Project Blind Confidence

[coinoperated40]

Depends on what you're going for with this truck and who will be sitting in the back. Long jump-seats won't work with a stock roll bar. The short seats will - so theoretically having the roll bar and a shorter jump seat offers an added level of protection - though there's a lot of debate as to whether the stock roll-bar is really up to the task in a roll anyway...it's pretty thin metal.

you find out real quick about the strength of the rollbar when you back into a guardrail in a highway spinout doing 55 mph and do two barell rolls and then two end-over-ends. You crawl out through the roof and think, damn what a ride.
Did replace the rollbar tho.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

you find out real quick about the strength of the rollbar when you back into a guardrail in a highway spinout doing 55 mph and do two barell rolls and then two end-over-ends. You crawl out through the roof and think, damn what a ride.
Did replace the rollbar tho.

Damn, impressive. I’ve just seen too many pictures of wrecked/rolled 40’s where the roll bar was a trapazoid at best, or a pancake at worst. Most rolls I get in would be a “flop” at 5mph off-road so I don’t worry about it too much.

 

[bfBird]

I drained the coolant and, of course, made a mess. Fluids from this vehicle do not like to go into buckets. Coolant was clean and green. I didn't see too much build up, but the drain on the side of the block did need to be poked with a screwdriver every once and a while to keep flow so there was some gunk in there.

I've come to a decision point. Since I've drained the coolant, I could take out the radiator and clean up the front frame, radiator bracket, and fan shroud. They look a bit rough, and if I get things running, I don't think I'll want to drain again anytime soon.

I'm both proud and disappointed in myself for the choice made. The bracket looks good though.

I did a lot of searching for temperature issues and found a bunch of posts about fan clutches. Forever the optimist, I hoped this could perhaps be my issue. I even went so far as to buy some R/C silicone diff fluid to refill the clutch. Well, disappointment ensues as I pull off my shroud and no clutch. Apparently clutches aren't on 76 California 40s? The fan is direct drive so it's always on. Does anybody need some clutch silicone?

I did find quite a few radiator fins that were bent and closed off. I straightened them out so hoping it helps.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

You might have mentioned this and I forgot but before you you pulled this did you check timing and ignition? I know it was “running/driving” when you bought it but I’ve seen a ton of overheat issues related to poor ignition timing.

 

[bfBird]

You might have mentioned this and I forgot but before you you pulled this did you check timing and ignition? I know it was “running/driving” when you bought it but I’ve seen a ton of overheat issues related to poor ignition timing.

I did time it after I primed the oil system. It was dead on the timing mark with the vacuum advance unplugged.

 

[bfBird]

More disciplined progress on cleaning and painting the front frame and supports before refilling the radiator. I'm still not a fan of frame painting, but it needs to be done.

While crawling around underneath, I noticed a couple of spots that have me worried. I saw them earlier, but I was in engine mode so I didn't do much investigation. Both front fenders have some stress fractures at the corners. I'm thinking that they were enlarged from wind pressure when trailered home, but based on the rust, they've been there for a while. I don't want them to get even worse so I may need to repair before I do much driving.

I did some measurements and the fender metal (both sides) is thinner than the rest of the body. Are the front fenders typically thinner or do I have aftermarket front fenders?

 

[SWCruiser]

Those jump seats will bolt up to the sides but will need captive nuts or rivnuts on the front. I just installed long jump seats on my 76. They look much better. Other people have installed them with the roll bar but I’m opting to lose the roll bar. Think about a front bench also. I did that for my kids. Another easy swap.

 

[bfBird]

Those jump seats will bolt up to the sides but will need captive nuts or rivnuts on the front. I just installed long jump seats on my 76. They look much better. Other people have installed them with the roll bar but I’m opting to lose the roll bar. Think about a front bench also. I did that for my kids. Another easy swap.

Thanks. Good to know on the sides. I looked to see if there were already holes on the wheel well yesterday. The driver side has some "extra" holes. I didn't measure to see if they fit the seats, but they seem to be in awkward spots like on the side of one of the beaded areas.

