Problem greasing the front U-joint of the front propeller shaft (1 Viewer)

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Surprisingly, it seals very well. It actually seals better than my regular fitting, but you do have to press firmly against the zerk while pumping the handle. Easily made all four of the spider points (whatever they are called) ooze grease nicely. Best of all, you don't have to wrestle it off of the zerk when you are done pumping grease in.

I liked it so much, I switched to using it for greasing my Kubotas. Got tired of trying to wrestle the grease gun off the zerk.
 
All I use for u-joints is a HF mini grease gun with a Lincoln needle works perfect with all zerks
Lincoln 5803 grease gun needle
I have seen nothing that comes close to working as good


100-gres-bush1-jpg.534087
 
Surprisingly, it seals very well. It actually seals better than my regular fitting, but you do have to press firmly against the zerk while pumping the handle. Easily made all four of the spider points (whatever they are called) ooze grease nicely. Best of all, you don't have to wrestle it off of the zerk when you are done pumping grease in.

I liked it so much, I switched to using it for greasing my Kubotas. Got tired of trying to wrestle the grease gun off the zerk.

Excellent. Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try it.
 
Great thread! Can someone point me to a document or tell me what the types of grease are to be used for the different lubrication points?

Thanks!
 
Great thread! Can someone point me to a document or tell me what the types of grease are to be used for the different lubrication points?

Thanks!

Over the years I have tried several types and my go to for the last 5+ years has been Green Grease available at vatozone. By far the tackiest and stays put the longest that I have found.
 
I am running into the same issue with access to the two zerks on the front shaft. This is because I am unable to turn the shaft with my hands. Car is in neutral so I don't know why it doesn't turn easily like the back shaft...

I bought the lock and lube attachment that works amazingly well for the slip zerks and rear shaft's spider zerks. No luck on the front shaft though (hoping to avoid removing it entirely).
 
I am running into the same issue with access to the two zerks on the front shaft. This is because I am unable to turn the shaft with my hands. Car is in neutral so I don't know why it doesn't turn easily like the back shaft...

As long as at least one front tire is in the air the conditions that let the rear turn should also work on the front.

I use two ramps and a jack to make this easy..

 
As long as at least one front tire is in the air the conditions that let the rear turn should also work on the front.

I use two ramps and a jack to make this easy..

I have the car on all 4 jack stands with the wheels off. The rear shaft is very easy to rotate. I just don't know why the front shaft will not budge as much.
 
Without catching up on all posts so this maybe surplus;

I managed to access all 6 grease fittings aka zerks by using this LockNLube grease gun. While the LockNLube grease fitting is a tight fit, it worked fine.

1739239600617.png


The rear diff and transfer case universal joints had enough 360 access and the front diff I was able to line up by:
- Jacking up one wheel so you can rotate it
- While having the hand brake firmly on and the vehicle in neutral. I think I did in accessory mode, may also have had the engine running. It throws a warning buzz as you release the foot brake and leave the car in Neutral, but it is a 2 min job. Also had blocks behind the rear wheels on the respective ramps.

This method allows you to turn the in my case passenger wheel and turn the front drive shaft until good line up of the zerk.

1739239680653.png
 
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I greased the joints for several years with a grease gun using standard zerk grip fittings and a needle fitting.
I got tired of pulling muscles in my neck and bumping my head. Not fun.
So I've started taking it to a local shop who does the lube job while I watch and wait and charges me $20.
I know, I know...I'm not worthy. :oldman:
 
I greased the joints for several years with a grease gun using standard zerk grip fittings and a needle fitting.
I got tired of pulling muscles in my neck and bumping my head. Not fun.
So I've started taking it to a local shop who does the lube job while I watch and wait and charges me $20.
I know, I know...I'm not worthy. :oldman:
Until the monkeys damage a zerk, like they have damaged my engine oil drain plug, and you rather do it right yourself...
 
