Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (5 Viewers)

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What do folks think of these types of spacers for lifting a truck? I like the idea of keeping the stock suspension but having a bit more clearance for rocks and taller tires too

Is it much better to go with new shocks and springs or would something like this be good? Any downsides?

Thanks for any guidance before I go down this path.


E000BBE5-3957-44B5-8742-4CC38A9411B0.png
 
What do folks think of these types of spacers for lifting a truck? I like the idea of keeping the stock suspension but having a bit more clearance for rocks and taller tires too

Is it much better to go with new shocks and springs or would something like this be good? Any downsides?

Thanks for any guidance before I go down this path.


View attachment 2713082
On IFS lift doesn't mean bigger tires. Just means they don't rub at the point. Also depending on how much the spacer lift is compared to shock length, you could be bottoming out your shock instead of the bump stops doing that work, destroying your shock.

I'd assume the front 2inch spacer could mean you bottom out the stock shocks when compressed.

Not against spacers. I have oem front spacers on top of the lift for extra height and 20mm in the rear
 
Message/troubleshooting question from a cville owner who isn’t on the forum. Don’t know how to solve it myself so I figured I’d pass it on.

Anyone able to help? We need help troubleshooting an ongoing short in a 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser where the battery keeps draining because of a hidden short somewhere. It is not an alternator or related issue as the battery can be recharged and it is fine when it is being driven regularly but when it sits for a few days it drains the battery completely. A friend suggested that we install a kill-switch and that we shut off the battery every time we shut off the car but this seems like a backwards way of solving the problem. We don’t really need the radio or the security system but if they can be salvaged in the troubleshooting process then we would be most grateful as safety is our key factor. The old lan cruiser was bought as a safety vehicle for a 17 year old daughter whom needs a tank to keep her safe! If you can help please feel free to reach out. So grateful! Thank you!

PM me and I can pass on contact info if you are able to help … I’m at a loss.
 
Message/troubleshooting question from a cville owner who isn’t on the forum. Don’t know how to solve it myself so I figured I’d pass it on.

Anyone able to help? We need help troubleshooting an ongoing short in a 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser where the battery keeps draining because of a hidden short somewhere. It is not an alternator or related issue as the battery can be recharged and it is fine when it is being driven regularly but when it sits for a few days it drains the battery completely. A friend suggested that we install a kill-switch and that we shut off the battery every time we shut off the car but this seems like a backwards way of solving the problem. We don’t really need the radio or the security system but if they can be salvaged in the troubleshooting process then we would be most grateful as safety is our key factor. The old lan cruiser was bought as a safety vehicle for a 17 year old daughter whom needs a tank to keep her safe! If you can help please feel free to reach out. So grateful! Thank you!

PM me and I can pass on contact info if you are able to help … I’m at a loss.
Have you tried putting a multimeter in between the negative battery cable and the battery while the truck is off and seeing if you can get a reading on the parasitic draw? Then you start by pull a fuse and put it back (try each fuse like this) until the draw gets close to zero. The fuse you pull will indicate which component is drawing power. In my 2009 gx470 it turned out to be the side mirror with it’s electric tilt function. I replaced the passenger side mirror actuator motor but it still had a draw. I saw there’s some sort of other electronics with the mirrors that can be replaced to solve it. I didn’t end up chasing it down before I traded in. Anyway, hope that’s helpful.


More info here- Post in thread 'Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?'
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pretty-quiet-in-here-what-are-you-working-on.785481/post-13609037
 
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Yep, parasitic draw, a short circuit would have blown a fuse or started a fire.

Don’t eliminate the alternator. A bad diode in the alternator will lower the output current but it will still charge a battery and then discharge it when the engine is off.

How old is the battery? Try swapping it with a known good battery. Batteries can have internal current drain issues when they get old or are defective. Also, measure the charging voltage. An over charged battery can have internal damage that reduces its capacity to hold a charge. Typical charge voltage is about 14.2 volts.

A suggestion, when hooking up the ammeter to measure the discharge current coming out of the battery, try not to interrupt the circuit. If you disconnect the battery the problem may reset. Connect a jumper wire to the battery cable/clamp and have someone hold the other end of the wire on the center of the battery post. Gently remove the clamp from the battery and then make a good connection with the ammeter between the clamp and the post, then remove the jumper wire. Acceptable parasitic current draw is a few milliamps.

Then it is the process of elimination to find the component that is causing the draw. Start unplugging all the fuses and relays until the current drops.

Good luck.
 
Well today I was able to get together with my buddy and install my new White Knuckle Sliders. My stock steps faithfully served as protection while wheeling and waiting for the sliders to come in. It was stated an 8 to 10 week lead and it was right on the money time wise.

Shipping was prompt and they arrived in good shape and well packed too. OH These things are beef too! 65lbs a piece if its an ounce!

It was fun getting the stock steps off... the brackets might have been damaged a bit LOL but again they were the sacrificial lambs to the trail gods. They took the beating so the rockers didn't.

Instructions could use some better descriptions but there were a few videos online that helped and well it isn't rocket science to figure these out either.

Started off on the Drivers side...

PXL_20210627_144040047_2.jpg



Look at all that clearance already LOL nothing like trimming the low hanging fruit!

PXL_20210627_145331149.jpg



and the slider ready to go on...

PXL_20210627_150627434.jpg



Staged and ready to get bolted in...


PXL_20210627_153731585.MP.jpg



bolted in and looks good and its solid...

PXL_20210627_183754453_2.jpg



next came the Passenger side...

PXL_20210627_175559202.jpg



once that side was done ... we trimmed the stock steps to give it a finished look... it is a Lexus after all!!

