Prepping and installing a new gas tank, filler neck and skid plate. (1 Viewer)

[Red Merle]

I am in the process of prepping a used tank for install along with a refurbed skid plate, filler neck, new fuel lines, hoses and gaskets. I am having a heck of a time getting the old paint and whatever is sprayed on as an undercoat off. I have tried Simple Green, Vinyl flooring stripper, two types of paint stripper(both the citrus stuff and the heavy chem Bullseye), oven cleaner, some ZEPP 505, paint thinner and scrubbing and elbow grease. No real progress.

I want to get this down to bare metal so I can use acid to get the few rust spots treated and then coat with POR 15 and then topcoat with chassis paint.

I already did the skid plate that way and the filler neck just needs to be top coated to finish it. I think it will hold up much better than the stock system.

I am reluctant to attack it with the angle grinder because I don't think it will work and I don't want to damage the metal.

Any ideas as to how I can get this cleaned up?

 

[slow95z]

Media blast it?

 

[BILT4ME]

I did a glass bead blast on the tank for my Studebaker. Best thing ever. Then I coated with (3) coats of POR15.

Make sure you cover all openings WELL. You DON'T want any beads in side your tank.

 

[Red Merle]

I will look into that. Would that vapor blasting tech work for this? The results of that were stunning. I am just worried about wearing away any metal and developing the classic crack. On that note, would you lead that or dump some epoxy on that area so that it prevents it from happening in the first place?

This is fairly in depth surgery that I would rather never do again. I think I might have bought the last few fuel lines and maybe the last one that goes to the canister. I am hoping whatever I do now will last another 25 years of getting coated with oil.

I would also entertain thoughts on doing something like a bedliner job on it too, after the POR15 as an added layer of protection, but I haven't worked with those products much and I don't know if that would be a good application in this case. Any other thoughts would be entertained at this point as long as it doesn't involve linseed oil and daily polishing.

 

[NV1971FJ40]

Just take down to a powder coat place and they will blast it for you! Easy!

 

[BILT4ME]

The bedliner will not stand up to the fuel if there was a leak or spill.

The bead blasting may actually HELP the issue with the crack because it will stretch the metal slightly, which it helps to "anneal" the steel in that area.
Mostly, the crack in the tank is caused because the check valve and the charcoal canister are not operating properly and the tank cycles between vacuum and pressure. It is the multiple cycles and how extreme they get before relief. My tank was almost always sucking IN when I removed the cap. Because my tank wasn't breathing like it should. Then, when it would warm up the fuel due to the recirculation, the tank would pressurize.

Once I swapped the VC120 in, my problem went away. I also installed a different tank from a LX because mine cracked on my LC.

I would NOT powder coat it though, because that paint cannot deal with the flexing of the wall of the tank.

 

[Red Merle]

The bedliner will not stand up to the fuel if there was a leak or spill.

The bead blasting may actually HELP the issue with the crack because it will stretch the metal slightly, which it helps to "anneal" the steel in that area.
Mostly, the crack in the tank is caused because the check valve and the charcoal canister are not operating properly and the tank cycles between vacuum and pressure. It is the multiple cycles and how extreme they get before relief. My tank was almost always sucking IN when I removed the cap. Because my tank wasn't breathing like it should. Then, when it would warm up the fuel due to the recirculation, the tank would pressurize.

Once I swapped the VC120 in, my problem went away. I also installed a different tank from a LX because mine cracked on my LC.

I would NOT powder coat it though, because that paint cannot deal with the flexing of the wall of the tank.

I am seeing the science behind wanting something that is flexible. I am wondering if the POR15 will be?

Any idea what Toyota used or do you think this stuff is a Ziebart type product? I think it's the latter and the Toyota paint comes off very easily.

If I could replicate whatever they used and cover the whole tank with it, I think it would hold up really well, assuming I prep the bare metal properly with some sort of flexible primer or base coat.

I have a new VC120 and my system currently functions properly, but the filler neck has terminal cancer, the skid plate is already dead and the gas tank looks like it is on it's last legs and I am sure the fuel lines will look like Carlsbad Caverns when I drop the tank. This is hopefully a one time job that is being done because I was starting to think not fixing it would be the Achilles Heel for Dorothy and I have spent way to much money on this pony to have it take a dirt nap because I couldn't put gas into it without creating a Super Fund site.

