Project PHOENIX-Gene's new LV (1 Viewer)

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Put in about 3 more hours on Sunday sanding and wire wheeling the front seat base. I need to weld in more steel reinforcements before I can put paint on it. Looking into my buddies father to bend me up some steel tube to replace the rotted steel that runs under both doors. Are they called rocker panels on a LV?. Anyhow, I need to get that done before I replace the front floors in the cab area. Working on these things is a blast.
FJ45LV REAR BODY WORK 013.webp
FJ45LV REAR BODY WORK 014.webp
 
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Gene,
Nice to see this rolling along again. Hope this means life is better for you and the family these days. Been looking forward to seeing the lv getting further. Body work sucks. That is the worst part of doing any project. But it looks like you are on the right track again. Set small goals and go for it.

Goebs
 
I'm using the 3 speed tranny hump out of my old LV with the 4 speed tranny and was told that the bolt heads on the top the 4 speed would hit the bottom side of the cover and radiate noise into the cab. Rather than pound out this part of the cover, I wanted to creat a "STAMPED" look and add some design to it. I did this to the dash of my 40 years ago and it turned out nice so I wanted to give it another try.

Here a pic of my old cover in my old wagon, and the finished product.
TC 1.webp
TC 8.webp
 
I started out with a sheet of 1/8" wall aluminum, and cut out the spacer (right) and the top cover (left). I Had taken my original cover and cut out a rectangular hole in it that cleared the outside of the tranny bolt heads by about 3/4". The spacer was made so that it covered the original hump by about 3/8", and cleared the bolt heads by 3/8".
TC 3.webp
 
I waited to cut the hole until a final measurement was taken.
TC 4.webp
 
Then I put the cover on and postioned the plate on top so that the hole was centered on the tranny. I sanded and polished the edges of the 1/8" aluminum so that after I caulked the 3 pieces together it would have a rolled look to it.
TC 5.webp
 
Here's the cover after being welded, bondoed, and the seams caulked with acrylic latex. The plates are attached to each other with 1/8" double sided foam tape. The tape helps with the clearance needed for the bolt heads, and also keeps the steel and aluminum apart so that you won't get electrolysis from the contact of dissimilar metals.
TC 7.webp
 
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Here's a close up of the "STAMPED" look I wanted. It was a lot of work for a tranny hump, but I'm gonna leave it exposed and put the 1/4" black neoprene diamond plate mats down instead of carpet. Gonna buy a sheet of it and custom cut them myself.
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Hey Gene, that turned out pretty neat...went back to look at it again...looks great !!! :cool:
 
Coolest tranny hump ever...
 
Thanks guys. I had lost these pics when my computer crashed, but just found them here on MUD. Here's 2 pics of the dash in my 75 FJ40 the first time I did this years ago. There's an aluminum plate for the cluster, the switches on the bottom that covered the hole for the stereo, and under the early windshield hardware both on the dash and the windshield frame. You can cover a ton of crap and add some design at the same time when making these cover plates. The reason that the spacer plate on my tranny hump comes down so low is because it's covering about 10 holes drilled by PO's.
CUSTOM DASH.webp
CUSTOM DASH 2.webp
 
That dash is hot. It makes a flat surface look almost "Elegant/Classy" in a retro art deco way. Nice job. :beer: Are you going to incorporate the dash styling into LV?
 

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