PXL_20210627_185536926.jpg



so it is all done and looking pretty good. It really makes it look like a truck now and not a soccer mom mobile that got lost on the way to Starbucks!!

Next will install some rock lights using the factory step harness. Waiting on connectors to arrive so I can plug them in or out to change them or replace them. I figure it is better then soldering them in place.

... and now look at all that clearance.... I could drive over several fire pits now!!!

PXL_20210627_183805457_2.jpg
 
Well today I was able to get together with my buddy and install my new White Knuckle Sliders. My stock steps faithfully served as protection while wheeling and waiting for the sliders to come in. It was stated an 8 to 10 week lead and it was right on the money time wise.

Shipping was prompt and they arrived in good shape and well packed too. OH These things are beef too! 65lbs a piece if its an ounce!

It was fun getting the stock steps off... the brackets might have been damaged a bit LOL but again they were the sacrificial lambs to the trail gods. They took the beating so the rockers didn't.

Instructions could use some better descriptions but there were a few videos online that helped and well it isn't rocket science to figure these out either.

Started off on the Drivers side...

PXL_20210627_144040047_2.jpg



Look at all that clearance already LOL nothing like trimming the low hanging fruit!

PXL_20210627_145331149.jpg



and the slider ready to go on...

PXL_20210627_150627434.jpg



Staged and ready to get bolted in...


PXL_20210627_153731585.MP.jpg



bolted in and looks good and its solid...

PXL_20210627_183754453_2.jpg



next came the Passenger side...

PXL_20210627_175559202.jpg



once that side was done ... we trimmed the stock steps to give it a finished look... it is a Lexus after all!!

PXL_20210627_185536926.jpg



so it is all done and looking pretty good. It really makes it look like a truck now and not a soccer mom mobile that got lost on the way to Starbucks!!

Next will install some rock lights using the factory step harness. Waiting on connectors to arrive so I can plug them in or out to change them or replace them. I figure it is better then soldering them in place.

... and now look at all that clearance.... I could drive over several fire pits now!!!

View attachment 2715597
I fully expected a spectacular looking sandwich to show up after you were done!
 
I fully expected a spectacular looking sandwich to show up after you were done!
Well I don't want to disappoint....

Grilled Chicken breast filleted with a bit of that whiskey glaze from the CRR.... with slightly cooked Red Bell Peppers ( so they are soft ) with Jung fresh baby swiss cheese on toasted sour dough bread...

PXL_20201006_163444805.jpg



now if your ever in Leesburg there is an AWESOME burger place called Melt.... you have to try it!!!!

Below is the Bacon and Blue Burger.... O M G this place is amazing!!


PXL_20210323_184703219.jpg




and to try to make everyone laugh.....


FB_IMG_1526033107798.jpg
 
Been trying to troubleshoot what's going on with the 200 instead of just throwing parts at it.. Anyone got ideas? From riding in the car the noise is coming from driver front, the video below noise gets loud when I'm on throttle. However, just riding in the car the noise is there whether gassing, coasting, or braking and obvious between 20-45mph. Then after that the wind noise takes over and you can't really here it but it's there.


In this video the noise starts around 0:15
 
Had the idea that my taco needed a rack, just because. Started looking through the parts shed and found girl's full size safari style roof rack for her jeep. She cant use it bc the height puts her over the dc garage height. It's been sitting in the corner for a few years now. The width is just inside my bed rails, so now I need cross load bars. I got to researching buy v build and settled on a bed rack instead. Buying load bars is stuck a few hundo, so I may as well go big.
This tuffstuff one
Screenshot_20210629-191102_Firefox.jpg


So, that should be cool. I can still use my tool box and still use the truck bed, mostly.
Now I wait till end next month for it to ship.

More ideas next week
 
Been trying to troubleshoot what's going on with the 200 instead of just throwing parts at it.. Anyone got ideas? From riding in the car the noise is coming from driver front, the video below noise gets loud when I'm on throttle. However, just riding in the car the noise is there whether gassing, coasting, or braking and obvious between 20-45mph. Then after that the wind noise takes over and you can't really here it but it's there.


In this video the noise starts around 0:15


Maybe I missed this but I don't see what kind of noise you're hearing in the car
 
Been trying to troubleshoot what's going on with the 200 instead of just throwing parts at it.. Anyone got ideas? From riding in the car the noise is coming from driver front, the video below noise gets loud when I'm on throttle. However, just riding in the car the noise is there whether gassing, coasting, or braking and obvious between 20-45mph. Then after that the wind noise takes over and you can't really here it but it's there.


In this video the noise starts around 0:15

I'll put $10 on wheel bearing.
 
Been trying to troubleshoot what's going on with the 200 instead of just throwing parts at it.. Anyone got ideas? From riding in the car the noise is coming from driver front, the video below noise gets loud when I'm on throttle. However, just riding in the car the noise is there whether gassing, coasting, or braking and obvious between 20-45mph. Then after that the wind noise takes over and you can't really here it but it's there.

In this video the noise starts around 0:15

The cadence in the 2nd video is in perfect sync with the rotation of the CV axle shaft. At first I thought the buckle on the band clamp was hitting something. I would swap out the CV and bet that settles it.
 
The cadence in the 2nd video is in perfect sync with the rotation of the CV axle shaft. At first I thought the buckle on the band clamp was hitting something. I would swap out the CV and bet that settles it.
I sure hope its not a CV. They aren't cheap..
 
Can't you get a new key cut by the VIN? Or you saying the cylinder is worn out?
Im thinking the tumbler in the door is shot, and the key is already worn to hell. May be a good time to just swap everything. If I can get a key cut by the vin, then I'll try that route first.
 

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