pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The fsm states adjusting preload to side bearings by a notch or two.
Project Blind Confidence (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bfBird
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #83
I think I'm calling it done. I have a couple of teeth that measure out to about .0115" and a few that are at .006". I tried to tighten it up, but guess that's as close as it gets.
The run out is out of spec, so check the ring gear bolts for tightness. On the other hand, this is not causing any noticeable problems.
There is no torque spec for the carrier bearing adjusters. You set the pinion preload at 12 inch pounds (new bearings) and then set the carrier preload so that the total preload at the pinion increases by 20 inch pounds for a total of 32 inch pounds.
Musta not been very important stuff.
It totally was important at the time I just have the cognitive capacity of a goldfish.
- Thread starter
- #86
I checked the play at the back of the ring gear and got ~.007 so the whole ring gear is getting wonky somewhere. It would explain my current backlash range. Ring gear bolts were all tight at 70 ft lbs or higher. Etched dates shows a April 01 for gear installation. My assumption is the gears were new at that time. It has fine splines on the pinion so that's cool. I'm obviously no expert, but I don't see much wear.
My options are to have a bearing race that's not sitting flush, uneven bearing wear, warped ring gear, warped carrier, or warped housing. It's like surfing web MD. I'm hoping for the first option.
How do I check if it's a bearing/race or the carrier?
Also, anyone know what the MD measurement stands for?
My options are to have a bearing race that's not sitting flush, uneven bearing wear, warped ring gear, warped carrier, or warped housing. It's like surfing web MD. I'm hoping for the first option.
How do I check if it's a bearing/race or the carrier?
Also, anyone know what the MD measurement stands for?
- Thread starter
- #88
Well, I couldn't leave it alone. I took the carrier out and loosened the ring gear. By the numbers I was high on one side and low on the other so I tried swapping the ring gear 180 degrees. I torqued it down in a star pattern then put it back on. Checking the range with a dial indicator on the back of the ring I was out .004". It was an improvement, but who knows if it was from just reinstalling the bearings or the ring adjustment.
I checked every tooth and everything dialed at .0065 to .009.
My pattern isvlow of center, but that's where it's going to stay.
I checked every tooth and everything dialed at .0065 to .009.
My pattern isvlow of center, but that's where it's going to stay.
- Thread starter
- #89
I thought this weekend was going to be big progress, but I didn't get as far as hoped. I got the center section on and started painting, but the paint blushed. It must have been way too humid so I'll be doing that again after a couple of days. I had planned to get going on the knuckle install, but I looking at some posts mentioning that grooves in balls were bad. I decided to do some ball rehab with JB weld. I got one side pretty smooth, but i had to recoat the other for another try.
- Thread starter
- #91
I see a seal wearing a hat and an x-wing...and a little more sanding
- Thread starter
- #92
I'm finally over the painting defeat I suffered over the weekend. It was a combo of high humidity and the tube coming out if the spray can being deformed. Paint was coming out way too thick. I should have been smart enough to wait longer between coats, but I'll remember next time. I recovered last night with a new can and lower humidity, and it kept the gloss this time.
- Thread starter
- #93
I chased threads and got knucke pieces ready for installation. Silicon gasket usage in the past made for a lot of digging to clear out. I reinstalled the studs with loctite, packed bearings, and started assembly.
I sit in morning of the hours spent painting my knuckle housings so I could immediately beat the s*** out of them installing the bearing caps and setting drag. I'll have to do some touch ups before I move forward too much. I had a hell of a time getting the bottom to seat in the bearing. After a timeout in the freezer, it started to listen to reason.
For spacers, I initially had a really thick shim and thinner one on top. I believe it was a .040" and a .020". The kit from Marlin had .019" and .007" shims. I put one back together initially with the original shims, but the drag was loose showing under 4 lbs on a fish scale. I wasn't sure how much the shim would change drag so I replaced the original thinner shim with two .007s. No discernible difference so I removed the one and tried it again and got around 4.5 lbs. I said why not and put it together with just the .040. It measured out at around 6 lbs drag. I called it good and went to the other side. I matched the shims on that side and got a little less, around 5.5 lbs to 5.75.
I also installed some eco seals and started on my birfield assembly. You can put me on the list for achieving the one man birfield to inner axle assembly. I tried a zip tie, but I wasn't able to get the retainer go in. Success was ugly with the outer shaft in the vise and the inner balanced on my head/shoulder, but one down one to go. Pic is after installation in its storage trash bag. I'm finding a lot of uses for trash bags during this process.
I think I'll put some fluid in the diff tonight to check for leaks before I put the axles in.
I sit in morning of the hours spent painting my knuckle housings so I could immediately beat the s*** out of them installing the bearing caps and setting drag. I'll have to do some touch ups before I move forward too much. I had a hell of a time getting the bottom to seat in the bearing. After a timeout in the freezer, it started to listen to reason.
For spacers, I initially had a really thick shim and thinner one on top. I believe it was a .040" and a .020". The kit from Marlin had .019" and .007" shims. I put one back together initially with the original shims, but the drag was loose showing under 4 lbs on a fish scale. I wasn't sure how much the shim would change drag so I replaced the original thinner shim with two .007s. No discernible difference so I removed the one and tried it again and got around 4.5 lbs. I said why not and put it together with just the .040. It measured out at around 6 lbs drag. I called it good and went to the other side. I matched the shims on that side and got a little less, around 5.5 lbs to 5.75.
