Project - Not so Nice (2 Viewers)

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Once you find the right fitting for the Toyota radiator and attatch it, fill the funnel about quarter to halfway and just let it run, having front of the car higher than the rear really helps as well, if not on your hoist maybe in a driveway that has an incline. Then top off the funnel as needed. You can also raise the RPMs with the funnel on there which helps get fluid moving through the engine and may get out any pockets. You’ll see all the bubbles come out.

Once the fluid level starts to rise a lot, you’ll want to plug the funnel with that yellow rod, then Unattach it from the radiator.
 
I visited Donald @ Henry's this morning for exhaust work. First time using them and I'm impressed. Super nice work and knowledgable, professional folks. Extremely affordable as well. The tied into the downpipe already on the exhaust manifold, ran 2.5" pipe with a flex joint and 40 series muffler. Sounds great but no where near as loud as before. I also had them turn down the pipe and dump it right near the rear shock crossmember.

Couple exhaust pics and some back home in the driveway.











 
Beautiful truck Jon, well done :beer:
 
Figured I should run some sort of doors and I'm not super motivated to finish the other oem soft door......so I pulled out a pair of best top half doors I had from Caseys old 40. Cleaned them up and threw them on, don't look bad at all...should work great!

 
Very nice sir!!
 
Where did you get the mat? Somewhere local or online?
 
I think I need some help or at least some perspective / points of reference.

I took the 40 for a drive through the local neighborhoods and it doesn't seem to run right...however I have never driven one with 37s and a sm365 trans. Gears are L, 1, 2 , 3 and R.

I am starting out in 1st gear which gets me to ~10/15 mph then shifting into 2nd. If I'm on anything but relatively flat road then the truck will bog down / not accelerate when in 2nd gear. This can't be normal??? I verified that I'm in 2wd high just to be safe.

Regardless I drove around to at least put the truck through some road.

I would occasionally get what sounded like the beginnings of a back fire when shifting gears.

Once back to the house I checked the temps with a handheld laser gauge gadget. The following are some temps that I feel are too hot but I have zero reference and searching didn't really help. The cluster gauge read 1/3 to 1/2 from the left.
T stat house - 210*
Top of rad - 210*
Valve cover - 160ish
Center of Exhaust manifold - 650ish o_O
Center Intake manifold - 450isho_O
Head on the passenger side - 190ish

While doing some 'checking' I noticed that I had failed to cap off a vacuum port that is in the carb insulator base :eek:. I also am pretty sure I have one hell of an exhaust leak at the manifold / flange. I Jerry rigged a gasket and also need to replace the studs as one is almost thread less.

Would either of the issues I noted above be causes for what I noted above?

Items of note:
I have checked the timing and it appears fine at idle 12* advance.
I adjusted the valves per cold numbers before running the engine but I have zero clue if I did this correctly - first time adjusting valves, but it seemed pretty straightforward.

Any help is much appreciated!
 
Laser gauged mine last weekend after a full thermostat redo. I had 180 on thermostat housing and top of radiator was 160, block was 270, exhaust was 520. Gauge in cab was reading on the
Low end of middle.

Not sure if that helps you issues or not but before my thermostat housing redo it rarely cleared 130 on the thermostat as it was both stuck open and missing all of the seals needed.

I had stumbling issues in mine when I got it but mostly that was a poorly adjusted carb.
 
Based on what you're saying I'd guess it's running lean. extra hot, stumbling, etc. Check the fuel delivery.
 
Based on what you're saying I'd guess it's running lean. extra hot, stumbling, etc. Check the fuel delivery.

Thanks and one of the thoughts I had. Would a massive vacuum leak (carb insulator port open) cause a lean condition?

I need to do some reading for sure.
 
Vacuum advance dizzy?

With vacuum leak from uncapped port perhaps. Have you driven again since capping/plumbing?
 
Vacuum advance dizzy?

With vacuum leak from uncapped port perhaps. Have you driven again since capping/plumbing?

Yes, my dizzy (60 series large cap) is vacuum advance. I'm sure it wasn't advancing as it should with such a large leak. Crazy it even idled / ran worth a s*** honestly.

I haven't driven it again yet. Spent some time checking/tightening bolts... ubolt get loose so quickly and the front timing cover was dripping oil. Hopefully it was just because the lower large bolts were super loose. Then tooled around the yard / garden the rest of the day.
 
Which port was unplugged? Big vacuum leak will cause all kinds of problems.

This!!

Oh, and a 2F will turn a 465 drivetrain no problem in 2nd gear when running right. I usually started in second on flat ground.
 
Which port was unplugged? Big vacuum leak will cause all kinds of problems.

The one I circled below...interesting though as this is a pic that Stephen took a couple weeks ago when he was at the house. It show that I did have it capped at one point but it was not yesterday when I checked....

Can a vacuum port create pressure and pop off a vacuum cap??? That sounds like a problem in of itself...

vacuum.png


This!!

Oh, and a 2F will turn a 465 drivetrain no problem in 2nd gear when running right. I usually started in second on flat ground.

I was referring to 3rd gear based on what you stated. Taking off in second (or 1st as the gear knob indicates) is fine, it's when shifting into 3rd (or 2nd based on the shift knob) at around 15 mph, it is super sluggish and doesn't want to go unless very flat / down hill.
 

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