Boom, welcome to the club. "Trust the process" is right, the Pin out guide we used and worked on should work for almost everyone. Congrats bringing your LC/LX into the 2020s. Even 2021 200 series don't have carplay/android auto. It's a game changer, and one of the main reasons I'm able to keep driving a 23 year old vehicle.
Pre-03 nav delete how-to (54 Viewers)
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Boom, welcome to the club. "Trust the process" is right, the Pin out guide we used and worked on should work for almost everyone. Congrats bringing your LC/LX into the 2020s. Even 2021 200 series don't have carplay/android auto. It's a game changer, and one of the main reasons I'm able to keep driving a 23 year old vehicle.
What did you end up going with? If the twk, there are some incredibly lengthy and verbose JL audio video's out there on Youtube, but really the principles of tuning they cover is applicable to any DSP. The videos are way too long, too much talking, and a huge time sink but worth it to get the 30m or so of material you need to do a great tune. What drivers are you using? I've been dicking around with car audio since the late 90s and I've never had a system sound as good as mine does right now.
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Two options for the "sloppy knob":
1. Pull it very carefully with a piece of foam in between the jaws of your pliers to keep it from scratching (proved impossible for me due to the design, the knob edges taper out so it's hard to get a good grip). There is a a nut and washer behind it that allows you to tighten it up.
2. Buy a new knob (they're very inexpensive and available from Partsouq) and replace it after tightening the assembly.
FWIW, this had been going on in my '99 for years and it made a huge difference to get it tightened up. I ended up replacing all three of the knobs.
I grabbed the AC but have not added it yet.
Infinity Kappa 603CF - Front
Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MKII - Rear
Kicker Solo-Baric L7S Series 8" sub
YESSIR! One of the bezels had a few buttons that just did not want to work. So I tried the other and all is well. BUT, it had a sloppy fan selector knob. So I replaced it. Not just the knob, but the entire switch off of the circuit board. It was not a sloppy knob, but a sloppy dial/rheostat. Just take your time with the Philips head screws on the back and three on the board, undo the nut on the knob, and the 9? wire connection and plug a new one in.
So yes, sometimes the actual knob is wobbled out, but the switch was bad on mine. so I got to do some more intricate sleuthing. TO PULL KNOBS, I used a 2" piece of 3M VHB tape on the knob and just a pair of pliers. sticky and reusable for this scenario. If you don't have some around, its super handy.
Thanks again for the help lads, much appreciated. Now on to the powered sub under the seat.
Thank you to all who contributed to this swap.
I managed to convert my 02 LX470 with nav & ML to a LC 3 knob, everything works except the Radio antenna UP/Down button. I connected the Power Antenna wire from my stereo to the 13A slot which I got from the 02 EDW (Resources section). Upon starting the car, antenna expands to only about maybe 4 inches and then doesn't really respond to the Up/Down button.
Do I have a bad button or should I re-check my wiring for the 5th time
I know I have some wires that are unused/didn't match - related to the Rear Heat (not sure if I have it) but I want to ignore those as everything else is working perfectly.
So just want some help here, how should I troubleshoot or fix the Rear AC button? Please help!!
I managed to convert my 02 LX470 with nav & ML to a LC 3 knob, everything works except the Radio antenna UP/Down button. I connected the Power Antenna wire from my stereo to the 13A slot which I got from the 02 EDW (Resources section). Upon starting the car, antenna expands to only about maybe 4 inches and then doesn't really respond to the Up/Down button.
Do I have a bad button or should I re-check my wiring for the 5th time
I know I have some wires that are unused/didn't match - related to the Rear Heat (not sure if I have it) but I want to ignore those as everything else is working perfectly. So just want some help here, how should I troubleshoot or fix the Rear AC button? Please help!!
Were you able to get the ML system fully functional utilizing the factory amp and speakers?Thank you to all who contributed to this swap.
I managed to convert my 02 LX470 with nav & ML to a LC 3 knob, everything works except the Radio antenna UP/Down button. I connected the Power Antenna wire from my stereo to the 13A slot which I got from the 02 EDW (Resources section). Upon starting the car, antenna expands to only about maybe 4 inches and then doesn't really respond to the Up/Down button.
Do I have a bad button or should I re-check my wiring for the 5th time
So just want some help here, how should I troubleshoot or fix the Rear AC button? Please help!!
Regarding your power antenna issue… Could you elaborate a little bit more?Thank you to all who contributed to this swap.
I managed to convert my 02 LX470 with nav & ML to a LC 3 knob, everything works except the Radio antenna UP/Down button. I connected the Power Antenna wire from my stereo to the 13A slot which I got from the 02 EDW (Resources section). Upon starting the car, antenna expands to only about maybe 4 inches and then doesn't really respond to the Up/Down button.
Do I have a bad button or should I re-check my wiring for the 5th time
So just want some help here, how should I troubleshoot or fix the Rear AC button? Please help!!
I have found that in some cases ( disconnecting then reconnecting the battery) the power antenna will automatically raise itself about 4 inches.
But I have also found that you can manually raise the antenna mast to full height by pushing the antenna up button. This seems to reset the travel limit and the power antenna functions normally after that… i.e., upon starting the car and turning on the stereo, the power antenna will automatically raise itself to full height, and upon powering down the car, the antenna will return to stored position.
So, step by step, what is going on with yours?
No, my amp was partially bad, some speakers were not working and some had extremely low volume.
