Pre-03 nav delete how-to (4 Viewers)

[luvmylx470]

Yes, thank you for the reality check, I had it coming to me for trying. I will likely live with this for a little while and start the hunt for another. If anyone has a wiring diagram for the LX "E" plug lmk as a one switch difference is brutal to accept - See pic of E plug in LX. Meanwhile - defrost will act as my AC. - And let these comm's serve those in the future = you MUST find a matching control as stated previously by others. And if I find a way - I will share it with an update.

 

[merbesfield]

If you're smart enough to find this forum and can understand what people are posting, you should be able to do this. I've done two nav conversions - a 2002 using this thread and a 2007 using another thread - and I had never soldered a wire in my life prior to that. Get the right tools, take your time planning in advance, practice soldering or solder seals on scrap wires, and you should be good to go. It's much better if you have a spare car so that you won't feel rushed if you need to take a few days off to get a new part or tool or bounce a problem off the forum here.

I can tell you from experience, the hardest part is cutting the first wire out of an existing wire bundle. That's when you'll feel you can't easily go back. I can also tell you from experience that the result of having a modern stereo is FANTASTIC. I'd especially recommend it for any LC or LX that feels like it's got 5+ yrs of life left in it.

@kgrove thanks for the encouragement. I am in the process of doing the conversion on my 05. Once that is done, I will start to get serious with the 02 for my daughter. Fortunately, she doesn't get her license til April 2021 so I have a little time.

 

[Lar Cruiser]

Does anybody have a pinout diagram or similar for the factory nav unit itself? (not the dash plugs referenced in this guide)

I've been through this whole thread and have searched but cannot find it.

Thank you in advance if anybody can provide it.

 

[kgrove]

@kgrove thanks for the encouragement. I am in the process of doing the conversion on my 05. Once that is done, I will start to get serious with the 02 for my daughter. Fortunately, she doesn't get her license til April 2021 so I have a little time.

Those two (05 vs 02) are definitely different flavored nav conversions. The 05 is more difficult to source the right parts, but assuming you get the right harness from Jerry, it's pretty straight forward once you have the parts. The 02 is WAY easier to source parts, but there is a lot more wire splicing... great documentation, but feels more intimidating in some ways to those like me lacking experience in that area. It's kind of a mixed bag... 03 and newer, Jerry has done so much work on your behalf there's not tons of ways to go wrong, but there also isn't as much documentation and support, I presume because the parts are so much harder to source that fewer people seem to have done the conversion. The 02 and older is a little more "hands on" as nobody can build a harness to remove some of the complexity, but there is more documentation available so you feel like you're just following a recipe.

On both, the first part is essentially re-establishing control of the HVAC and other systems after removing the touch screen, then the second half of the project is just a stereo installation. There's almost no difference in the stereo aspect of the two vintages of nav deletion... all the differences are on the "controls" side. My suggestion would be to use the same stereos, speakers, etc on both projects so that you can at least have a few lessons learned from the first one to make the second go faster.

 

[merbesfield]

@kgrove I have Jerry’s harness and all the parts have been ordered for my 05. Just waiting for actual delivery as some came from Middle East. So far I have probably about half he parts in hand and remaining are all in transit.

For the 02 if I remember what I have read, I need the 98-02 non-Nav A/C control panel and the same stereo mounting brackets I am using for my 05. The a/c control panels are out there so not too worried about finding one of those.

 

[thefamilyrig]

Missed one of the mag clutch wires when working through this, found yesterday, and hooked it up. Everything works perfect now.

I then re-tried my Rhino Radio for the pre-03 LC's and everything works great. AC controls are not as nice as the std LC but the radio should be pretty nice one I get it all hooked up.

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Hey @BillZ260 ! Im new to the website. I saw your pictures and if im reading your comments correctly you switched from a Nav system of an LX470 2002 to the Tesla style screen is that correct? If this is true man I sure hope I can steal a couple of minutes of your time and ask a couple of questions.

The fact is, since I bought my LX the screen was never working which got me to this thread after months of searching. So since I started reading from the very begining I figured that if someone was able to switch to non nav screen maybe someone was crazy/genius enough to switch to the Tesla Style. I even contacted the guys from Rhino Radio but once I sent them the image of my dash they said it couldnt work. (im guessing its due to the fact you first had to switch to the non nav wirring).

