Pre-03 nav delete how-to (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter primeral
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks to all the hard work posted in this thread, everything is in and operating…Except the power antenna, which extends up about 3” & will not retract with the head unit powered on. Otherwise operating properly. Issues is constant +12V, so I will switch this at some point.
Would you care to do a full write-up? I know, sounds like a pain in the ass.
Did you run into any confusing steps with the re-pin route? How did you address the scenario when you have multiple wires that needed to go into the same pin location in the new harness (Ii.e 21G and 11G)? I'd prefer the repin route for cleanliness, but want to be sure I am going into it eyes wide open. Thanks!
Plenty of room left for a DSP one day lol
I'm sorry, I did not keep good enough notes/pictures to do a writeup on this.
Damn if I'm not already considering it as I'm trying to tune the system....Much exterior light work to complete first though!
The tuning gets infinitely easier once you can time correct, crossover, attenuate each driver and then smooth the frequency response!
There were a couple head scratchers.
After much back and forth thinking they have to be too good to be true and will never be as good as a soldered crimp and heat shrunk connection, I ended up using solder seal wire connectors. Get a good heat gun and I recommend a heavy duty welding glove to place between the heat gun and all the stuff...Which is most of the stuff...That you don't want to melt. Burn up a few as practice to get a feel for them. I think that the most important part, other than being patient enough to see the solder melt, is maintaining a horizontal orientation and not moving the wires when applying the heat. These things tend to pull apart and/or harden in less than optimal orientations. They burn the crap outa your fingers too.
I bought all new connectors, re-pinned, and used the links in this thread for the new pins and tools/picks...I think. I like the engineer crimping pliers for open barrel connectors. They make a solid connection but you have to crimp the wire and the insulation separately which is a pita. I have a ratchet crimper and dies that were the appropriate size, so used them most of the time. I was unable to use any of the original connectors that had to go into a different sized location in it's new home, they just didn't fit well and swapping connectors is super easy anyway.
For any situation where one source wire needed to go to multiple pin locations, I cut the source wire and added up to 3 new wires as needed with a solder seal connector. 2 wires in(1 Source) 2 wires out. I extended some of the shorter original wires too that made the final instasllation a bit tight. I was able to salvage enough wire lengths from the original looms to supply all the extensions and additional wires I needed.
I am an analy retentaive, partially dyslective, mechanical engineer with ADHD, so none of the pinout diagarms and descriptions in this post made any sense to me. Take your time to figure out the pinout numbering scheme first. Left to right, upper row to bottom row, connection side vs wire side...It's a special kinda thinking to get it straight. The hardest thing for me was actually figuring out which existing connectors were to be used vs not needed and only part of the Multi-Function Display. I have the service and electircal manuals, so figured it out that way. I absolutely was unable to wrap my head around it otherwise. Basically the small connectors along the top row of the MFD are not used at all....I tihnk. I'm better at figuring stuff out than following instructions.
I had to grab the antanea signal from the original radio plug, and I think the speed sensor and reverse signal for turning the backup camera on were both under the passenger seat. I tied them to a pin I know wasn't going to be used anymore on the old loom and just put those pins in the proper place. I used the existing amp on +12V under the passenger seat as the new Amp remote on signal.
If you are going to put hardware under the passenger seat, keep in mind that there are mechanisims that move under there that can(& will) break stuff if you mount it too high. I ended up removing most of the original Nav & Amp mounting brackets.
I did strip all the switched and bulbs from my "new" consule and replaced them with new per AC Illumination - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ac-illumination.748876/
I NEVER found an orange wire, and I don't care because it's the MUTE wire anyway.
Some good links here: Pre-03 nav delete how-to - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pre-03-nav-delete-how-to.947933/post-12428062
I tihnk I got all the pin extractors from cycle terminal, but only ended up using the smallest: Pre-03 nav delete how-to - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pre-03-nav-delete-how-to.947933/post-13523357
And most of the connectors & terminals: Pre-03 nav delete how-to - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pre-03-nav-delete-how-to.947933/post-14769455
Ok, I've procrastinated from doing real work for long enough today.
You're running the JL TwK88? Do you like it?
Know anything about the AudioControl DM-608? There's a good deal on ebay.
Thoughts appreciated.
Yep I have the twk88 and it's viewed by some as being "basic" but does more than enough for me.
Howdy!
So I got all the parts and pieces to get from a Levinson POS to the three knob controller. My LX is a 2002 w/ nav and rear A/C and heat. Got after it yesterday and thanks so much to TXSunDevil and all those that have gone before! So everything works and is connected correctly but I have 2 issues.