I am replacing the whole system with an aftermarket headunit Atoto A6PF, Stinger MT1000.5 amp and replacing all 11 speakers to 4 ohms and so far trying to make it work without the 708113 harness. From my understanding, all I need is Power, ACC and Ground wires from that plug connected to my head unit. Then I'll be using 5 RCAs to the amp and use factory wiring from amp to the speakers. It is in progress and I might fail because upgrading this many components is new to me. Trying to finish up this panel and then focus on the amp/speakers.
Correct, so starting the car/radio raises it about 4 inches and then it doesn't go further up by pushing the antenna Up button. Not that it matters neither makes sense to mention, but I have tried lowering it with the button to no luck. I am guessing it doesn't go down any further than 4 inches with the button.
What exact wires are required for a fully functional antenna up/down button on the 3 knob panel? I don't see any antenna related tags in the updated pin out pdf file.
Also, there are a few pin guides available. Is there one available with all the legends? I downloaded the pin guide from here and some wires have missing "Wire Purpose". This will help narrow down my search. Thanks!!
This is the pre-03 Nav Delete master sheet that I used…
You could also read through this thread…
Power Antenna wiring with new radio
Hello I searched through as many posts as I could find and did not get the answer. When installing a new pioneer radio can anyone tell me how do you get the power antenna to work there doesn’t seem to be anything to hook the blue wire up to coming out of the radio. I thought I saw somewhere...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks a lot!This is the pre-03 Nav Delete master sheet that I used…
View attachment 3775585
You could also read through this thread…
Power Antenna wiring with new radio
Hello I searched through as many posts as I could find and did not get the answer. When installing a new pioneer radio can anyone tell me how do you get the power antenna to work there doesn’t seem to be anything to hook the blue wire up to coming out of the radio. I thought I saw somewhere...
Appreciate to those that posted up information to get this done. It has helped big time since about the biggest issue in my skillset I have is trying to understand electrical. KISS never applies as I always over think it. Outside of doing the speakers and HU; I am able to knock out upgrading my door lock motors, replacing the master window control module, wiring up my 3rd taillight with Baja lights, rear camera, dynomat the truck, clean the whole inside, install new seat covers, and modify the rear and mid aisles to include USB connections and 12v lighter options.
Just a heads up.
I will hopefully get around to making one to simplify things for new comers. Going to try making premade wiring harnesses for plug and play to streamline this as well. Thanks again for everyone's information. 6 years without music in the vehicle was annoying and because of this thread, I am able to hopefully finally have something outside of AM blaring on crusty speakers.
Just a heads up.
- Double Din brackets sold by Toyota are discontinued and I can't seem to find them anywhere. Not even in Japan.
- I modified mine by drilling into the stock NAV bracket to use it. Works perfectly fine. Duct tape was on standby.
- Links for the PDF/Excel on the first page don't work. At least for me.
- Don't forget the two 2" front mid door tweets. No one seems to mention these when replacing their system.
- When you have the door cards off, now is a good time to replace the door lock motors.
- Speaker size:
- Front x2; 1" tweeter, 2" tweeter, 6-6.5" woofer
- Can install a crossover but will have to twist in both tweets to the tweet lines unless you have a 3 channel cross over.
- Rear x2; 4" woofer dual voice coil or woofer with 1" tweeter available to install on the side. There is a bracket that is already installed.
- Subwoofer: 8" Sub.
- Can expand to 10 with mods
- Front x2; 1" tweeter, 2" tweeter, 6-6.5" woofer
- You can use the old speaker lines, you just have to cut into it or use their connections and find the speaker wires to and from the ML Amp so you can wire it into your aftermarket one. I find this easier than running all new wire.
- Dynomat is roughly 125-150sqft depending on if you include doors
- Cool thing about doing this is you get to thoroughly clean the inside and it makes you feel like you have a new vehicle when all said and done.
I will hopefully get around to making one to simplify things for new comers. Going to try making premade wiring harnesses for plug and play to streamline this as well. Thanks again for everyone's information. 6 years without music in the vehicle was annoying and because of this thread, I am able to hopefully finally have something outside of AM blaring on crusty speakers.
Hi Everyone Firstly Thanks for creating this thread, I have done the conversion on a 2000 model cygnus Japanese Import and I am having the exact same issue as @Sean81 where we have very cold rear air con but front is blowing warm, heater works fine but it blows ambient air when set to cool. Did You ever get to the bottom of this issue? The other Issue is my vehicle has a center console fridge and this is no longer working. I have seen nothing about this on the forum has anyone got this working?
Good day I managed to find the cause of my air con not working. On the Japanese spec 100 series Cygnus there is a magnetic valve that sits underneath the left front headlight which controls the front air con. This has power on ignition and is supposed to earth to the air con controller somehow. The earth is a solid blue wire that comes into G14. To make the Aircon work I am going to splice this into one of my other ground sources so it is on all the time.
I have a question for you folks that added a DIN or Double DIN headunit after the NAV delete.
Will this one fit?
Will this one fit?
The base will for sure, not sure on the screen clearance on the button for your new knobs though. Try it and let us know! If I was upgrading head units I'd want something that has tilt adjustment for the glare. My glare makes my screen unreadable sometimes
Do I need new mounting ears for the Double DIN Chassis? I have a 2002 LC with NV presently and have the Bezel for Nav Delete.
I don't think I needed any, the stock ones worked for my pioneer head unit.
Which Pioneer Head Unit? I am looking at those too.
