Preemptive Part Replacement for the Future (1 Viewer)

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Apr 18, 2020
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Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Hello all,

I was just taking off the vacuum hose to clean my throttle body when I discovered the vacuum hose was rock hard and beginning to split. I'm going to go ahead and replace it, but this has gotten me thinking about what other parts might be preemptively replaced to get my 05 LX ready for what will hopefully be many years of adventures.

What are some other parts which might be similarly be replaced now to help plan for the future, a future which I expect will have limited parts availability?
 
I sent you a PM
 
For me what started with "hmm, I should replace some of the drivetrain bushes" is slowly transitioning to "considering the state of all the bushes I changed so far, maybe I should also go for the body, engine and trans mounts too". It's a rabbit hole indeed.

People always say "get a southern car, no rust!", which is true, but then you also get heat baked rubber - bushes, weather strips, hoses, etc. Easier to fix than rust, but in extreme cases has to be fixed nonetheless.
 
I've restored 8 Japanese vehicles over the past 10 years. They all have well over 150,000 miles and are "old enough to vote" when I get them. All from the ArkLaTex area. I usually start with refreshing the suspension bushings, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings. Then I move up to the engine compartment and start with gaskets, hoses, o-rings, and seals. I usually replace my own injector o-rings and screens. It just depends on the injector maker. I call this a mid-life refresh. I try to get through the process in the first 6 months of ownership. After the refresh, I've been able to enjoy on average 10 years of trouble free ownership. Sometimes a radiator, starter, or alternator will pop up after a few years.

Your 05 is a bit young to be worried about a mid-life refresh. I'm working on my 99 LX refresh at the moment.
 
Following up on this. Does anyone make a vacuum hose kit for the 2uz-fe?
 
Assuming you have done all the usual PM. I would do the following PM as well if you plan to keep the vehicle for the long haul that will prevent you for being stranded especially if you plan to travel off the beaten path.

1. Brake booster with accumulator
2. Ignition bracket assembly rod
3. Starter Rebuilt
4. Heater Ts
5. Alternator rebuilt
 
Assuming you have done all the usual PM. I would do the following PM as well if you plan to keep the vehicle for the long haul that will prevent you for being stranded especially if you plan to travel off the beaten path.


2. Ignition bracket assembly rod

What is this? Does this have to do with the key(ignition switch)?
 
Thanks. I am actually for all the other little hoses, tubes and pipes that connect to the air box resonator and beyond. Might be part of the gas evap system. Several of mine are badly crack and I suspect this is why my idle is rough on our 2000 LX.
 
I have replaced all of the major evap and vent hoses crawling over the engine and sides. Mine is a 2000 and they were all hard and shrunken leaving some loose clamps. There is no kit. I think its 6 hoses. Will run you about $300 for them all. You want that thing to breathe as good as day one. Also change

oil filler cal gasket
Tighten valve cover colts
New fuel filler cap
New pcv valve and grommet
Check torque on spark plugs

to find your hoses, put your VIN into partsouq and pour over all the drawings and order away
 
Thanks. I found some, but there are a few I can't identify. I will hit the parts store this weekend and see if we can sort it out.
 
Thanks. I found some, but there are a few I can't identify. I will hit the parts store this weekend and see if we can sort it out.
I replaced a ton of hoses by going on Toyota Parts Deal and looking at the schematic for the various systems. My build has been dead in the water due to an extensive house remodel. As soon as that’s done, I’m replacing the brake master cylinder and booster motor. I’ve already done the brake lines, pads, and rotors, and done a drain and fill on the fluid. It’s a rabbit hole for sure but you can learn a helluva lot about your truck chasing that rabbit.
 
300$ could get you enough silicone in 3, 3.5, 5, 6, and 8mm (4mm also I think) hoses to swap 7 or 8 100s. oh, PVC passenger side should be 14.5mm A little loose wouldn't matter, the stock VW size pcv hose fits fine If I remember correctly. OEM on PVC valve side. (all vvti)
 
300$ could get you enough silicone in 3, 3.5, 5, 6, and 8mm (4mm also I think) hoses to swap 7 or 8 100s. oh, PVC passenger side should be 14.5mm A little loose wouldn't matter, the stock VW size pcv hose fits fine If I remember correctly. OEM on PVC valve side. (all vvti)

@jerryb is the 14.5mm PVC passenger side hose measurement you mention above for the inner diameter of the hose? I am not in front of my truck for a while, otherwise I'd check. Thanks
 
14.1+or -mm OD on the nipple in valve cover.
14.5 hose ID. 15 will work also with stock clamp. But I don't use the stock air box. So my other end is a npt push fitting. Probably 5/8. hence the 15mm, a compromise for not finding brass 9/16 npt hose barb. not to concerned with 100% seal, just that no sand gets in there. I question how much air actually gets pulled in there.
pardon the dust.

PXL_20210913_221952309.jpg
 
14.1+or -mm OD on the nipple in valve cover.
14.5 hose ID. 15 will work also with stock clamp. But I don't use the stock air box. So my other end is a npt push fitting. Probably 5/8. hence the 15mm, a compromise for not finding brass 9/16 npt hose barb. not to concerned with 100% seal, just that no sand gets in there. I question how much air actually gets pulled in there.
pardon the dust.

View attachment 2785515

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Terrain tamer sells kids to replace your hoses. I saw this on YouTube when 4xoverland rebuilt his 100 series. This finding is supposed to be pretty good they get with the original OEM manufacturers and ask if you can make it better what would you do.

 

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