Pre-03 nav delete how-to (1 Viewer)

[Skitz]

I have a question for you folks that added a DIN or Double DIN headunit after the NAV delete.

Will this one fit?


View attachment 3860113

Sony XAV-AX8500

 

[lesgarten]

Sony XAV-AX8500

I'm looking at that one as well. It is a single DIN. Any thing needed to mount the main DIN unit? That looks pretty good BTW.

 

[Skitz]

I'm looking at that one as well. It is a single DIN. Any thing needed to mount the main DIN unit? That looks pretty good BTW.

No major issue mounting it... It installed pretty easy, I spent more time adjusting the screen... plenty of options to shift it up/down and side/side, I kept adjusting... but that was just me....

 

[Patassa]

Which Pioneer Head Unit? I am looking at those too.

Some model from pre 2020, couldn't even tell you anymore. They are all the same basically.

 

[cgennaro25]

I just completed this install. It was not too bad it just took more time than I hoped. I spent about 3.5 hours last night making all the terminations and prepping the harnesses. Today I spent about 3 hours attempting to tidy up all the wires and install the new stereo head unit.

I started with the pinout guide @primeral provided. I went through it box by box with my FSM and I had a few additional wires. I printed it out and wrote them in. I did catch an error in the FSM on terminal A9. The pinout guide is right but the FSM has it wrong on one page. I do not know how to modify and upload the pdf but here is a photo.
View attachment 1491993

I purchased the pigtails from a junk yard for $25. I mated them with a 3 knob controller for $100. I spent another $30 on the solder seal connectors. My first step was identifying the connectors on the back of the new 3 knob controller and labeling them. They are A,B,C,D across the back. I then used the terminal guide from the FSM and labeled every wire on the donor unit. I used envelope labels cut in thirds and wrote the terminal letter and number on them. Such as A-20, C-1 etc. This would prevent me from having to look at the terminals while wiring up the unit. I stripped all the wires while inside in the AC so it was easier. A picture of the harness prepped up.
View attachment 1491984


The first thing I did was remove the negative battery terminal. I removed the old control, radio and navigation screen. I was left with 9 harnesses total. The top 4 I labeled “M” and tucked them back in the dash. These were for the MFD controller and have no use in the non-nav system. The two radio harnesses at the bottom were removed and pushed aside. I then focused on the remaining 5 harnesses labeled E, F, G, H, I. I identified these with the picture primeral provided and I verified it with the pictures provided of the connector terminals in the FSM. Once I had the harnesses I was going to join together I began to cut. This was the point of no return. I tried to keep this as simple as possible. I did it one connector at a time. I started with G and cut wire by wire. As soon as I cut a wire from a G terminal I matched it with the pre stripped wire using the pinout guide. These wires were all loose. I had to tie 3 ground wires together on one connection so I used a solderless terminal. I also had to wire the stereo illumination into the vehicle illumination so that required a 3 way also. I used the solder seal terminals. They worked great. I used a butane cigar lighter. I was afraid a heat gun would be too much in the small confines of the dash. I cut a wire and connected a wire. I never had more than one wire cut off the terminal. This was done to prevent any confusion. The wires all matched colors on the dash side and pigtail side which helped. There were duplicate wire colors so you did have to know what terminal you were cutting. I only used all the wires off I and F. The other 3 had a few remaining wires. I wrote them all down and verified they were not needed. I cut the unused wires and capped them. The problem I had was I was soldering as I went. This prevented me from cleaning it up real well. I had 9 harnesses and wires were being crossed and soldered everywhere. It was tough to clean up and make it look nice.
View attachment 1491983