 

[bfBird]

I took a break from painting because I noticed my rear brakes are leaking from both sides. I immediately thought cylinders and wanted to get into it to see if I needed to order parts. It's leaking enough to form a drip of brake fluid down the tire which explains why I had to fill the rear reservoir when I bled the brakes initially. Sorry no pics. I tore into the drums and found a shiny new cylinders and some new looking pads. It was all clean and dry inside the drums. I kept looking and found 2 leaking bleeders and a broken bubble flare on one of the sides. I'm guessing it was overtightened as some point in life.


Every time I'm poking around, there's another thing I notice that needs some attention. The weld that attaches the rear shock mount to the frame is cracked. One side is completely free and the other is "mostly" free. It looks like I have some welding to do this weekend.

 

[bfBird]

Back at it after thanksgiving with the family. After loosing pressure during the last attempt, I switched over to 20w-50. I installed a new 180 degree thermostat and put on a new radiator cap. The radiator had some "junk" in it and there were some calcium deposits around the thermostat. I tested the original thermostat on the stove, and it was functioning properly so that wasn't my issue. BTW, the radiator bracket turned out really nice (see pic).

I burped the system for quite a few heat cycles, but I couldn't stop getting bubbles to come out. I also didn't see the levels going back down in my overflow tank after cooling. With more cycles than I'd like to admit, I realized my lower radiator hose was leaking and letting air into the system. Note: always check for leaks during/after heat cycles or you'll be doing it all night. I tightened up the hose (it's a bit bulgy and probably needs to be replaced). The cooling system started to do more expected things, and after some bumper jumping, I was convinced I'd gotten enough air out of the system.

Victory!!!! Temperature stays at or under the first temp line on the gauge and oil pressure stays around 20 at hot idle. Pressure is still responsive with revs so I think we're good to go.

I took it for a quick run up the street, and it maintained a nice stable temp. Pressure was good when I came back, but I couldn't see the manual gauge while driving. I expect it was fine.


I should have stopped with a win, but I had some extra time to check out the fenders. As I said before, I'd like to get them solid before I drive it much so the cracks don't expand. I had a heck of a time getting the side step off. With the lift, the carraige bolt no longer reached to the bracket and made a nice wallowed out hole in the rail the bolt fits into on the underside of the step. I ended up having to cut out the rubber support under the step to make room to get a wrench on the carriage bolt. I'll add that to the list of things to fix. I only got the driver side off, but I expect the same on the passengers side.

Bad news on the fender as well. I started digging into it and found about a 1.5 cm of bondo ontop with a nice rust layer underneath.

 

[bfBird]

In the pictures above I'd already started to try to beat it into shape a bit hence the tape where i was trying not to mess up any more existing paint. It was more mangled to start. You can see the gaps in from the underside in an earlier post. The fender had 2 main tears, one trough the corner and one through the rear bolt hole. The bolt was missing that connects it to the step. The step was generally unharmed so I don't think the bolt was ripped out, but I think the fender was ripped off the bolt at some point in it's life.

It's still my guess these fenders are either from a newer model or are aftermarket. The metal is a like a 24-26 gauge? With that much rust and nastiness, I was expecting to replace the whole rear section of the fender. I did a little wire brushing and soaking in rust eater and to my surprise it started to clean up. Not great, but not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.

I drilled relief holes at the end of the cracks and started welding. I tackled the longest one. It had a few different cracks at the top. I ended up having to plug the hole so I could weld up to the edges. My welding is a work in progress, but my grinding is spectacular! The bottom does not look as good as the top, but who's going to see the bottom anyways.

 

[bfBird]

Finished up on the second tear. At some point I lost the shape a bit on the corner. It's a little stubbier than when it started, but I don't think many would be able to tell without looking pretty hard.

 

[bfBird]

The step support and body supports were also looking a little rough. I'll add that to the list. Again nothing structural, but there is a lot of surface rust. Tackling the passenger side fender before I start with that clean up.

