Problems Adjusting Drag Link to Center Steering Wheel (1 Viewer)

[mphilleo]

Time to keep the parade of stupid threads marching along...

After reading several threads on the subject, I decided to try my hand at centering my steering wheel (currently pointing toward 10-11 o clock). I had sprayed penetrating oil days in advance and got the collars completely loose without issue, but the problem is the link itself. All I succeeding in doing was crushing the grease boot on the my pitman arm and making the whole assembly, including the steering damper feel loose without moving the drag link one iota. After using a BFH to try and loosen things up, I tried holding the passenger side drag link end while loosening up the drag link, but no luck. For the time being, I had to walk away after dousing the threads with penetrating oil. It's worth noting that I didn't notice any bent splines, but I'm not a trained mechanic, either. For now, I'm trying to figure out what to do next and pricing out a urethane pitman arm bushing. Anything I'm doing wrong or any suggestions are completely welcome.

EDIT: I think I'm using some incorrect terminology. If anyone can tell me what the name of that bushing/assembly on the pitman arm is, I'd appreciate it. I was hoping to drive the thing this weekend, but I can't imagine it's smart with that grease boot popped like a zit.

 

[bmac1996acc]

I believe the only issue with the grease boot will be shorter life of the end. Shouldn't be any immediate problems.

As for getting the arm to turn, I used the weight of the truck as leverage. I put a large pipe wrench at the end of the bar closest to the ground. Position the pipe wrench with the open end facing up. The wrench should be sitting at a slight downward angle. Now position a floor jack under the pipe wrench and jack it up. Mine broke loose pretty easily using this method.

 

[mphilleo]

I believe the only issue with the grease boot will be shorter life of the end. Shouldn't be any immediate problems.

As for getting the arm to turn, I used the weight of the truck as leverage. I put a large pipe wrench at the end of the bar closest to the ground. Position the pipe wrench with the open end facing up. The wrench should be sitting at a slight downward angle. Now position a floor jack under the pipe wrench and jack it up. Mine broke loose pretty easily using this method.

Thank you for the suggestion - I'll try that method tomorrow. I noticed that when I applied pressure (after bursting that boot), things got a lot looser. I could see the whole assembly swiveling the drag link ends (tie rod ends?) as I rotated the drag link to break it free. Is that normal or do I need to take extra care when I try my luck again?

Just to clarify, is the part with the burst grease boot I'm referring to called the center link? I'll probably order one asap.

Finally, I do apologize of I was off-putting. There are two things you should never do...go to sleep angry or post angry.

 

[mphilleo]

Regarding my note above, if a person applies enough force to the drag link, won't it essentially destroy the joints in the tie rod ends in the same way that it busted the boot on my center link? I don't see how a person can free up a seized drag link without ending up having to replace both front TREs, too.

 

[blkprj80]

I would suggest buying a TRE remover like:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Tie-Rod-End-Puller/_/N-2654

With it, you can remove the end without killing the boot. Then, you can have the whole relay rod where you can get after it.

On mine, I had to chase the threads inside the tube as it needed it be "shorter". For that, I used an old end with a thread cleaning notch ground into the lead threads. I can't believe you actually got it broke free on the truck. I had to use my biggest pipe wrench with a big pipe cheater on it and it still fought me.

Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters.com can set you up with new ends. Now that you've stressed them, you might want to replace them. Might want to do the tie rod ends while you're there. Especially if you have that new tool that makes removing them so easy...

Good Luck!

 

[mphilleo]

I would suggest buying a TRE remover like:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Tie-Rod-End-Puller/_/N-2654

With it, you can remove the end without killing the boot. Then, you can have the whole relay rod where you can get after it.

On mine, I had to chase the threads inside the tube as it needed it be "shorter". For that, I used an old end with a thread cleaning notch ground into the lead threads. I can't believe you actually got it broke free on the truck. I had to use my biggest pipe wrench with a big pipe cheater on it and it still fought me.

Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters.com can set you up with new ends. Now that you've stressed them, you might want to replace them. Might want to do the tie rod ends while you're there. Especially if you have that new tool that makes removing them so easy...

Good Luck!

Thanks for the info. Funny enough, I already have one of those tools on hand. I guess it never occurred to me to use (since I anticipated minimal resistance from the drag link). I'm trying to figure out the difference between the tie rod ends and the drag link ends in my mind so I can place an order for new ones. You'd think after wrestling with that last night, I'd remember what was what, but it's lost in the fog of war, I guess.

 

[BILT4ME]

I agree with blkprj80..remove the link assembly first, as it will be easier to work on, since it's not going well. However, you can try this assist before you remove it to see if it helps. I did all of this and in the end removed mine, and heated the ends on them because they would NOT move, even with a 36" cheater pipe on the pipe wrench.

OK, follow along on this one.....
On each end of the link (the tubular piece that connects the tie rod ends (TRE)) there is a threaded portion. That threaded portion has a split in it. Do not hammer on the split (open) side. Using the two hammers, hold one against the tube 90° CW from the split. Using the other hammer, pound on the opposite side (90° CCW from the split) This will help break the rust internally to the threads. Do this ONLY after you have loosened the tightening collar and moved it out of the way. It is NOT the intent to beat dents into this tube, it is only to shock it and disturb the rust. You can move around the tube and on different areas of the threaded portion to work the entire threaded area. DO NOT STICK ANYTHING (screwdriver or chisel) INTO THE SPLIT OR TRY TO PRY IT OPEN, AS YOU WILL JACK UP THE THREADS.

When you use a pipe wrench on the tube, position it on the split section of the tube so the jaw of the pipe wrench will "open" the split as you put pressure on it, not so it compresses the area. In other words, the jaw should hook on the tube in a way to pull the edge away from the split, not towards it...Make sense? Example: If the split is on the top, place the pipe wrench up from the bottom so the opening of the jaw is up. With the handle out to the left, the top jaw of the pipe wrench will hook on the side of the split that is furthest CW. Then pull the wrench up (CW) to try to move. If you want to turn it the other way, reverse the position of the pipe wrench in the same manner.

After you get it all to move, take it apart, clean the threads with a wire brush. Place anti seize in the internal and external threads and reassemble. Thread them all the way in on both ends and back out again (equally) to make sure that they get the anti-seize spread out and everything works.

Install on truck, adjust accordingly, and tighten securing clamps accordingly. Here's another tip: When you get all done, if the split is still in the upper position, fill it with grease to keep out the water. Otherwise, try to point it down to allow water to drain.

 

[mphilleo]

Never mind. Just saw BILT4ME's reply.

EDIT: Btw, thanks to BILT4ME too. Good information from everyone that I'll try soon. I ordered new relay rod ends and a steering damper for good measure. I'll be redoing the whole kit 'n' kaboodle this weekend. Here's to hoping to good luck!

 

[blkprj80]

By the way, if you do the tie rod (the one behind the axle), measure the length real well before you pull it apart. If you hit that pretty close going back together, your alignment will be pretty close. I realigned my Toe-in and put it at the center of the range. I ended up going toward almost no Toe at all (0 degrees) to get it to drive decent.

If you've done a lift, the relay rod will need to get "shorter" to make the steering wheel centered. Leave the clamps loose and go drive straight roads with a pipe wrench to adjust it. I used a piece of tape to determine 1/4 turns, 1/2 turns, etc. My wheel is nice and centered now.

Make sure you oil the threads on your new removal tool. I had really good luck with a 3/8 impact to pop the morse taper out.

 

[mphilleo]

By the way, if you do the tie rod (the one behind the axle), measure the length real well before you pull it apart. If you hit that pretty close going back together, your alignment will be pretty close. I realigned my Toe-in and put it at the center of the range. I ended up going toward almost no Toe at all (0 degrees) to get it to drive decent.

