Builds Project Pikachu: 1977 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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The stripes man....the stripes make the truck for me, in contrast with the soft top color.
Great job!
 
So my exhaust tick issue was not totally solved by the new donut gasket. When under acceleration, I could still hear a ticking. I pressurized my exhaust system this past weekend and hear a hissing sound at the infamous EGR pipe connection at the manifold. I happened to have an extra gasket for this, so I installed it, but the leak was still there. Sure enough, it was a crack in the old EGR pipe.
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Yesterday morning, I pulled into the garage and saw a couple of coolant drips on the ground directly under the front axle. Sure enough, the water pump is starting to weep.

I have contemplated replacement of the crusty old thermostat and pump anyway, so this gives me a chance to go ahead and knock it out. It couldn't have happened at a better time and place. Better here than in Canyonlands.

I ordered a new stat, gasket, housing bolts, and water pump bolts from Toyota today. The pump itself is NLA, so I am doing some research on which aftermarket one to buy. I'm leaning towards either the Aisin WPT-063 or the Airtex AW9493.

Little by little, Pikachu is becoming more and more of daily driver reliability.
 
After staring at this old thing for a few minutes, it became clear to me that I don't need no stinking EGR. Yanked it out, cut a steel template for a cap, and plugged the two other lines.
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Carson, listen and make sure you are not pinging under load now. The EGR affects the ignition timing; according to ignition and de-smog guru Jim C., the distributor advance curve was made more aggressive when the EGR was added, and without the EGR the curve may be too aggressive and cause pre-ignition under load. There are three possible ways to correct for this: 1) have your distributor re-curved by Jim C., 2) slightly retard your base timing until you completely lose the pre-ignition, or 3) some have reported that using higher-octane gas will stop the pinging. I had my (big-cap FJ60) dizzy re-curved by Jim and it completely solved it for me and drives nicer to boot.
 
Carson, listen and make sure you are not pinging under load now. The EGR affects the ignition timing; according to ignition and de-smog guru Jim C., the distributor advance curve was made more aggressive when the EGR was added, and without the EGR the curve may be too aggressive and cause pre-ignition under load. There are three possible ways to correct for this: 1) have your distributor re-curved by Jim C., 2) slightly retard your base timing until you completely lose the pre-ignition, or 3) some have reported that using higher-octane gas will stop the pinging. I had my (big-cap FJ60) dizzy re-curved by Jim and it completely solved it for me and drives nicer to boot.
Thanks, Lee. I didn't hear any pinging yesterday before the water pump entered hospice, but I'll give it a good check after everything is put back together.
 
So I'm waiting on parts in the mail for the water pump project. At the same time, the Warn 8274-50 wouldn't spool in due to bad solenoids, so I ordered a new set. Went with OEM and replaced all four. Ouch.

Winch works like a charm now though.
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Why not go with the Albrite solenoid? I just found out about it this week haha. I have 3 8274's that i will be rebuilding over the winter and will go with the Albrites
 
Why not go with the Albrite solenoid? I just found out about it this week haha. I have 3 8274's that i will be rebuilding over the winter and will go with the Albrites
I was convinced by someone knowledgeable that the Albright solenoid may also have its downsides, specifically with regards to contacts welding together under heavy load.
 
I was in Denver on business this week and timed the new Toyota parts just right. Got the call from my parts guy there and saved a few days' shipping by just stopping by and picking them up. Here's Joe from Groove Toyota. Great guy. I've been buying parts from him since I lived in Colorado.
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My son and I began the radiator draining and general water pump tear down process today. Everything freed up fine expect for those f*cking lower thermostat housing bolts that always break off in the aluminum housing. They've been sitting in PB Blaster for nearly a week too. I'm torn between ordering a new lower housing and drilling out the holes and installing new bolts with nuts on the back. I'm gonna head to Lowe's in the morning and see if they have metric bolts that will fit the bill.
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In the meantime, the block is clean and ready for the new parts.
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Despite some issues with the Airtex water pump (Which Aisin water pump for a 1977 FJ40?), everything is back together and working well.

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While the coolant was drained, I wanted to address the area where I "capped" off the rear heater earlier this year. I had originally used a loop of heater hose, but it had a small kink that I knew would crack and cause leaks down the road. So, I used two CPVC couplings and small sections of pipe and made a new loop. I did a little research on glycol its effects on CPVC, let it all dry, painted it black, and installed it. Works very well and is super simple.
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I also pulled an old and weathered OEM radio off the shelf to complete the throwback look of this dash.

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