I powered it up and checked it all out. Everything worked including the passenger seatbelt light, hazard light, center differential, antenna up and down, rear defrost, rear ac and the air conditioner. I then installed a head unit. This was a pain because the mounting bracket on the navigation screen are not meant to be used with a double DIN unit. I had to drill a hole in each side to make it work. Ideally, I would source some brackets from another unit but the one screw per side and the bezel will prevent the stereo from moving. There it is a successful conversion from navigation to non-navigation for $155 plus a little IH8MUD know how.
View attachment 1491992
I spent around $350 for a new head unit, 4 new speakers and antenna adapter. The radio has two antennas. This install was done because I needed new door speakers because mine were blown and I ended up here. Go figure. I also thought the navigation system really dated the interior of the car.
View attachment 1491987

I have a new set of 4 connectors that plug into the back of the 3 knob controller and I have the 5 male connectors I removed from my vehicle. If someone is set on making a plug and play harness I have the 5 male matches that just need mates. That is all that is stopped this from becoming a true plug and play.

Hi do you still have extra harness for plug and play options

 

[TXSunDevil]

No sorry, I gave them away years ago

 

[AnthraxVX]

just a little update, another one done, not too hard, my amp took a dump, was going to repair it but upon taking it apart, found it was all conformal coated so was going to be a nighmare. I bought the 3 knob center a LONG time ago (probably 5 -7 years ago) knowing this day would eventually come. So bought a cheapo android auto head unit and a little 4 channel amp and began rewiring. it only lets me upload 5 images, Here is a link to my google drive with a buncha images of the conversion:
LX470 HVAC Conversion Google Drive

The head unit came with a backup camera, but i already had one of those installed with the naviks backup camera, so i used the new one as a front camera, pretty cool for cresting while offroading. Dont mind the car being so dirty, i havent cleaned it since King of the hammers XD.

I basically just needed audio since i run my phone with a secondary screen running samsung DEX so its like having a tablet, but all through my phone so i dont have to manage gaia gps on a tablet separately from my phone, and i dont need a separate data plan for the tablet, since its just my phone

 

[lesgarten]

just a little update, another one done, not too hard, my amp took a dump, was going to repair it but upon taking it apart, found it was all conformal coated so was going to be a nighmare. I bought the 3 knob center a LONG time ago (probably 5 -7 years ago) knowing this day would eventually come. So bought a cheapo android auto head unit and a little 4 channel amp and began rewiring. it only lets me upload 5 images, Here is a link to my google drive with a buncha images of the conversion:
LX470 HVAC Conversion Google Drive

The head unit came with a backup camera, but i already had one of those installed with the naviks backup camera, so i used the new one as a front camera, pretty cool for cresting while offroading. Dont mind the car being so dirty, i havent cleaned it since King of the hammers XD.

I basically just needed audio since i run my phone with a secondary screen running samsung DEX so its like having a tablet, but all through my phone so i dont have to manage gaia gps on a tablet separately from my phone, and i dont need a separate data plan for the tablet, since its just my phone

Nice Job!

Got a couple questions:

Did you manually solder all the connectors instead of using the solder splices that you heat up with a lighter?

What was behind the glovebox?

Any problems bracketing/attaching the Head unit?

RCA Jacks? pic # 203756

What was the Light Gray Overspray in Pic # 233758

I bought my 3 knob setup longer ago than you did I think!

 

[AnthraxVX]

Nice Job!

Got a couple questions:

Did you manually solder all the connectors instead of using the solder splices that you heat up with a lighter?

What was behind the glovebox?

Any problems bracketing/attaching the Head unit?

RCA Jacks? pic # 203756

What was the Light Gray Overspray in Pic # 233758

I bought my 3 knob setup longer ago than you did I think!

I did manually solder them, not preferrable for moving wires but they dont move that much and shouldnt really be an issue and added tessa tape at the end to act as a strain relief as well as heat shrink tubing on each wire.

I didnt use the low melt solder heat shrink tubing mainly because i dont have that many of the same size

I went behind the glove box so it was easier to run a coupla wires to the head unit from the amp area (RCAs, Reverse signal, and i had a backup camera going to that area when i used the naviks backup camera nav interrupt device)

For image 203756 i opened that area up to run 1 rca mono for the sub, before i was using high level input to the amp (from the stock amp subwoofer speaker wire, converted to RCA and JL subwoofer amp set to high level input) The reason u see it sprayed white, was i figured while i had it all opened up, i might as well 3d scan the area because the sub box there right now is a hair undersized as i fiberglassed into the stock box a JL 10TW3-D4 many years ago.