I had the same problem with the carriage bolt on this side and had to cut the rubber spacer off to hold onto the bolt. The only other way I can see to take these off would be to remove the whole fender first. Is there an easier way? I ended up having to cut this one off.

The passenger is similar, but someone tried a repair at some point. I was super impressed that someone made the decision to bondo and painted over this. First pick is taking of the paint and second is getting into the deep crevasse. They must have forgotten to leave the "vent holes" open when they added the filler. It's got to be hurting my aerodynamics.

 

[bfBird]

I forgot to post the pic of the underside. Notice the welding wire coming through at the top. Beating and welding. it's coming together, but still work to do. I was able to keep the shape better on this side.

 

[bfBird]

Finished up the passenger side. welded up a couple of the deeper rust divots. Welding on the edges is a pain. I had to recreate that bottom edge a couple of time because I couldn't keep from burning through.

I removed the step brackets and am doing some cleanup while i have the steps off. I bought some Corroseal to help kill rust on the frame and parts that won't show much. I'd say the results are mixed. The brackets were one of the best outcomes I've had. First pic is after application of corroseal. I did clean with wire brush and degrease first. Second pic is covered with a black topcoat.

A couple other places I've tried Corroseal it's given me a solid coat of thin rust., as if the corroseal is rusting. It comes off pretty easy with a wire wheel. I've tried cleaning and reapplying, but it seems some areas just don't take it well.

 

[bfBird]

When you're looking for rust, it doesn't help that someone painted the underside with rust red bed liner. I'm going cross-eyed looking for issue spots.

Question for the team: I have rust peaking out of some of the seams/metal overlaps. What's the game plan for keeping that at bay? Am I in trouble if I paint over the seam as I won't be able to spray fluid film in there every once and a while? I'm guessing the only real "fix" is drilling out welds and cleaning it up?

Fixing the side steps after the carriage bolts ripped them a new one. I used 16 gauge so they'd be a little stronger. Pretty easy job.

 

[bfBird]

Steps are back on and fit pretty well. I did notice my rockers were bent in just behind the step. I'm guessing it would be some sort of impact on the front of the steps could have bowed the panels and maybe contributed to the torn fenders. I cut the lower lip of the panel and pushed it out. It helped with the fitment of the lower door on the driver side. It had a little gap showing.

Speaking of doors, I will need to do some repair on the passenger side. It's gone all the way through from front to back, but I'd like to drive it for a bit before I tackle that project.

I took it on another joy ride, and used the clutch enough to get the clutch master to start leaking again. I packed the clutch master with a little hydraulic grease hoping it would help, but I think it just slowed it down a little. I need to put some time into floor and firewall cleanup in the near future. Also ordering a new master cylinder. The firewall has been pretty well stripped from an ongoing leak and it's eaten through the bed liner on the floor.

 

[bfBird]

I almost forgot to mention, I also did a valve tune up. I think it sounds pretty nice.

 

[bfBird]

I finished stripping the floor. It had some pretty tough bed liner. I think it was rhino lining, but I've never seen rhino lining to compare. It's very rubbery and tough to peel, but it also looks porous. I started just around the area that had been soaking in brake fluid (the rusty spot in the middle), but decided to continue on because I kept seeing some small rusty discolorations. I continued on until clearing out the whole under pedal area. Acid, wire wheel, and pick used to clean up. I did find two small holes. They look like puncture holes vs rust. I welded up the holes and put some weld on a few deeper spots.


I find it really weird that the bed liner was applied to bare metal. there was no paint or primer underneath to be found.

 

[bfBird]

Cleaned up all around the floorboard and got as much rust remover up in the seams as possible. Primed it until i figure out what I want to do longer term.

Since the inside firewall is completely clear of paint, I started to dismantle the area under the dash to be able to paint. Everything has to come out to get the pedal bracket out. I guess it will be a good opportunity to clean everything up.