be treated with a corrosion inhibitor or combination water displacer, VOC type, Fluid Film, etc. This treatment can be replenished at a regular service interval with no disassembly required. Any water that does find itself behind or within the felt can easily pass back through and may be aided in process by heat transfer from the drivetrain components, and turbulence under the truck.
I suppose one could try and fill the cavity with gear oil before installing a seal, but I would argue that it will likely leak out over time, again knowing that this housing and shaft were not designed to accept a seal.
Braden620,
So what would be your solution since the OEM seals are no longer available. I don't believe anyone makes the felt type seal anymore. I would think you'd have to do a lot of winching in order the wear the shaft down.
So what would be your solution since the OEM seals are no longer available. I don't believe anyone makes the felt type seal anymore. I would think you'd have to do a lot of winching in order the wear the shaft down.
There was never an OEM seal, only a felt washer, which is discontinued. I recently approached a manufacturer of such washers and got a production quote. I could get them made if there was enough demand. In retrospect, one could fashion a die and cut his own from some felt. Not exactly a huge process/science involved with cutting a circle.
Please don't take my thoughts out of context. It's your rig, do with it as you wish. Any wear or damage to unobtanium parts that can be avoided, should be.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Hmmmmmmmmm
I f someone sends me measurements for the felt washers I could try burning them out on our school's laser.
I f someone sends me measurements for the felt washers I could try burning them out on our school's laser.
You're right, but if I remember correct the felt is held together with a steel retainer/ring, seal looking jig-a-bob. That steel part is what rusted away. Going on a crappy memory here so help me out.
Here's a picture I found of mine...
See Post #193 in this thread.
The steel thingy a bob is just a washer to support the bottom side of the felt and keep it from interfacing with the bearing and its seal. It could also be fashioned with relative ease. I sandblasted and powder coated mine with a layer of zinc rich powder primer and top coated with a UV stable polyester powder. Probably wont rust for a good long while. Might be worth ones time to put a light coating of waterproof grease on the internals before assembly.
Here are the dims I specified when getting a quote. I had to convert them into English units, as their quote form wouldn't accept metric.
Washer - Felt 2.086"OD x 1.377"ID x .250"TK OD:+/-.008" ID:+/-.005" TK:+/-.025"
This is just for the large felt washer, there is a smaller one too. I will have to dig mine out and measure.
Speaking of cutting, I wonder if my wife's Cricut could cut 1/4" felt?
Following
Thank you all so much. Spent last hour reading thru the thread. It’s a few months out, but will start my project late this summer as time allows. ‘67 FJ40. There has been some work done on the drive shaft from take off. The “new” ujoints are loose in flanges, not sure if the take off side flange should be a slide or not, assume it is. Block seems in good shape, pin is sheared and leaching from worm gear front oil seal. Still have the keyed external shaft.
Looks like the factory brass cap u-joints. The part circled in yellow should just slide out.
mrboatman,
yes, I believe the front u joint is original. The joint back toward pto has been replaced. I think it was with the “smaller” version from 60 series steering column. They are a bit loose.
thank you for the feedback. Trying to secure the seals and things I will need, and secure some diagrams for disassembly
Marc
the seals you need for the winch front and rear is
the bearings are
the 71 just means fork lift
90311-28004 | Seal Type T Oil |
| TY97600-30206-71 | Bearing - Taper Roller For Toyota : 97600-30206-71 | 2 | $6.19 | $12.38 |
Seals are of course in metric scale , and standard as well , so you may find them in any workshop store .
At a fraction of toyota price .
At least here in Europe .
At a fraction of toyota price .
At least here in Europe .
The Toyota seals are not expensive. I'm not sure about getting the bearings through Toyota. I purchased mine through an authorized Koyo distributor. They were about $65 but worth the peace of mind knowing I dont have some counterfeit junk in my rig. If I'm hung up somewhere, the last thing I need is a bearing failure, especially if the debris wipes the worm gear out.
