I totally missed this was a power steering application .... my bad. Thanks.
Project - Not so Nice
- Thread starter S4Cruiser
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I totally missed this was a power steering application .... my bad. Thanks.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
If those black fittings you show are steel-cool. They look like aluminum. Make sure you use high pressure hose as well.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #463
Yep - they look like aluminum and you can get them in aluminum but these are steel. Got lucky I guess.
Earl's Performance Power Steering Hose Ends 159106ERL
Earl's Performance Power Steering Hose Ends 150106ERL
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- Jul 22, 2012
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- Winter Park, Florida
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Ordered steel AN adapter fittings...but I'm still a bit hesitant to believe the aluminum ones can't hold the pressure. As an experiment, I'm going to run the aluminum until they create issue, but have the steel ones in the truck. At the rate I put mileage on this thing it will be decades before they leak.
I blew my high-pressure line apart three times in one month with an aluminum fitting with the Toyota pump, which is less presssure then the Saginaw.
Since going to Aeroquip steel fittings and matching line I've had no isssues.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #466
Brakes, brakes, brakes...the pre-bent stainless lines I got from CruiserCorps were mostly garbage so I salvaged what I could, which was 2 lines (that I essentially totally re-bent) and made new for the rest. Most expensive set of stainless tube nuts ever .
Instead of spending a couple hundred bucs for a 'tube straightener', I built one myself. 15 bucs in parts from Amazon and some left over angle I had laying around. I used 1.5" ball bearing screen door rollers that have a 5/16" groove. They are spaced out to straighten 3/16" tube as it sits but you can add washers b/w the angle to straighten larger diameter tube...which I have for fuel lines.
Once I finish using it, folks are welcome to borrow if needed.
Splurged for this flaring tool...it makes flaring so simple and repeatable, even for a first timer like myself.
.Instead of spending a couple hundred bucs for a 'tube straightener', I built one myself. 15 bucs in parts from Amazon and some left over angle I had laying around. I used 1.5" ball bearing screen door rollers that have a 5/16" groove. They are spaced out to straighten 3/16" tube as it sits but you can add washers b/w the angle to straighten larger diameter tube...which I have for fuel lines.
Once I finish using it, folks are welcome to borrow if needed.
Splurged for this flaring tool...it makes flaring so simple and repeatable, even for a first timer like myself.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #467
I had been looking for a couple weeks for female brake elbows in our thread pitch and size, with ZERO luck...it's like they don't exist on the interwebs...which is hard to believe. Hit up the pick-n-pull and robbed an 80 series for some fittings. This actually worked out very nicely as I cut down the brackets the unions were already welded to for what I needed.
Still need to paint the brackets and add rubber hose for the diff breathers. Almost all the brake lines are done too! Would've gotten the rears done but the monte carlo calipers I have were rusted solid in the fluid inlets...will get some remans one day this week. Also have some frame to axle soft lines coming from RockAuto.
I so should've done the firewall lines when the engine was out...huge PITA.
Still need to paint the brackets and add rubber hose for the diff breathers. Almost all the brake lines are done too! Would've gotten the rears done but the monte carlo calipers I have were rusted solid in the fluid inlets...will get some remans one day this week. Also have some frame to axle soft lines coming from RockAuto.
I so should've done the firewall lines when the engine was out...huge PITA.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #468
Started to assemble the dash...didn't get much done, but it's a start. Going to run a Dashman dash box instead of the typical rubber pad, should help with storage too! Will have to drill out all the spot welds to remove the rib thingy whatever its called.
New glass cut and installed with new OEM rubber and locking strip. Hope to get it mounted on the tube tomorrow evening!
And...got a Rigid SR-M diffused light that I'm planning to run as a backup lamp. I chose not to cut mounts for the oem light in the Budbuilt qtrs, so this will have to do. Thinking about mounting it under the cooler basket via swivel so it can be used as a campsite light as well.
New glass cut and installed with new OEM rubber and locking strip. Hope to get it mounted on the tube tomorrow evening!
And...got a Rigid SR-M diffused light that I'm planning to run as a backup lamp. I chose not to cut mounts for the oem light in the Budbuilt qtrs, so this will have to do. Thinking about mounting it under the cooler basket via swivel so it can be used as a campsite light as well.
little_joe
SILVER Star
Did you get an original dash box, or the one from BTB/MAF?
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #470
BTB is the only one selling it now, so I ordered from them. I called and spoke with Mark Vickers, the guy who came up, with the idea and was building/selling them...but he's moved on to other stuff and is no longer making them. He used to supply BTB with them already built, but BTB is now making their own, Marks not involved with them.
Leave enough room under the axle brake lines to be able to slip an axle strap underneath? Gotta be able to strap it to the trailer without kinking the lines.
isn't that a job that normally gets outsourced???Polished my knobs earlier
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Looking really good! Good choice on the flaring tool, you can get a 37 degree turret for it as well and do AN fittings. 
I use that for all fuel lines, trans and PS coolers.
I use that for all fuel lines, trans and PS coolers.
Crazy nice build Jon! I was impressed with your drawer set up and window screens you made for your old 80 but damn man you've really taken it up a notch. Stellar work pal!
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #477
Brake lines are DONE, just need to get a new set of rear rotors and some longer studs on the axles and I can button it all up.
Had some throttle pedal drama but was able to get it sorted rather easily --> Accelerator Pedal Binding - cable linkage
Also bent the fuel pump to carb hard line...it was a bitch b/w the air cleaner and York compressor mount. I put a bubble flare on the hose end of the line to reduce the risk of the hose pulling off.
Had some throttle pedal drama but was able to get it sorted rather easily --> Accelerator Pedal Binding - cable linkage
Also bent the fuel pump to carb hard line...it was a bitch b/w the air cleaner and York compressor mount. I put a bubble flare on the hose end of the line to reduce the risk of the hose pulling off.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Now i get the title 
Looking great man!
Looking great man!
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #480
Rear shock conundrum...
I need to order a pair and finish the mounts but I can't decide b/w 10" or 12". I plan to mount them vertical | | or close to it vs the typical / \ way. My measurements say to choose the 10s...mounting hole to hole at ride height is ~18" (with bumpers, spare tire, etc.) and will likely be a bit lower (17ish) once rig is loaded with people, gear, etc. Full droop is ~24" mount hole to hole.
Bilstein 7100 short bodies are as follows;
- 10" travel = Extended 24.31 / compressed 14.21
- 12" travel = extended 27.68 / compressed 16.1
If my measurements above are correctish then the 10"s would give me ~3" up and 7" down shock limited and the 12"s would give me ~1" up and 11" down shock limited. However if my full droop is really 24" then I would still only get 7" down limited by the springs.
Am I missing anything here or stressing over it too much?? By the 10s and be done??
I need to order a pair and finish the mounts but I can't decide b/w 10" or 12". I plan to mount them vertical | | or close to it vs the typical / \ way. My measurements say to choose the 10s...mounting hole to hole at ride height is ~18" (with bumpers, spare tire, etc.) and will likely be a bit lower (17ish) once rig is loaded with people, gear, etc. Full droop is ~24" mount hole to hole.
Bilstein 7100 short bodies are as follows;
- 10" travel = Extended 24.31 / compressed 14.21
- 12" travel = extended 27.68 / compressed 16.1
If my measurements above are correctish then the 10"s would give me ~3" up and 7" down shock limited and the 12"s would give me ~1" up and 11" down shock limited. However if my full droop is really 24" then I would still only get 7" down limited by the springs.
Am I missing anything here or stressing over it too much?? By the 10s and be done??
