problems after transmission flush

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when I was checking the level, it was a nightmare, though I did it exactly as the procedure mentioned, I was low like 3/4 quart.

Paul I know how precise you are when you do the work however, I found an easy way to do it from transmission shop.
you let the car run for 15 mins after adding a decent amount of fluid. while the car is running, you loose the drain plug to a point where fluid can come out. then you pump more fluid and once oil is coming from the drain plug, stop pumping and wait for the excess oil to drain and tight the plug. DONE.
I did it that way and the shifting is smooth as silk now :)
Thanks for pointing out your experience.

That is FSM procedure, except there is two more steps, which is, shifting through all gears and level check is done within a very specific temperature range. Just idling fluid may not have gotten into all chambers and will be most likely be too cool, thus level may not be in range!

If fluid temp below range you'll overfill, if temp above range you'll under-fill. It also means wasting fluid as FSM states add 1/4 qt then check level. It so specific Toyota adjusted down temp just a little bit in a TSB. They also found Dealership lubing centers were having issue with hitting temp in a timely manor, so they developed a rather pricey tool do at any temperature. Additional you need a torque wrench and new washer/gasket!

IMHO: Remove dip stick was just dumb idea making it PITA job of it and raising cost of job just to check transmission fluid.

With dip stick: It is easy, non wasteful, faster and lends itself to more frequent monitoring of level and condition with a dip stick and makes flushing a snap.

I know a few ways to skin this cat but I really do not like any.
 
Hey guys. Nothing new. My mechanic called me upset after the outside trans shop suggested a whole new transmission. He said “I sent it out to get diagnosed not just a blanket “you need a new transmission”. What’s next are they going to tell me you need a new car when they can’t figure the next problem out?” Anyways he pulled it back from them and is trying alternate routes. He (like me) feels it’s something related to the fluid change and has to be a simple fix. I’ll send another update when I have one
 


Thought this was helpful for others... about flushing and basic servicing of the tranny
 
O-RING filter will not cause the issue OP is facing, truck will act weird but not limp mode, I once have forgotten it and realized the problem months later. if your issue is not wiring connection, I would try to clean each solenoid with electric aerosol cleaner then blow it with air till dry. also, you need to confirm the oil type placed in the pan and not to fill it with other than Toyota WS.

best of luck
Again, tell the mechanic to check the solenoids connections and clean them as well, 80% will fix the issue or might have bad solenoid since u got solenoid code from the beginning. also Confirm oil level and Oem oil. I ran into similar issue and it was simple fix as missing o ring, low on fluid.
 
Ladies and gentleman. I appreciate all of your helpful tips and concerns. I received my car back from the mechanic. the trans shop he sent it to said there was a ton of metal in the pan and the fluid looked bad. This was AFTER he had flushed the transmission. He said was quite upset with the trans shop. He said "how could the fluid be bad? It was perfectly clean even before we did the service. I pulled the pan and put it in the parts washer and it was perfectly clean before it was replaced then I put all new filters and fluid in and then sent it to you guys to look at? Either the trans blew up and made all those chips on the limp over or your story isn't addding up." So either way he reset the computer again and it hasn't gone into limp mode for two tanks of fuel. I'm still nervous because nothing was actually done and no one has firm answers but hey, it's working like normal.

So much for needing a new transmission.
Thanks guys!

Now if I can just get my driveline to hold grease so it doesn't always clunk on acceleration and deceleration.
 
Ladies and gentleman. I appreciate all of your helpful tips and concerns. I received my car back from the mechanic. the trans shop he sent it to said there was a ton of metal in the pan and the fluid looked bad. This was AFTER he had flushed the transmission. He said was quite upset with the trans shop. He said "how could the fluid be bad? It was perfectly clean even before we did the service. I pulled the pan and put it in the parts washer and it was perfectly clean before it was replaced then I put all new filters and fluid in and then sent it to you guys to look at? Either the trans blew up and made all those chips on the limp over or your story isn't addding up." So either way he reset the computer again and it hasn't gone into limp mode for two tanks of fuel. I'm still nervous because nothing was actually done and no one has firm answers but hey, it's working like normal.

So much for needing a new transmission.
Thanks guys!

Now if I can just get my driveline to hold grease so it doesn't always clunk on acceleration and deceleration.

Glad to hear that you don’t need a new transmission.

As for the driveline clunk, you need a different grease.
Green Grease  | Waterproof Green Grease!
I buy it on Amazon. No clunk. I’ve been using this grease for 20yrs and zero problems. Everything from trailer bearings to u-joints and cv joints. It’s good stuff.
 
Ladies and gentleman. I appreciate all of your helpful tips and concerns. I received my car back from the mechanic. the trans shop he sent it to said there was a ton of metal in the pan and the fluid looked bad. This was AFTER he had flushed the transmission. He said was quite upset with the trans shop. He said "how could the fluid be bad? It was perfectly clean even before we did the service. I pulled the pan and put it in the parts washer and it was perfectly clean before it was replaced then I put all new filters and fluid in and then sent it to you guys to look at? Either the trans blew up and made all those chips on the limp over or your story isn't addding up." So either way he reset the computer again and it hasn't gone into limp mode for two tanks of fuel. I'm still nervous because nothing was actually done and no one has firm answers but hey, it's working like normal.

So much for needing a new transmission.
Thanks guys!

Now if I can just get my driveline to hold grease so it doesn't always clunk on acceleration and deceleration.

Man I’m glad for you! Keep us updated. It appears with the forum’s help you dodged a financial hit!
 
Glad to hear that you don’t need a new transmission.

As for the driveline clunk, you need a different grease.
Green Grease | Waterproof Green Grease!
I buy it on Amazon. No clunk. I’ve been using this grease for 20yrs and zero problems. Everything from trailer bearings to u-joints and cv joints. It’s good stuff.

Better than factory? I’m going on a trip back to Michigan in a few weeks and taking the LX and tweaking every lil thing I can!
 

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