Preparing to replace head gasket... What do I need? Where do I start? (1 Viewer)

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I have a 94 doing the exact same thing. I go through about 2 quarts between changes and when I’m parked on a hill, it smokes like crazy. Also like you, I’m not a skilled mechanic. From what I’ve read and been told (take it for what it’s worth), the valve stem seals are shot, and oil is seeping past an burning in the exhaust (I take it you park on a hill like I do?) The oil light is due to the pressure being low, because of oil seeping past the valve seals. I’ve been driving it this way for the past year and it still runs good despite the oil leak. I’ll get someone to do it and do it right at some point. If you do yours and feel up to doing it again after the learning curve, feel free to drive an hour south to Knoxville and help a fellow mudder out ;)
 
I have a 94 doing the exact same thing. I go through about 2 quarts between changes and when I’m parked on a hill, it smokes like crazy. Also like you, I’m not a skilled mechanic. From what I’ve read and been told (take it for what it’s worth), the valve stem seals are shot, and oil is seeping past an burning in the exhaust (I take it you park on a hill like I do?) The oil light is due to the pressure being low, because of oil seeping past the valve seals. I’ve been driving it this way for the past year and it still runs good despite the oil leak. I’ll get someone to do it and do it right at some point. If you do yours and feel up to doing it again after the learning curve, feel free to drive an hour south to Knoxville and help a fellow mudder out ;)

Correct about the oil getting past the valve stem seals, both when driving and later when parked (engine off). However, the 'light on the dash' is from the oil LEVEL sensor (low oil) and not the pressure. Just want to clear that up.
 
Correct about the oil getting past the valve stem seals, both when driving and later when parked (engine off). However, the 'light on the dash' is from the oil LEVEL sensor (low oil) and not the pressure. Just want to clear that up.

Thanks for clarifying, mine must be dirty then. Even if it’s full of oil, it still comes on and off occasionally.
 
My valve seals were leaking badly, to the point that I thought I had a hg peak. My engine seemed to have hydro locked and I broke a timing chain. After pulling the head, I had no signs of a hg leak, no coolant signs. Just a broken chain amd missing crank gear teeth. I replaced the timing set and hg and after reassembly, it started right up and runs with no smoke and better than ever.
 
Thanks for clarifying, mine must be dirty then. Even if it’s full of oil, it still comes on and off occasionally.

Mine did that as well. I removed it...cleaned it up real well and installed a new gasket. Replaced the connector while I was down there. No more 'false' low oil light. Of course....you always want to use the Dip Stick to verify oil level anyway (I'm sure you know).

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Sent a message to them for a quote. Also found a shop that specializes in engine repair. I am probably in deep on this cruiser... I think it may need some front end work as well. Wanting it to be worth the hassle for sure.
I'm in Knoxville, and considering another 80 to replace my totaled one. The one at the top of my list is a near perfect 40th Anniversary here in town. But, it has 244k on it. Zero indications of any issues and the baseling by the current owner is immaculate... However, if worst came to worst (and Ryan at Otramm did some radiator and other work on this very one recently) Ryan is who I'd trailer it up to do the work. Granted your quote was 3 years ago, but do you happen to remember what he said?

This is just future, worst case, budgeting.

Well, that and get a quote on an LS Swap if it comes to that...

Thanks.
 

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