The spray itself is just alcohol mixed with baby powder (now just made of cornstarch) i didnt want to use the sublimation spray since that stuff is expensive and i use it only on sensitive items

haha yeah i htink a lot of people buy it in preparation and just dont do it till they have to, if ur in the socal area ill help you out

Oh and i couldnt find any brackets for sale that convert to dual din, so what i did is i taped the head unit to the 3 knob peice, removed the vents, that gave me access to the side brackets and i drew an outline of the side brackets onto the head unit itself, took it apart, lined up the brackets with my outline, drilled holes into the bracket AND the head unit lol, only needed to drill one on each side of the head unit as the head unit did have one other bolt on each side that did interface with the brackets in the car, then drilled those holes through both the bracket and the head unit, bolted it ot the brackets, then bolted it into the car as you would normally.

what a lot of people would be confused about is probably how the front door 3 way speakers are wired. I found that the mids and tweeters are wired together, probably with a high pass filter from the mid to the tweeter to prevent damage and then the 6.5" driver is wired separately. Now i only wanted to run a 4 channel amp so what i did is wired inline with the mid/tweeter a capacitor that has falloff starting at 600hz at 8ohm, then wired the mids/tweeters with the main driver in parallel into the amplifier channel, 2x 8ohm drivers in parallel = 4ohm. Sounds ok with a little eq adjustment (toning down the highs)

I will be using my UMM-6 and REW to measure my frequency response and see what my levels are. If u run a 6 channel amp u can just run the mids/highs on their own channel and set high pass to whatever you want, then the mids with a lowpass of sub 400hz, then the rears as normal.

 

[lesgarten]

I did manually solder them, not preferrable for moving wires but they dont move that much and shouldnt really be an issue and added tessa tape at the end to act as a strain relief as well as heat shrink tubing on each wire.

I didnt use the low melt solder heat shrink tubing mainly because i dont have that many of the same size

I went behind the glove box so it was easier to run a coupla wires to the head unit from the amp area (RCAs, Reverse signal, and i had a backup camera going to that area when i used the naviks backup camera nav interrupt device)

For image 203756 i opened that area up to run 1 rca mono for the sub, before i was using high level input to the amp (from the stock amp subwoofer speaker wire, converted to RCA and JL subwoofer amp set to high level input) The reason u see it sprayed white, was i figured while i had it all opened up, i might as well 3d scan the area because the sub box there right now is a hair undersized as i fiberglassed into the stock box a JL 10TW3-D4 many years ago.

The spray itself is just alcohol mixed with baby powder (now just made of cornstarch) i didnt want to use the sublimation spray since that stuff is expensive and i use it only on sensitive items

haha yeah i htink a lot of people buy it in preparation and just dont do it till they have to, if ur in the socal area ill help you out

Oh and i couldnt find any brackets for sale that convert to dual din, so what i did is i taped the head unit to the 3 knob peice, removed the vents, that gave me access to the side brackets and i drew an outline of the side brackets onto the head unit itself, took it apart, lined up the brackets with my outline, drilled holes into the bracket AND the head unit lol, only needed to drill one on each side of the head unit as the head unit did have one other bolt on each side that did interface with the brackets in the car, then drilled those holes through both the bracket and the head unit, bolted it ot the brackets, then bolted it into the car as you would normally.

what a lot of people would be confused about is probably how the front door 3 way speakers are wired. I found that the mids and tweeters are wired together, probably with a high pass filter from the mid to the tweeter to prevent damage and then the 6.5" driver is wired separately. Now i only wanted to run a 4 channel amp so what i did is wired inline with the mid/tweeter a capacitor that has falloff starting at 600hz at 8ohm, then wired the mids/tweeters with the main driver in parallel into the amplifier channel, 2x 8ohm drivers in parallel = 4ohm. Sounds ok with a little eq adjustment (toning down the highs)

I will be using my UMM-6 and REW to measure my frequency response and see what my levels are. If u run a 6 channel amp u can just run the mids/highs on their own channel and set high pass to whatever you want, then the mids with a lowpass of sub 400hz, then the rears as normal.

