Pre-03 nav delete how-to (7 Viewers)

[aedgington]

Went for one of the MOOKAKA units. Looks like there's a newer version out that bumps the resolution to 1920x1080, upgrades PX6 to a Snapdragon, and goes from Android 10 to 11. We'll see how it goes. I'm going to test the climate controls before getting an amp/speakers. Hopefully it isn't cow poo.

 

[youpers]

Also did this but went with a 10" display.

 

[Haydogmc]

Finally got around to completing this yesterday. Just follow the pinouts and this project is totally doable even if you have no prior experience with electrical wiring. It's been said many times, but is worth repeating - thank you to the members that pioneered this project and made upgrading the dated nav system possible for the masses. Now for installing the modern head unit! I am using the Beatsonic 82 AAD harness as it seems to be the most reputable (and priciest) "plug-and-play" option that is compatible with the ML amp and speakers.

 

[Haydogmc]

I’m labeling my harnesses now. I don’t have rear heat. On plug C I’ve got a discrepancy. Yellow wire in 10, blue/red in 9, and black/yellow in 8? The diagram shows 10 as open. Also none of the wires show as yellow. Any thoughts?

So I have one rogue wire. Yellow in space 10 of plug C. Any idea what this is for?

I had a yellow wire in C10 as well. Did you ever find out it's purpose? I capped mine off with heat shrink.

 

[Dzaster808]

I have this same Yellow wire at C10 as well.

I also had no wire in A-16 and the 7-I was not in the non-Nav connector either.

My Auto and Off buttons don't work and some of the other buttons will work if I mash on them or keep pressing.

I also have an issue with illumination. The backlights on the Clock and AC setting LCD's work but the buttons don't have back light. When I wire in E-9 to D-10 and I flip the vehicle lights on, the LCD back lights shut off and I still get no back light from the buttons.

Anybody resolve these issues as I have read others in this thread mention having experienced them but it was not clear how they resolved it.

Appreciate any help I can get. Thank you.

 

[Unrulykid]

I have this same Yellow wire at C10 as well.

I also had no wire in A-16 and the 7-I was not in the non-Nav connector either.

My Auto and Off buttons don't work and some of the other buttons will work if I mash on them or keep pressing.

I also have an issue with illumination. The backlights on the Clock and AC setting LCD's work but the buttons don't have back light. When I wire in E-9 to D-10 and I flip the vehicle lights on, the LCD back lights shut off and I still get no back light from the buttons.

Anybody resolve these issues as I have read others in this thread mention having experienced them but it was not clear how they resolved it.

Appreciate any help I can get. Thank you.

In reference to your comment about needing to mash on the buttons to get them to work…

When sourcing a non-navigation console bezel, it is difficult to determine how the previous owner cared for and treated the donor vehicle. All of these parts are right around 20 years old or more. The OEM style button contact has a finite lifespan, and many of them are worn out or nearing the end of their lifespan.

100 Series Button Repair How-To - A/C, Defrost, Recirc etc

April 2020 edit - after 18 months, everything is still working great! Edit - Its been about 5 weeks of daily driving since i did this and all the buttons are still working great! Hi All, I have taken tons of valuable info from this site and now it is my turn to contribute something. This...

forum.ih8mud.com

are used the information contained in this thread to replace the buttons on my NAV delete project… It was very easy and very inexpensive, and it works wonderfully.

 

[Dzaster808]

Thank you for thay link. I was going to try and clean up a couple buttons but I didn't want to do too much as if it needs that much work I'd rather return and search for another in better shape perhaps. I will try cleaning the non-working buttons to see what I get.

 

[Unrulykid]

Thank you for thay link. I was going to try and clean up a couple buttons but I didn't want to do too much as if it needs that much work I'd rather return and search for another in better shape perhaps. I will try cleaning the non-working buttons to see what I get.

