- Thread starter
- #161
fixin up the cage and making a removable seat cradle that is tied into the cage. The bars that go from the cradle to the B pillar will have a tube clamp tig welded in - Dr. Smash
Project: No end in sight (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fyresq
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #162
You'll also notice that the two front overhead bars had to be taken out because of the high seat mount with the big fuel cell. There was only ~ 3 inches of space between the bar and my head and I'm 5'10". The bars will be moved to put them out of the way. Dr. Smash fab is really thinking outside the box and I couldn't even envision the square tube detachable part until he built them. It's hard to explain but where the 45 deg angles come together in the tube they were drilled all the way thru and sleeved to keep the bolt from crushing it. The use of the square tube is to keep the ease of getting into the rig with foot room but to still tie in the a to b pillar
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Smash does some great stuff.
Tell the Dr. I found one of his tape measures in my truck when I pulled the center console to install my Tuffy. I'll drop it off next time I'm down that way.
fixin up the cage and making a removable seat cradle that is tied into the cage. The bars that go from the cradle to the B pillar will have a tube clamp tig welded in - Dr. Smash
NOW that is a COOL A$$ seat cradle!!!
I LOVE how you guyz did that tie in with the cradle and the A pillar on the floor. Great stuff! Those gussets might cause some head aches as well, no? I mean LITERALLY...head aches? With my MT cage, I ended up trimmin those UP to get more head clearance for that reason.
Looks great bro!
I frickin NEED a bender one of these days!
- Thread starter
- #165
Thanx - yeah the tie ins may be removed too........we'll have to see when the seats are in. IIRC, there is a foot or more of room. The overhead bars had to be moved for that same reason already
- Thread starter
- #166
Pics of more progress.........upper bars rearranged for more headroom
removable seat cradle
Front shocks 14" Bilsteins with f250 shock towers on top of the frame
rear shocks 12" bilsteins with custom upper mounts tied into the 45 degree frame stiffeners. Hard to see in the pic, I will try to get a better one up soon.
removable seat cradle
Front shocks 14" Bilsteins with f250 shock towers on top of the frame
rear shocks 12" bilsteins with custom upper mounts tied into the 45 degree frame stiffeners. Hard to see in the pic, I will try to get a better one up soon.
- Thread starter
- #167
Cage is done!
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- Thread starter
- #168
some more progress pics - one ton master adapted to the LC booster with new front and rear lines for the 60/14 with hardware for the rear 3/4 ton disc conversion
- Thread starter
- #169
When I started this project I never thought it would be so "built". While it's not necessarily hardcore, I wish I could have gone back and started it in the hardcore section. I think I would have gotten a lot more feedback than I have in the general tech section 
I know what you meen but people not commenting you does not meen they don't read.
I'm still folowing your tread and it looks great so far.
So hang in there and keep posting, your doing a great job.
I'm still folowing your tread and it looks great so far.
So hang in there and keep posting, your doing a great job.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2010
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- 719
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- Southern Iowa
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Great thread, I love the cage and the seat cradle even more!
Keep up the good work, I will be an avid follower.
Doc
Keep up the good work, I will be an avid follower.
Doc
I love the rig. I had similar plans and bought almost everything (6.0, 4L60E, D60, 14 bolt) but the puris tin me won out and I stuck with Toyota. sold everything but the tons and I'm attached to them.
- Thread starter
- #173
Thanx for the encouragement guys - I always love hearing the "why did you do that?", "Have you thought about this?" and especially the "here's how I did mine" (especially with pictures) Most of my build plans and ideas have come from other builds on here.
Maybe it's best to express my dilemnas or stuff I haven't figured out. A couple that immediately come to mine are:
1. Where to mount my battery (keeping the heater) or batteries - have thought about two optimas between the frame rails on the rear or one in the engine comp't and one elsewhere - no under seat space
2. How to mount the two piece front driveshaft - two slips? 1 slip yoke, pillow block bearing on the frame rail? angles?
3. What to make the belly skid plate with - aluminum or steel or ?
Maybe it's best to express my dilemnas or stuff I haven't figured out. A couple that immediately come to mine are:
1. Where to mount my battery (keeping the heater) or batteries - have thought about two optimas between the frame rails on the rear or one in the engine comp't and one elsewhere - no under seat space
2. How to mount the two piece front driveshaft - two slips? 1 slip yoke, pillow block bearing on the frame rail? angles?
3. What to make the belly skid plate with - aluminum or steel or ?
Why don't you create a battery tray behind the front seat in the floor, with a lid on it. You can lower it in and on top level the floor there so it won't interfere with the rear seat space.
why no atlas tc, with all the beef........good looking build, keep goin, yer past the half way point......i dread looking at your pics as i was there not too long ago!!
- Thread starter
- #176
I'm rocking the redneck Atlas
-D300, HD 32 spline output, 4:1 gears, twinsticked. I even entertained getting the Stak replace a case since the iron case is probably the weakest link on it nowIf I break it I'll replace it with an Atlas or Stak
I will also 4 link at least the rear in the future but I'm too antsy to get it on the road.
Cool build.
- Thread starter
- #178
Front winch plate/bumper initial made from 3/8ths - the spring hangers were also gusseted so I didn't have to worry about banging them. There's pintle hook mounts now too not seen in this photo
Rear bumper initial tacking and mockup
The front and rear are all done and welded up and on but the cruiser is currently at Bayshore Truck Equipment in Reno for the mockup and installation of my 1350 u joints two-piece driveshaft. More pics to come just realized this thread hadn't been updated in a little while.
Rear bumper initial tacking and mockup
The front and rear are all done and welded up and on but the cruiser is currently at Bayshore Truck Equipment in Reno for the mockup and installation of my 1350 u joints two-piece driveshaft. More pics to come just realized this thread hadn't been updated in a little while.
- Thread starter
- #179
Cruiser is home - unfortunately without the front driveshaft. I was quoted ~$1400 for a two piece front driveshaft so I'm going with plan B - Fab it myself and have a local driveline shop do the machining and balancing. Here's some more pics of the completed bumpers.
The idea with the front bumper was to mount the winch as low as possible to reduce potential cooling issues as well as provide a little protection for the line since it sits under the frame.
Clevis hook attachments
I really like the way the rear bumper came out.
The idea with the front bumper was to mount the winch as low as possible to reduce potential cooling issues as well as provide a little protection for the line since it sits under the frame.
Clevis hook attachments
I really like the way the rear bumper came out.
- Thread starter
- #180
And the tranny cooler mounted, still needs a rock guard - this cooler has its own fan and thermo switch that comes on when it's 175deg. I will also be using a frame rail cooler before it gets to this one. Hopefully I won't have any tranny cooling issues.