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Without catching up on all posts so this maybe surplus;

I managed to access all 6 grease fittings aka zerks by using this LockNLube grease gun. While the LockNLube grease fitting is a tight fit, it worked fine.

View attachment 3836108

The rear diff and transfer case universal joints had enough 360 access and the front diff I was able to line up by:
- Jacking up one wheel so you can rotate it
- While having the hand brake firmly on and the vehicle in neutral. I think I did in accessory mode, may also have had the engine running. It throws a warning buzz as you release the foot brake and leave the car, but it is a 2 min job thereafter. Also had blocks behind the rear wheels on the respective ramps.

This method allows you to turn the in my case passenger wheel and turn the front drive shaft until sufficient line up of the zerk.

View attachment 3836111
My hand brake was off but I didn't think this would impede with the front shaft. Also, I did not have the engine on as the car was inside a garage.

I think I may be able to access the zerk with a needle head...
 
My hand brake was off but I didn't think this would impede with the front shaft. Also, I did not have the engine on as the car was inside a garage.

I think I may be able to access the zerk with a needle head...
Okay, two quick thoughts/observations:
  • Since the 200 series is full time 4 WD, you cannot put the transfer case in neutral, so you have to put the autobox in neutral to be able to turn the drive shaft. I am sure with the rear towards an open garage door you could manage for a couple of minutes.​
  • I recall access to the front zerk is only in a certain orientation, so doing the front wheel lift trick and putting the box in neutral helps a lot. I guess on a lucky day you could stop exactly in the right position. I recall reading that is near impossible.​
 
Okay, two quick thoughts/observations:
  • Since the 200 series is full time 4 WD, you cannot put the transfer case in neutral, so you have to put the autobox in neutral to be able to turn the drive shaft. I am sure with the rear towards an open garage door you could manage for a couple of minutes.​
  • I recall access to the front zerk is only in a certain orientation, so doing the front wheel lift trick and putting the box in neutral helps a lot. I guess on a lucky day you could stop exactly in the right position. I recall reading that is near impossible.​
By autobox, I will surmise that means the automatic transmission gear. Yes ,that is in neutral. And for the transfer case, I am not sure how to even put it in neutral.
 
If your 200 was on jack stands with all the wheels in the air, trans in neutral, handbrake off, t case not locked, you should be able to rotate driveshafts freely and relatively easy. Car shouldn’t be “on,” but to shift to neutral iirc you will have to be in ACCESSORY mode - annoying tone and all after shifting to N.

If all these conditions are met and you’re having issues, there’s something else going on or you’ve missed one of the above steps @Phantomx33
 
I am not fond of putting the 6000lbs 200 series on jack stands all the way around and find driving onto 4 ramps and jack up one wheel quite easy and safe.
 
If your 200 was on jack stands with all the wheels in the air, trans in neutral, handbrake off, t case not locked, you should be able to rotate driveshafts freely and relatively easy. Car shouldn’t be “on,” but to shift to neutral iirc you will have to be in ACCESSORY mode - annoying tone and all after shifting to N.

If all these conditions are met and you’re having issues, there’s something else going on or you’ve missed one of the above steps @Phantomx33
Yes to all the above, maybe except for t case lock. How do I know if my t case is locked? And if so, how do I unlock it?
 
Yes to all the above, maybe except for t case lock. How do I know if my t case is locked? And if so, how do I unlock it?
As far I know you cannot unlock the transfer case (edit - i mean put it in neutral and free spinning). Lifting one front wheel and turning the same to align the front drive shaft to differential grease zerk works with the automatic transmission in neutral. This with the hand brake firmly on and some blocks behind the rear wheels.
 
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I think they mean center diff lock. But unless they enabled it after doing the rear shaft it shouldn't be the issue here.

@Phantomx33 do you have a small yellow lamp on the dash with an X in the middle of the drivetrain?
 
Got you. With unlock I mean putting it in neutral like some 4WD transfer cases can do. So indeed wrong word choice and potentially talking past each other here. The only way I know for the 200 is putting the transmission in neutral.
 

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