If you can solder, it is not difficult to replace the controls buttons on the printed circuit board… as I recall, new button cost was $1.19 each. I purchased several extras just in case, but did not need any of the extras.

I highly recommend a GOOD solder sucker… Japanese manufacture ENGINEER makes a very nice one. About $30 but it is MILES better than the cheap stuff.

And while you’re doing the buttons, you can replace any non functional lights in the same fashion. That’s what I did… I refreshed the entire unit… it now performs like brand new. All of the lights and all of the buttons work every time.

 

[Dzaster808]

Cleaned the Auto and Off buttons and they work perfectly. Now gotta go through and clean the rest.

Still got no lighting on buttons tho.

 

[Dzaster808]

I'm doing a full sound system on thus LX and wondering having done this conversion, can I just remove the amp and NAV comouter that's under the seat without issue? I see grounds to body that I'll leavin place.

 

[Dzaster808]

Actually it's the CD changer not NAV brain under pass. seat

 

[XAlent]

On mine the power and earth for the factory radio are fed from the factory amp under the seat so if you remove it you have to bridge these wires at the two plugs. From memory I think illumination was as well. They're easy enought to find if you have a EWD. You can remove the nav cd/ computer from under the seat no problems.

 

[Dzaster808]

Thats very helpful as I'm about to wire in the aftermarket stereo and amp. My EWD won't be here in time so hopefully I cna probe them.

 

[Haydogmc]

Thats very helpful as I'm about to wire in the aftermarket stereo and amp. My EWD won't be here in time so hopefully I cna probe them.

I am in the process of doing this too. Do you need to attach a wire on your aftermarket stereo's harness to a parking brake wire? I need to and can't identify the parking brake wire from the LX. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the insight. Sounds like I need an EWD as well...

 

[Dzaster808]

I am in the process of doing this too. Do you need to attach a wire on your aftermarket stereo's harness to a parking brake wire? I need to and can't identify the parking brake wire from the LX. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the insight. Sounds like I need an EWD as well...

I usually install a Parking Brake Bypass adapter with my head units so I don't need to hook up to parking brake. They are cheap online and most audio stores will carry them.

 

[Dzaster808]

On the '01 LX470 w/ ML audio I did not have to loop any wires to use the Metra adapter mentioned in post #1. Alreadynhad power, ground, Acc. But I did have to bridge 2 pairs of wires to get the driver/front working.

Also got all the buttons working again by disassembling the buttons. Tedious but worked so worth it.

Still do not have back-lit buttons but I'm waiting for manual to troubleshoot that better and just confirm what all the rest of the wires are left from the conversion.

I tore a couple buttons but I just took from the Navi unit.

 

[Dzaster808]

For the lights to work I had to sort through the EWD. Found that I needed to connect up the E10, 11, 22 had to be connected like this.

Also nearly all the non-LED bulbs in the unit were bad. It was weird as some. would test to work then ai test them again and they didn't. So I replace them. Got them installed and still didnt work. It was the aftermarket bulb holder holds the leads close to the center of the bulb but when you drop into the socket on circuit board the leads we set to inboard to land on the contact points of to socket. I just move bent the leads out some to make contact.

Just in case anyone encounters same issue.

Everything is working now! Thanks everyone.

 

[A67auto]

I think I can do this, does anybody have the spread sheet with the pin out?

 

[Unrulykid]

I think I can do this, does anybody have the spread sheet with the pin out?

When I performed the NAV delete on my ride, I took the time to read every post in this entire thread, in hopes that I could glean the most information possible.

I would recommend the same, if you’re about to undertake this endeavor.

But here you go…

 

[A67auto]

When I performed the NAV delete on my ride, I took the time to read every post in this entire thread, in hopes that I could glean the most information possible.

I would recommend the same, if you’re about to undertake this endeavor.

But here you go…

That’s what I’ve been trying to do. I’m familiar with terminating and pinning connectors. I just want to get an idea of what I’m looking at.

Thank you for the sheet