Those of us who have stock 4.30 gears want 4.88 
Builds Project 200
- Thread starter bjowett
- Start date
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bjowett
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #162
The gearing change is not required… but it's a good time to swap the front diff as the CV axles need to be swapped out. 4.30 is a much better gear ratio for the 33" tires and mountainous roads around here.
The 4.6 definitely needs a bit more gear than the 5.7….. at least they didn't stick you with the 3.91 or 4.10.
The 4.6 definitely needs a bit more gear than the 5.7….. at least they didn't stick you with the 3.91 or 4.10.
Our 5.7 cruisers still come with the 3.91 gears, so Nomad and i got away lucky. Mine even has the factory e-locker. Luckily, i'm able to compare minor differences as i have access to a 5.7 (family hauler)
I am interested in a solution to fit the tires with the extra wide track. I am running the King coilovers and wheel spacers and my tires are contacting the Toyota fender flares. I have been looking at the Arctic conversion but it looks very involved.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #165
It comes down to tire size, wheel offset, and suspension travel. What size tires are spacers are you running?
I got a little carried away with the axle.
This is the notch that is required for the factory elocker to fit the 200 housing. The gasket from the 100 Series w/ elocker is used to trace it out as well as seal it up.
I got a little carried away with the axle.
This is the notch that is required for the factory elocker to fit the 200 housing. The gasket from the 100 Series w/ elocker is used to trace it out as well as seal it up.
how is it your read axel is so clean living where you do - not much rust if at all
I see - nice job - good call
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #170
So yes, the axle had a bit of rust here and there, nothing crazy… but a buddy of mine happened to be sandblasting some larger FJ40 items, and he was kind enough to hit this for me.
The diff extension is a reservoir and guard all in one. It's a 10" pipe cap cut in half and welded on. I've used these is the past, as have many others, for bash guards. It's a nice .375"/9.5mm thick, so it can take some good shots. The curved section of the old cover remains in place as a baffle to help the ring gear properly pump the oil up and around to feed the pinion bearings. Gear oil capacity should increase to about 5.5 quarts, stock is an already generous 4.4 quarts.
The diff extension is a reservoir and guard all in one. It's a 10" pipe cap cut in half and welded on. I've used these is the past, as have many others, for bash guards. It's a nice .375"/9.5mm thick, so it can take some good shots. The curved section of the old cover remains in place as a baffle to help the ring gear properly pump the oil up and around to feed the pinion bearings. Gear oil capacity should increase to about 5.5 quarts, stock is an already generous 4.4 quarts.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Bueller....Bueller...Has anyone seen Ferris?
Just bumping this up from the third page...prodding for updates.
Just bumping this up from the third page...prodding for updates.
more pics please
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #174
More pictures coming.
For now, here's a little mod that has great results, though not quite super practical for many to try and do. In the front lower control arm, the rear bushing is of the typical mushy compliance design. It is not solid, but rather has air spaces located horizontally to both sides of the main pivot point. It aids ride quality and also keeps the vehicle handling safe for the general public. During cornering and/or braking conditions, they cause the suspension to compress in a way that creates toe out along with caster and camber losses. This allows the vehicle to understeer during plenty of different scenarios, but mainly for those panic swerve maneuvers. They cause some loss of steering feel and directness... they allow the wheel/tire assembly to compress either forward or mainly backward which increases the chance of tire rubbing, especially off road.
There are many ways to deal with this, from complete new polyurethane bushings, which are undesirable IME for rotational applications, to spherical joints. These may both have issues ranging from poor performance, life span, and up on to cost and rather involved installation. At one point I considered having a complete new solid rubber bushing produced. The idea here is too stiffen things up, but maintain some vibration control for daily driving.
Alright... one way to stiffen things on an existing bushing is to fill the air space. After fiddling around with a few ideas, I decided to mix up some polyurethane and pour it right into the bushing. We can use poly here since it will not be used as a rotating bearing surface. The design of the air space along with a little creative masking/damming allow it to be completely filled. If one looks at the picture, you can see the stock bushing with air space next to the filled pieces. The arms need to be removed from the vehicle. If anyone wants to try this, I'll be happy to throw in a few more details.
I'm having trouble uploading files right now, stay tuned.
For now, here's a little mod that has great results, though not quite super practical for many to try and do. In the front lower control arm, the rear bushing is of the typical mushy compliance design. It is not solid, but rather has air spaces located horizontally to both sides of the main pivot point. It aids ride quality and also keeps the vehicle handling safe for the general public. During cornering and/or braking conditions, they cause the suspension to compress in a way that creates toe out along with caster and camber losses. This allows the vehicle to understeer during plenty of different scenarios, but mainly for those panic swerve maneuvers. They cause some loss of steering feel and directness... they allow the wheel/tire assembly to compress either forward or mainly backward which increases the chance of tire rubbing, especially off road.
There are many ways to deal with this, from complete new polyurethane bushings, which are undesirable IME for rotational applications, to spherical joints. These may both have issues ranging from poor performance, life span, and up on to cost and rather involved installation. At one point I considered having a complete new solid rubber bushing produced. The idea here is too stiffen things up, but maintain some vibration control for daily driving.
Alright... one way to stiffen things on an existing bushing is to fill the air space. After fiddling around with a few ideas, I decided to mix up some polyurethane and pour it right into the bushing. We can use poly here since it will not be used as a rotating bearing surface. The design of the air space along with a little creative masking/damming allow it to be completely filled. If one looks at the picture, you can see the stock bushing with air space next to the filled pieces. The arms need to be removed from the vehicle. If anyone wants to try this, I'll be happy to throw in a few more details.
I'm having trouble uploading files right now, stay tuned.
Maverick
Genius!
This thing is amazing. Any idea on a kit price? Comparable in price/performance to a stage 5 Icon system?
First dibs on Brian's 200 when he decides to sell!!
lookin purdy!
