Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

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Hi guys,

It's been a while... My schedule has been booked on Wednesdays so it's hard for me to make it out to the meetings. Anyway, my cruiser has been wounded for a couple weeks now. I was driving home from DCA when the hard brake lines decided to explode(RUST). It happened on GW parkway, brake pedal to the floor, but I made it home safely. There was brake fluid on the driver's side rear axle and no fluid in reservoir. I 'm waiting for parts to come in and need to do more research on how to replace ALL hard lines and LSPV. I can still say it never left me stranded but I finally got AAA.
 
Glad you made it home in one piece Austin! hopefully your schedule will lighten up soon.
 
dbug said:
Hi guys,

It's been a while... My schedule has been booked on Wednesdays so it's hard for me to make it out to the meetings. Anyway, my cruiser has been wounded for a couple weeks now. I was driving home from DCA when the hard brake lines decided to explode(RUST). It happened on GW parkway, brake pedal to the floor, but I made it home safely. There was brake fluid on the driver's side rear axle and no fluid in reservoir. I 'm waiting for parts to come in and need to do more research on how to replace ALL hard lines and LSPV. I can still say it never left me stranded but I finally got AAA.
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Yikes. I suppose you still had front brakes. Exploding brake lines = bad.
 
Brakes Tech Day in our future? :idea: Maybe show how to use the club flaring tool? I'm sure more than a couple club trucks could use some brakes lovin.
 
I'm ordering rear rotors and pads from @beno tomorrow. That's easy though. Welding school starts in just a few days! Woohoo. When I put on my extended rubber brake lines bleeding the air out was a PITA. I've heard there is a specific order to minimize the back and forth, but
@OTRAMM and his handy brake bleeder tool made it fairly simple. It just takes time. As for bending and flaring hard lines, it's not too difficult if you keep the old ones for a template. I don't know if there is a huge cost difference though???? between preformed OE and doing in yourself? Never done an 80 but it has to be pretty much the same as anything else if you just follow the pattern.
 
Tried to start the 40 after it sat for a month cold. Fuel and air looks ok. Think the coil or ignitor is at fault. My multimeter is missing so I ordered another one. Couldn't find my spark tester either.

Had a charged battery so I figured I'd tinker with the trooper. Hoping that the mechanical spark plug damage was just from carbon build up in the cylinder. Forgot that the #3 plug was just sitting in the block, not threaded in. Cranked the engine and it ran like s*** for about 15 seconds loud as hell. Figured maybe it does have some bad rod knock. Tried cranking again and it wouldn't fire. Looked under the hood again and saw #3 plug disconnected and missing. Found it under the truck(oops), installed it, then tried cranking again. Felt like it would almost catch, but not quite. Likely that line/injector/filter all gummed up. Waiting on some Redline fuel system cleaner, a new fuel filter, and i'll dump in some new good fuel to see what happens. If it fires up somewhat regular I'll try cleaning the combustion chambers with water. At least when the engine cranks it doesn't sound bad.
 
Rebuilt my HiLift and started building a mount on my swingout. Need to get some hardware from Burl to finish it up.
 
Oil change on the '86, poked some holes through the exhaust, and flaked some of the engine paint off from project snowball. I wonder if headers would be worth the cost.

Dumped some Redline fuel system treatment and new fuel in the trooper. Prob change the fuel filter and see if it fires up in the morning. That is a fun little truck and it'd be nice for it to be mobile.

The headlights suck on my 97 4runner. Been debating some kind of light bar. A bumper mount might work, but the winch box pops up where I'd mount the bar. No room behind the grill either since I added the tranny cooler and the winch leads. I've got some ideas at least.
 
Devilmans Hand said:
Oil change on the '86, poked some holes through the exhaust, and flaked some of the engine paint off from project snowball. I wonder if headers would be worth the cost.

Dumped some Redline fuel system treatment and new fuel in the trooper. Prob change the fuel filter and see if it fires up in the morning. That is a fun little truck and it'd be nice for it to be mobile.

The headlights suck on my 97 4runner. Been debating some kind of light bar. A bumper mount might work, but the winch box pops up where I'd mount the bar. No room behind the grill either since I added the tranny cooler and the winch leads. I've got some ideas at least.
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Are the lenses cloudy or the lights under powered?
 
Stumpalama said:
Are the lenses cloudy or the lights under powered?
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Oddly enough neither. Toyota acknowledged the issue with a redesign of the lights a model year or two after mine. There are a bunch of aftermarket HID conversion options, but most of them are half assed and technically illegal. Suppose I could try and retrofit the latter style light housings into the 1997, but a light bar might be easier, more effective, and cheaper. The light bar allows for a compound array including driving, spot, flood, and IR for specialized night driving.

* well, ordered some cbi ditch light brackets and some rigid d series midnight lights to mount at the windshield.
 
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Brother Burl brought his tractor over and we laid down 3 tons of gravel over a moisture barrier so I don't have to work on the dirt / mud floor anymore.
 
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Devilmans Hand said:
Tried to start the 40 after it sat for a month cold. Fuel and air looks ok. Think the coil or ignitor is at fault. My multimeter is missing so I ordered another one. Couldn't find my spark tester either.

Had a charged battery so I figured I'd tinker with the trooper. Hoping that the mechanical spark plug damage was just from carbon build up in the cylinder. Forgot that the #3 plug was just sitting in the block, not threaded in. Cranked the engine and it ran like s*** for about 15 seconds loud as hell. Figured maybe it does have some bad rod knock. Tried cranking again and it wouldn't fire. Looked under the hood again and saw #3 plug disconnected and missing. Found it under the truck(oops), installed it, then tried cranking again. Felt like it would almost catch, but not quite. Likely that line/injector/filter all gummed up. Waiting on some Redline fuel system cleaner, a new fuel filter, and i'll dump in some new good fuel to see what happens. If it fires up somewhat regular I'll try cleaning the combustion chambers with water. At least when the engine cranks it doesn't sound bad.
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As cold as it's been out, if the trooper didn't run long before it shut down you may have just fuel washed the cylinders. No oil on the rings means not enough compression to fire. If it doesn't restart after sitting for a while try putting a bit of ATF down each spark plug hole (like a cap full). That should bring the compression back up and let it start. Just don't use too much.
 
OTRAMM said:
As cold as it's been out, if the trooper didn't run long before it shut down you may have just fuel washed the cylinders. No oil on the rings means not enough compression to fire. If it doesn't restart after sitting for a while try putting a bit of ATF down each spark plug hole (like a cap full). That should bring the compression back up and let it start. Just don't use too much.
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Cool. Was thinking about adding a few drops of atf or mmo. Didn't even think of blowby being an issue
 
I went out to pull the rear drive shaft off my 80 to get it retubed. Tried, unsuccessfully, for about 5 minutes to get one bolt loose and it was just too damn cold out there today. Those DS bolts are tough. I'm hoping my package from @beno (containing exhaust and O2 sensor gaskets, among other things) arrives tomorrow so I can at least get my exhaust buttoned back up before the storm.
 
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