 

[Red Merle]

Has anyone ever used one of these? I ran into a guy at the auto body supply shop that told me that he had pretty good luck with one of these and I have been debating on whether to pull the trigger on one. I would rather buy a new tool than pay someone to blast the tank but if it isn't powerful enough to remove the finish on the tank it will be a waste of money.

http://www.tptools.com/Speed-Blaster-and-Hot-Spot-Spot-Blaster-Kit,7206.html?b=s*spot+blaster


I bought one of these kits about a year ago and it was pretty much useless. I don't want to waste any more money on something that doesn't work.

Sand Blaster with Tube and Hose (AT122601AV)

Also, what if I just left the stuff that isn't coming off, on there and just reapplied something else over it? Is that a dumb idea? Do you guys think I would be better off sticking with my original plan of getting it down to bare metal?

Any further thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[white thunder]

any suggestions on how to clean the insides of the tank? sat for 5 years with gasoline (now varnish) in the tank, lots of rust. picture shows just some rust I could pick up from the fuel pump area. Thanks in advance

 

[Red Merle]

I have heard of people filling the tank with vinegar to have that dissolve the rust. I don't have any first hand experience doing that in a tank, but I have cleaned rusty parts with vinegar with good results. Acid might also be an option, but I would want to be sure I got that all rinsed out before reinstalling it, same with the vinegar.

 

[white thunder]

I have heard of people filling the tank with vinegar to have that dissolve the rust. I don't have any first hand experience doing that in a tank, but i have cleaned rusty parts with vinegar with good results. Acid might also be an option, but i would want to be sure I got that all rinsed out before reinstalling it, same with the vinegar.

thanks! somebody did suggest muriatic acid wanted the check with the experts. cheers

 

[slow95z]

evaporust works. if you cant get it fixed let me know. i have a few good tanks.

 

[BILT4ME]

evaporust works. if you cant get it fixed let me know. i have a few good tanks.

I bought a replacement tank from him and it was shiny inside and worked perfectly after my tank cracked! How much are you going to spend for chemicals and time jacking around with his? Buy a replacement and ship it. It's less money than you think.

 

[white thunder]

evaporust works. if you cant get it fixed let me know. i have a few good tanks.

how much including shipping to SoCal?

 

[McDowra]

Just take it to a radiator shop and let them vat it, we also get the tanks epoxy coated on the inside there also.

 

[Red Merle]

Just take it to a radiator shop and let them vat it, we also get the tanks epoxy coated on the inside there also.

I am still trying to decide which direction I want to go. I am not going to have the inside of the tank treated though. People have mostly reported problems when they have done that. This tank is pretty clean, it just has a little surface rust on the top and on the edges in a few places. The inside should be good. Before I stored it last fall, I put about 20 desiccant packets inside of it and sealed it with tape and plastic. It was stored in the rafters of my garage.

I am still curious to see if anyone else has any ideas beyond POR15 for treating the outside.

 

[slow95z]

Might I suggest you cut the fuel line somewhere you can get to and put an inline filter. The factory filter is such a pain to replace. I got one from a hummer (military style) and use that. It's a really nice setup and will filter any rust out.

 

[Red Merle]

Might I suggest you cut the fuel line somewhere you can get to and put an inline filter. The factory filter is such a pain to replace. I got one from a hummer (military style) and use that. It's a really nice setup and will filter any rust out.

That's not a bad idea. I am getting brand new fuel lines and I just replaced the fuel filter about 10,000 miles ago though. I am pretty sure I am buying some of the last few lines available from Mr. T and if I screw up the inline filter idea, I might be hosed. How would you attach it to the cut lines? Are there fittings for that or would it be brazed on?

 

[slow95z]

I used rubber fuel lines and some hose clamps. Old school lol

 

[Red Merle]

Made some progress. I am mostly just going with the angle grinder here with a little bit of spot sand blasting on the rust patches. Lots of work, but it will end up good.

Those fuel lines are going to be a challenge but I want to get them in somehow.