1. A/C in ON all the time. tried the 20-30 second hold Patassa mentioned earlier but no dice. Sill on always.
2. Bigger issue is the rear heat/ A/C. From the truck side, I have no wires that correspond to the pinouts for the rear portion of the conversion. I looked around for color matching wires, but was hoping someone has resolved this. See pic of the pinout guide, I highlighted the pins here that have no where to attach.
SO I'm looking for the LX to LC diagrams for the rear heat/A/C. I've got a few printed but for some reason my special rig just does not have the wires in the existing dash to accommodate the new 4 plug dash unit.
Thanks for any help and my apologies if this has already been posted. I made it like page 30 of this thread and am crosseyed.
Cheers yall!
So I got all the parts and pieces to get from a Levinson POS to the three knob controller. My LX is a 2002 w/ nav and rear A/C and heat. Got after it yesterday and thanks so much to TXSunDevil and all those that have gone before! So everything works and is connected correctly but I have 2 issues.
1. A/C in ON all the time. tried the 20-30 second hold Patassa mentioned earlier but no dice. Sill on always.
2. Bigger issue is the rear heat/ A/C. From the truck side, I have no wires that correspond to the pinouts for the rear portion of the conversion. I looked around for color matching wires, but was hoping someone has resolved this. See pic of the pinout guide, I highlighted the pins here that have no where to attach.
SO I'm looking for the LX to LC diagrams for the rear heat/A/C. I've got a few printed but for some reason my special rig just does not have the wires in the existing dash to accommodate the new 4 plug dash unit.
Thanks for any help and my apologies if this has already been posted. I made it like page 30 of this thread and am crosseyed.
Cheers yall!
Great work, if you read back through the thread IIRC those who had the rear heat option were having issues. I think what fixed that was finding the controller that also had the rear heat button. They all do not.
Yep. I read thru those. I got the exact same type of controller, with just the button that says "REAR". The dash just powers up the controller, I think. The problem is that none of the wiring for the rear heat has anywhere to plug into from the old/factory wiring and into the "new" unit. Maybe ill pull the rear ceiling control unit down and see if I can find some wires there that match up to the stuff in the dash. From the pinout diagram I'm missing all of the wires (6i to 4a, 9i to 17a, 7i to 16a, 2i to 26a, 3G to 7C) that are "supposed" to be there. They go to so I don't have the wires to splice into the "new" unit.
Does your vehicle have rear heat? Mine does not even though the rear AC controller above the rear seat has a temp adjuster.
Yessir. Rear heat, blower under driver seat, only blows on the floor register. And A/C that only blows thru the roof vents.
UPDATE.
So I have a second bezel and plugged that in. I can now turn A/C off. So likely a stuck button on the first bezel. Is there a way to pull the button cap and clean the terminals???
And the rear heat / AC does work if I turn it on from the rear controller, I just cannot turn it on/off from the front "REAR" button. Possibly another stuck button, again is there a way to remove this to clean it?
Also, the second unit that does "work" has a fan knob that is sloppy, is there a way to pull that puppy to shim it / tighten her up? I assume just pulling it straight out is the move, but would love to hear if thats the case or not.
Again thanks so much for all the help, especially from txsundevil for listening to me whine.
Cheers y'all and thanks!
So I have a second bezel and plugged that in. I can now turn A/C off. So likely a stuck button on the first bezel. Is there a way to pull the button cap and clean the terminals???
And the rear heat / AC does work if I turn it on from the rear controller, I just cannot turn it on/off from the front "REAR" button. Possibly another stuck button, again is there a way to remove this to clean it?
Also, the second unit that does "work" has a fan knob that is sloppy, is there a way to pull that puppy to shim it / tighten her up? I assume just pulling it straight out is the move, but would love to hear if thats the case or not.
Again thanks so much for all the help, especially from txsundevil for listening to me whine.
Cheers y'all and thanks!
Done. New Sony unit installed and everything is working as it should. AND sounds amazing! Local stereo shop that I got the unit from had time that day to install and sort out some new components and crossovers etc. Work a couple bucks in my mind.
I took apart the A/C controls and replaced the fan selector, pretty easy, just take your time undoing the cable from the circuit board.
Sorry I was confused by some missing wires on the pinout, They all work and are controlled by the A/C amplifier shielded wires on Plug A. So if you have rear A/C and heat, just trust the process. If it doesn't work, likely the buttons on the "new" unit are lousy.
Thanks again to those that blazed the trail. I'm so happy to be in the Analog dial world again.
I took apart the A/C controls and replaced the fan selector, pretty easy, just take your time undoing the cable from the circuit board.
Sorry I was confused by some missing wires on the pinout, They all work and are controlled by the A/C amplifier shielded wires on Plug A. So if you have rear A/C and heat, just trust the process. If it doesn't work, likely the buttons on the "new" unit are lousy.
Thanks again to those that blazed the trail. I'm so happy to be in the Analog dial world again.
