I will keep it and try to put it back into shape if i can... keep it in the shed as a reminder... who knowsThat is ready for another 5 years, simple 16 lb sledge hammer could straighten that right out!!
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I will keep it and try to put it back into shape if i can... keep it in the shed as a reminder... who knowsThat is ready for another 5 years, simple 16 lb sledge hammer could straighten that right out!!
Just a reminder that you’re always 1 broken bolt away from a 2 hour job turning into a week long ordeal. I broke one of the aluminum stretch bolts on the caliper for the LS430. After some research in the LS430 groups it didn’t seem like drilling it out was worth the effort or potential complications, so I went the recommended route and ordered a used knuckle for $125 shipped. That took a week to be delivered and while I waited I used the torch and PB blaster on the other problematic bolt on the other side of the car. Heat, a turn or two until it would seize again, and then PB blaster sitting over night. There was no rush considering I was waiting on the knuckle shipment and I eventually got the other bolt out. View attachment 3327540View attachment 3327541
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Well hat my Timing Belt and water pump done last week and when my mechanic went to take the Front skid plate off he had to torch it because the bolts were all smashed flat.
Also when he got them burned off the plate had seen so much abuse that it was torqued and out of shape it sprung back and he said he almost got knocked out by it!!
It did its job though and no damage to anything under it so yay!
Got the skid used 4 years ago for $120... It has seen hard hits at the Cove x3, Rauch Creek x5, Uwharie x2 and other trails. It is from ASFIR 4x4 in Israel and is 1/4" Aluminium. I wanted to keep the weight down and these are 1/3 to 1/2 of most steel ones and save as much mileage as possible since it is still my daily.
New skids have been ordered.... same one... I figure that if it last this long with my abuse and that of the other owner and that I am not trying to go crazy it should last me another 5 years on this set if not more.
Here is the dead solider .....
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It seems like a pretty common issue, and I wouldn’t say there’s a lot of corrosion on this car. If the bottom rear bolts give you any trouble at all I would get one of those bolt induction heaters and make those things glow before you try and removal. It could save some headache and $ later.Man I hope I don't have that issue when I do brakes. Mine is a NYC car...
TBH my steel are bad too. Once you take them off you basically always need to bash or bend them in some way to get everything back on
I've only had my 80 off road a few times for the year that I've owned it, but each time I get a PS growl after being on the trail for a while. My fluid didn't look bad, but I decided to go with the Witt's End PS cooler setup and do a fluid change. At the time, Witts End didn't stock the "kit", so I pieced it together myself for about half of his listed price and got it installed yesterday. Fluid was a lot nastier than I expected once it was all flushed out, so hoping the combo of fresh fluid and the cooler will do the trick. With the Derale cooler, I think it holds about a half quart + more fluid, so that'll help with heat too. Now to get it out on the trail for a test!
In place of the paperclip cooler line and nicely protected with the winch plate...
Now the next project is to measure up my driveshafts for some new units...from the day that I bought it, I get a little clunk when accelerating from a stop. Hard to tell if it's a bushing somewhere or in the driveline, but I do know when I greased the u-joints and splines that it went away for a few hundred miles of around town driving. Thinking it's in the splines as the u-joints seem solid and all of my bushings are in good shape or have been replaced not too long ago. Most likely going with the Tom Woods double cardan units front & rear...probably not "necessary" with my amount of lift, but sounds like a decent upgrade if I'm going to do them anyway.
Thanks for the thoughts...unfortunately OEM shafts are not available anymore and would be my preference. Tom Woods can do a stock style u-joint as well rather than the double cardan, so I may call and discuss my needs. Also, they seem to be the best price and have tons of excellent reviews from 80 owners on both quality and customer service.Just get a couple new OEM drive shafts. No need at all to go DC shafts unless you have a symptom that might require it. I would bet OEM shafts will be less and they'll come with better u joints.
Excellent....I guess my search skills aren't so hot after all.Who told you they weren't available? I just bought both within the past year.
37110-60520 - Drive Shaft - 1993-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser | Sparks Parts
Drive Shaft - 3711060520. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door.www.sparksparts.com
37140-60340 - Drive Shaft - 1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser | Sparks Parts
Drive Shaft - 3714060340. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door.www.sparksparts.com
Looks great Eric.I've only had my 80 off road a few times for the year that I've owned it, but each time I get a PS growl after being on the trail for a while. My fluid didn't look bad, but I decided to go with the Witt's End PS cooler setup and do a fluid change. At the time, Witts End didn't stock the "kit", so I pieced it together myself for about half of his listed price and got it installed yesterday. Fluid was a lot nastier than I expected once it was all flushed out, so hoping the combo of fresh fluid and the cooler will do the trick. With the Derale cooler, I think it holds about a half quart + more fluid, so that'll help with heat too. Now to get it out on the trail for a test!
In place of the paperclip cooler line and nicely protected with the winch plate...
Now the next project is to measure up my driveshafts for some new units...from the day that I bought it, I get a little clunk when accelerating from a stop. Hard to tell if it's a bushing somewhere or in the driveline, but I do know when I greased the u-joints and splines that it went away for a few hundred miles of around town driving. Thinking it's in the splines as the u-joints seem solid and all of my bushings are in good shape or have been replaced not too long ago. Most likely going with the Tom Woods double cardan units front & rear...probably not "necessary" with my amount of lift, but sounds like a decent upgrade if I'm going to do them anyway.
Much appreciated!Looks great Eric.
@mgrs Motive Bleeders are the best break blenders I’ve found for the money!
I was looking at the Eldorado breakers but the e-brake pull is weird.
not sure. let me look and I might take you up on it. thank you.Inner or outer? I may have an outer seal if you want to get it fixed this weekend.