I also installed some eco seals and started on my birfield assembly. You can put me on the list for achieving the one man birfield to inner axle assembly. I tried a zip tie, but I wasn't able to get the retainer go in. Success was ugly with the outer shaft in the vise and the inner balanced on my head/shoulder, but one down one to go. Pic is after installation in its storage trash bag. I'm finding a lot of uses for trash bags during this process.
I think I'll put some fluid in the diff tonight to check for leaks before I put the axles in.
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- Thread starter
- #94
I got the driver side axle and birf in without much issue. A little wiggle of the pinion was required. Packed it with moly EP and started to sandwich gaskets with the spindle, dust shield, and oil seal.
I was putting in the bolts when I found I was two short. Instant regret of my life choices set in as I thought I had kept everything together. I robbed 2 from the other side and torqued them down. Maybe they had cross pollinated during cleaning...
I started closing up the passenger side, and I'm 4 bolts short! I went through the hardware several times and the bolts aren't there. I eventually put it all in a bag so I can stop going back through it. The garage is a mess of greasy rags so after I collect my thoughts with an adult beverage, I start cleaning. No sign of the bolts. After cleaning the garage, going back through the trash, checking every pocket from clothes I've worn out there, and whatever else I can think of...I go back to the hardware bag in definition of stupid. Doing the same thing over and over but expecting different results.
Turns out I have 4 extra bolts with shoulders that connect the hub to the rotor (same pitch and size as the rotor just a bit longer) I didn't notice the spindles had different bolts when they came off and everything was grouped together by type after cleaning.
I guess cleaning the garage is progress too.
I was putting in the bolts when I found I was two short. Instant regret of my life choices set in as I thought I had kept everything together. I robbed 2 from the other side and torqued them down. Maybe they had cross pollinated during cleaning...
I started closing up the passenger side, and I'm 4 bolts short! I went through the hardware several times and the bolts aren't there. I eventually put it all in a bag so I can stop going back through it. The garage is a mess of greasy rags so after I collect my thoughts with an adult beverage, I start cleaning. No sign of the bolts. After cleaning the garage, going back through the trash, checking every pocket from clothes I've worn out there, and whatever else I can think of...I go back to the hardware bag in definition of stupid. Doing the same thing over and over but expecting different results.
Turns out I have 4 extra bolts with shoulders that connect the hub to the rotor (same pitch and size as the rotor just a bit longer) I didn't notice the spindles had different bolts when they came off and everything was grouped together by type after cleaning.
I guess cleaning the garage is progress too.
- Thread starter
- #95
I also touched up the knuckle after beating on them to install the bearings.
My wife has said that I spend “80% of my time looking for the part/tool I just put down and 20% of my time actually fixing something.” I too have cleaned an entire garage trying to find a part that was on my computer desk upstairs.
- Thread starter
- #97
I think I'm more 10% doing stuff and 10% brooding about doing something dumb.
- Thread starter
- #98
I got some new aftermarket rotors. They don't fit tight around the hub or the bolts. Will the bolt torque be enough to hold them steady or should I return and get something that fits better? Do they make shims for the hub to rotor fit?
- Thread starter
- #99
Getting back to normal life after the great freeze of 2021. I think I needed the break from the 40 as well.
I've made some progress in a few spurts when the garage was warm enough to work in. I found one of my hub studs was a different thread pitch than the rest. I'm not sure how or why. I'm trying to find one to order that doesn't cost $8 just for shipping.
New bearings and races on the hubs. It was a why not moment. I used national brand from the auto parts store. Btw you have to buy bearings AND races they don't come together.
Rotors are on after I figured out they fit. I think I was too tired the day I was trying them the first time. I was mistaking rotational movement for horizontal movement of the rotor on the hub. I had to buy a m8x1.25 tap to clean the threads. I got too much gunk in them during derusting.
Brakes are back on. I cleaned them up and replaced the piston rubbers. It's not fun to try to stretch those on and get them to stay in place. Also I didn't paint the calipers....
I've made some progress in a few spurts when the garage was warm enough to work in. I found one of my hub studs was a different thread pitch than the rest. I'm not sure how or why. I'm trying to find one to order that doesn't cost $8 just for shipping.
New bearings and races on the hubs. It was a why not moment. I used national brand from the auto parts store. Btw you have to buy bearings AND races they don't come together.
Rotors are on after I figured out they fit. I think I was too tired the day I was trying them the first time. I was mistaking rotational movement for horizontal movement of the rotor on the hub. I had to buy a m8x1.25 tap to clean the threads. I got too much gunk in them during derusting.
Brakes are back on. I cleaned them up and replaced the piston rubbers. It's not fun to try to stretch those on and get them to stay in place. Also I didn't paint the calipers....
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- Thread starter
- #100
I thought was a good idea to pull off the steering wheel and rework it before it completely disintegrated. I also thought it was a good idea to do this before getting back on the road to make sure I would get it done. The 40s been back on the ground for a few weeks while I work intermittently on the wheel. As with all things, I started in on fixing before I chronicled the beginning state. The lack of initial pictures is compounded by me breaking my phone a couple of weeks ago while working on the hub install. I dug through some old pics of the wheel, but in general it was in rough shape. Basically all the spokes were gone around the plastic horn insets and the rest of the wheel was cracking off completely in several places.
I went with the youtube approach of cover it with JB weld and start shaping. If i were to start over, I'd get something that was faster drying. Waiting 24hrs for each coat to cure makes this a looooong project. I've setup shop at the kitchen table which has gotten several comments form the wife.
I went with the youtube approach of cover it with JB weld and start shaping. If i were to start over, I'd get something that was faster drying. Waiting 24hrs for each coat to cure makes this a looooong project. I've setup shop at the kitchen table which has gotten several comments form the wife.
