Builds Project Bluebird and the tale of an engine rebuild (1 Viewer)

[maxbob002]

Nice job. I remember when I did my engine and how much work it actually was. Amazing how replacing all the little stuff adds up $$$$. If you are assembling the engine yourself, I have some info and pics in my build thread you can check out. It is a lot of work but so worth it in the end. Thanks for sharing the journey.

Thanks. It's coming back as a long block but I'll definitely check out your thread.

About the jb weld that's a valid concern for sure.

 

[maxbob002]

Checked in on my engine today. It's coming along. Next up are freezer plugs paint and cam bearings. Shop cat was super friendly too.

 

[maxbob002]

Also welded on my o2 sensor bung today. I'm not even an amateur but welds should be enough

 

[SteveH]

Progress on this?

 

[maxbob002]

Yeah I wish I had more to report but work has kept me busy the last few weeks and my garage is pretty far away so I have to plan trips. I haven't heard anything from the engine builder. Some scope creep has occurred. My third gear synchro had a snick when going into gear. Then I saw cruiser corps was having a sale. Boom I have a rebuilt trans.

...and when you have to split the transfer case to remove it...

I got a rebuild kit from Georg. Super easy to order and quick to ship.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Quick note. When you put the freeze plugs in the block pay special attention to the cam plug. Adding sealant with this plug will decrease your chances of any small oil leaks which are sometimes misdiagnosed as rear main seal, transmission seals, oil pan gasket. Just to name a few.

 

[maxbob002]

Quick note. When you put the freeze plugs in the block pay special attention to the cam plug. Adding sealant with this plug will decrease your chances of any small oil leaks which are sometimes misdiagnosed as rear main seal, transmission seals, oil pan gasket. Just to name a few.

Thanks and good to know about that.

 

[maxbob002]

Picked up the engine this morning! Spent the rest of the day gathering supplies and making room to do the transfer case rebuild. Goal for the weekend is to get the rebuild done and it bolted to the newly rebuilt trans.

 

[maxbob002]

First off a huge thanks to everyone who has posted split case rebuild pics and threads and to Georg whose youtube video is awesome.

However the world was against me this weekend. Between life and those stupid staked nuts, I didn't finish the rebuild. I assembled a new parts washer from tractor supply and filled with their mineral spirits based solution. I also assembled some shelving I had laying around figuring i would need a large work surface.

I had left the front driveshaft connected when I dropped the transmission and those bolts fought hard. The three staked nuts were a bear as well. I started with the trans output shaft one, then removed the rear output one. I used a crescent wrench as a bar to keep everything from rotating. Each nut was sequentially more difficult to remove with the front output one the worst. I ended up using my impact wrench after penetrant spray and heat. The flange would not come off so a 3 jaw puller was used to get it moving.

I followed the FSM fairly closely to get the case apart. Then used the same puller to pull the trans output bearing.

All three seals were hard and stiff like plastic. Probably original though the splines and races all looked minimally worn compared to some photos I've seen posted here. The front and rear seals didn't have a lip like the new ones supplied in the kit. The transmission to case seal was previously bad and I had been using one of the hose mods to keep fluid levels in line. It was tough to show the damage with a picture but in person it was noticeably torn.

 

[maxbob002]

I reversed the jaws on the puller to pull out the bearing retainer. Sadly I didn't get a pic of it. It honestly only needed a little pull. Probably could've been done another way but puller pressing against the from output shaft worked well.

Snap ring for the front removal was easy. Then used my ancient HF press to press the front shaft out. It was stuck pretty good from rusty splines on the bearing race. I put some pressure on it and then waited for 30 seconds. I almost stopped completely then gave it a one half stroke of pressure and it popped loose. Using the hammer method would've made this step miserable.

I pressed the low gear off without issue. Then I used a large socket per the FSM to press these off. After removing the snap ring of course. Though the snap ring was difficult to rmeove and isn't flat anymore. I'll have to see how it looks when it comes time for reassembly. It may need replacing if it doesn't seat well. The angle of the pic makes this not look straight. It was straight and I wore goggles. Safety first folks.