If you've done a lift, the relay rod will need to get "shorter" to make the steering wheel centered. Leave the clamps loose and go drive straight roads with a pipe wrench to adjust it. I used a piece of tape to determine 1/4 turns, 1/2 turns, etc. My wheel is nice and centered now.

Make sure you oil the threads on your new removal tool. I had really good luck with a 3/8 impact to pop the morse taper out.

Thanks for the additional nuggets of wisdom. Since you mentioned it, I have a question about the relay rod ends I plan on installing. My plan is to count the rotations/threads in removing the old ones and ensuring the new ones are in roughly the same position before I reinstall the relay rod. I know that something like that is very important when replacing TREs for the tie rod behind the axle, but is it just as vital for the relay rod too? I would imagine if I follow through with my plan, I'll simply pick up where I left off last night and try to realign the wheel as originally intended. Also, is there any trick to installing the steering damper or is that as straightforward as it appears? I have a digital copy of the chassis FSM and it didn't look like there were any specific techniques involved.

 

[inkpot]

Different TREs have different thread lengths, so measuring overall length would be more likely to yield matching old & new lengths.

 

[blkprj80]

I would measure it, and shoot for about 1/8" shorter than it was before you took it apart. Main thing is to have both ends threaded about the same, i.e., not buried on one end and barely threaded on the other. One is LH and other RH threads, and you want equal engagement on both ends. You may have to cheat this in order to get it adjusted enough due to rust in the threads.

The steering damper is fairly striaghtforward. Beware it might be like a gas shock, so you might want your wheels turned all the way left so you don't have to fight it as much. Put it on last, after you have all your junk adjusted and tight. You don't need to wrestle with that while you're getting all the other stuff right. When you put the damper on, it will likely rotate your relay rod to where the rubber boots are squished. Mine did. Just make sure your ends are aligned to each other before you tighten the clamps.

 

[mphilleo]

Thanks! Good info everyone!

 

[mphilleo]

I forgot to ask a basic question - do I have to have the front end up on jack stands? Or can I remove the relay rod and ends while parked in the driveway?

 

[bmac1996acc]

You can remove it with it on the ground

 

[mphilleo]

I got the whole assembly off, but was only able to remove the driver's side TRE (which was the reverse-threaded one). I'm having a heap of trouble getting the passenger side TRE. I've doused it with oil with the split up and probably given it about 8 minutes total of heat. With hot penetrating oil, the driver's side came off with minimal fuss, but I can't get this one separated while using a table vise and one helper with one pipe wrench and me with another. Any suggestions? I'm assuming that the passenger side TRE is the one that is standard thread, but have applied pressure both ways in hopes of breaking it free.

 

[Pin_Head]

Man up and get a bigger pipe wrench or put a cheater bar on it.

 

[mphilleo]

Well, I'm going to have to use a new acronym: BFP (big ****ing pipe wrench).

Anyway, the job is done. Got both ends back on and took great care to make sure there was plenty of anti-seize distributed along the threads. I also installed a new steering damper while I was at it. The only thing left that I'm wondering about is that the FSM says to reassemble the drag link with the ends installed with equal depth in respect to each other. When I had re-installed the drag link assembly, I took care to make sure each end was installed the same depth as the prior ones and then about 1/8" further. I had to back them out about one rotation to allow them to fit back into their respective mounting points.After I got the steering wheel where I wanted, there were about 4 threads exposed on the driver's side end and about 6 on the passenger side. I'm not sure if that will be a problem or if any other adjustment is necessary, but I'm open to your input, as always.

 

[blkprj80]

Run it! Make sure your clamps are oriented correctly.
Good work!

 

[mphilleo]

Run it! Make sure your clamps are oriented correctly.
Good work!

Thank you! It's always empowering to fix your own rig.

There were a couple diagrams in the FSM, but I went with the clamp orientation where the but and bolt is vertical (for both sides) to ensure there's no interference with the steering mechanism. Is there a particular way I should have them? I took "before" pictures, but they weren't very good. :/