Glad I asked these questions...

 

[rbrave]

The reason u see it sprayed white, was i figured while i had it all opened up, i might as well 3d scan the area because the sub box there right now is a hair undersized as i fiberglassed into the stock box a JL 10TW3-D4 many years ago.

Any chance you can share the scan / ultimate build? Would be super interested to do something like this. Also interested in making sail panels for alternate wideband or tweeter options, have a spare set but haven’t been able to determine the best way to scan them.

 

[AnthraxVX]

Any chance you can share the scan / ultimate build? Would be super interested to do something like this. Also interested in making sail panels for alternate wideband or tweeter options, have a spare set but haven’t been able to determine the best way to scan them.

once i get it completed i might do it, might even print them, fiberglass the inside for extra strength n sell um, so they are direct bolt in, but u have to cut that interior rear quarter to fit the sub (as you can see in the pic, mine is cut to accommodate my old work)

 

[lesgarten]

once i get it completed i might do it, might even print them, fiberglass the inside for extra strength n sell um, so they are direct bolt in, but u have to cut that interior rear quarter to fit the sub (as you can see in the pic, mine is cut to accommodate my old work)

Post here if you decide to do that, I'd be in for that.

 

[AnthraxVX]

Post here if you decide to do that, I'd be in for that.

i will, right now doing the tailgate storage, my old carpet was bending/cracking so i couldnt put it back on so i scanned the trunk and used some 1/8" aluminum to make the deck, mapped out a cutting template for the metal and for the tailgate frame, printed them and taped them together, ordered some compression latches and piano hinges. The piece of aluminum wasn't long enough that i had so i had to weld 2 pieces together.
If you want to take a look here are the images : LX470 Tailgate Storage Images

Ill do the subwoofer afterwards and post some info up. maybe make a new thread but ill let you know for sure (this is my A.D.D. in action btw )

 

[lesgarten]

i will, right now doing the tailgate storage, my old carpet was bending/cracking so i couldnt put it back on so i scanned the trunk and used some 1/8" aluminum to make the deck, mapped out a cutting template for the metal and for the tailgate frame, printed them and taped them together, ordered some compression latches and piano hinges. The piece of aluminum wasn't long enough that i had so i had to weld 2 pieces together.
If you want to take a look here are the images : LX470 Tailgate Storage Images





Ill do the subwoofer afterwards and post some info up. maybe make a new thread but ill let you know for sure (this is my A.D.D. in action btw )

This is a good place to land your ADD tendencies. These things last forever and become heirlooms.

 

[mikeymouse]

I just wrapped up this nav delete on my 2001 Land Cruiser. I've created an updated pinout spreadsheet for this specific year if anyone can find it useful. Cheers!

 

[lesgarten]

I just wrapped up this nav delete on my 2001 Land Cruiser. I've created an updated pinout spreadsheet for this specific year if anyone can find it useful. Cheers!

I have a 2002, think this would work for it?

 

[Unrulykid]

I have a 2002, think this would work for it?

I did the Pre-03 Nav Delete on my 2002 LX about 3 years ago… maybe longer, can’t remember when…

This is the pinout I used and it worked flawlessly.

Much homage to the pioneers who compiled this information.

 

[mikeymouse]

I have a 2002, think this would work for it?

I bet it would get you close!

 

[ryan25391]

I was under the impression that a right hand drive bezel would work for my lx470 so I ordered one from overseas and now that I have it the wiring diagram is completely different. Has anyone had this issue or know a solution. Here is a picture of what my A harness looks like. Completely different than what the chart shows. The other 3 harnesses are different too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!