I used the 32mm socket and the idler shaft to press out the bearing. It came out easy. I was worried about just puching on the inner race. However the FSM implied with the SST this was the proper procedure so I went ahead with it.

This is how I left it last night. It all seems so quick and easy when you read other's threads. It takes forever. Though I was also checkin the FSM I printed pretty frequently.

 

[maxbob002]

The press plates made a great stand to drive out the bearing races. Both came out without much fuss. I couldn't find any markings on the shim behind the race. Neither showed much wear to me. Although I've only seen pics of ones with significant wear so this may be typical for the mileage.

The gaskets all looked like brown wax paper. They came off in chunks with some persuasion. There was some residue on the rear carrier. I'm not sure how to remove it. Anyone know? I was thinking about a steel wire wheel on a drill. I'll do some research this week and see what I can find. The same thing happened on the thermostat housing.

 

[maxbob002]

The bulk of today was spent scrubbing on the case. There was so much junk on them and it required lots of elbow grease. I couldn't get it all but it looks much better. I know some have had these hot tanked but I'm happy enough with the result.

And this is where work stops. I won't be able to reassemble everything for a week or so. Also I haven't gotten the pilot bearing out yet. I tried the grease trick and it just came out the sides of the bearing. Next will be the bread trick. After that it's going to take some contraption to get it out.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Solid work!

 

[maxbob002]

Solid work!

Thanks! It's been a slow build but I've enjoyed it so far.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I love mission creep!

 

[maxbob002]

Well today had some interference from life but I managed to get some work done. Cleaned a bunch of bolts on the wire wheel and degreased them. There are approximately one thousand little bolt bags left however.

The bread trick was no trick for the bearing. It just made little dough noodles. I then rented a slide hammer and pilot bearing remover from O'Reillys and that made short work of the bearing.

I then cleaned the rest of the case and all the gears in the washer. However when checking parts I noticed the spacer before the tcase was different for my original compared to the one that came on my rebuilt transmission. It was thicker and had a ball and groove machined into it.

As best I can search this is an early type spacer. I called Cruiser Corps and should get an answer in the morning. My plan is to use my original spacer and ditch the ball and grooved one. With that pending problem I began to press some of the tcase stuff back together. First was the front output bearing. It went in without issue and I used the 54mm axle nut to seat the bearing followed by the snap ring. This was shown in another thread and worked well.

 

[maxbob002]

A long section of 2" PVC pipe was used to install the front output seal. I planned to cut it but this was very doable.

Next a socket was used to seat the 4wd selector seal.

Similarly a socket was used install a new pilot bearing.

Then my trusty 36mm socket was used to install the bearing a good amount. I tapped on the flange next and used the same socket to press it all together.

Then came the bear of a snap ring. I know there is a special tool to make this part easier. I assure you all it's not the one I have.

I ended up using the snap ring tool to get it started.

 

[maxbob002]

Then the handy 36mm socket was used to set the snap ring in place.

The rear section pressed on without issue.

Of note that is just a section of 1.5" sch 40 pipe. It fits around the splined shafts well and sits on the bearing races without issue as well. The local plumbing supply had a bent section they gave me for free. They're awesome people.

Next, tapped in the front and rear bearing races without problem. I used the old shim to start but did order a shim pack with the rebuild kit just in case.

And this is where I left it. I'll see about the tcase spacer. Then it is full steam ahead.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Pro work!

Here’s the style of snap ring pliers I’ve found to be the easiest to use on those:

 

[maxbob002]

Pro work!

Here’s the style of snap ring pliers I’ve found to be the easiest to use on those:

View attachment 1690782

Thanks and yeah the jaws on those look like it would've made life much easier. Good to know for the future and in case anyone is considering doing a rebuild. I would encourage them. It's been fun. I'm going slow and double checking stuff. Ih8mud has been an awesome resource.