Basicly wanted to know if this is true (if I can purchase the radio from Rhino radios and make the swap). I figured that if buying the climate control on ebay plus the head unit was going to sum up to the same as the Rhino unit, I'd definetly go for the last one as you did. What are your thoughts on the radio? Any chance you could upload a video? Thanks for the help!

 

[kgrove]

I need help diagnosing a problem: I thought everything worked fine, but noticed the power antenna does not move - doesn't matter if it's when I use the radio or the manual up/down buttons on the dash, it just stays in the down position at all times. I'm not sure why I didn't notice this earlier as it's so obvious... brain fart I guess. I can't remember for sure whether the antenna was working before I started or not... I think so, but I may have just not thought about it since the radio gets a good signal even with the antenna down.

I've come up with several possible problems:
1) Head Unit wire harness not properly connected to antenna lead (this is my leading candidate as I don't remember even thinking about the antenna power wire at the time)
2) Plug D, pins 17 and 18 not properly connected to 19E and 7E respectively (not high on my probability list since every other connection
3) antenna motor dead
4) manual up/down switch bad (this would only be the core problem if this switch being dead also interrupted the head unit trying to signal the antenna motor when to move).

Anyone have a simple explanation of how this wiring all works together? Clearly if the motor itself is dead, it would explain everything. Does the manual dash antenna up/down button use the head unit connection to the antenna to signal up/down? Or do the HU and the manual switch send completely separated signals to the motor and neither require the other to be functional or properly connected?

Any other suggestions for probable causes? What would be your recommended testing process to identify which problem is the real cause with the least amount of wasted effort?

No big deal if it never gets fixed. I still generally get pretty good radio reception as I usually only use the radio to listen to sports radio around town. On longer trips and when I'm out of range of big cities or in the sticks, I usually would be playing music from my phone or would have the stereo off. It would be nice to fix this, however, just to complete the picture and solve my OCD issues.

 

[dmark84]

I had a friend help me who has the tool to remove the taps from the connectors and reconnect them to the spot where they go in the new connector. Made it so much cleaner and only had to splice a few of the wires as needed or were different sizes.

I am surprised nobody mentioned this.
I’d much rather re-pin than splice/solder.
@JaromT do you have a link to that tool?

 

[GorData]

I have a digital control setup with wiring pig tails from a 2002 non-navi LX that I want to sell. Was going to install it but thinking of getting rid of the truck now. Looking to get $350 plus shipping for it. Send me a Private message if anyone is interested.

 

[dmark84]

Answered my own question. It is pretty easy to extract pins with the right tool.
I know I will still have to splice a couple, but this should be cleaner than soldering every connector.
Planning to dig into this project in the next week or so, I will report how it goes.
Thanks to all who have gone before for the research and documents.

 

[dmark84]

That was easier than I thought it would be! Still had to use about 10 solder connectors (including grouped grounds), because a few pins had different widths from old connectors to new connectors.

Everything is working great except the clock minute button (might need cleaning), and the A/C switch. Tomorrow I will double check my wires related to that.

 

[JaromT]

I am surprised nobody mentioned this.
I’d much rather re-pin than splice/solder.
@JaromT do you have a link to that tool?

No sorry. The friend was a car electrical specialist and he just had it. Good luck! Mine is still working great!

 

[dmark84]

For anyone interested, I ended up using a 0.9 mm extractor tool from Cycle Terminal. There might be a better tool, but I was still able to release the pins with this one after some trial and error.

 

[thefamilyrig]

For anyone interested, I ended up using a 0.9 mm extractor tool from Cycle Terminal. There might be a better tool, but I was still able to release the pins with this one after some trial and error.

Hey Mark what tool did you use to place them back? Did it give you a hard time? Is everything running good? BTW nice job you, really clean!

 

[dmark84]

After you extract the pins using the tool, they just slide right into the new connector and snap into place.
There is a plastic “bridge” bar that locks all pins when you are finished with the entire connector.

Pay close attention to the pin width. If you look at the back of your new control panel pins you’ll see what I mean.
I followed the spreadsheet swapping pins, but a few “skinny” pins ended up in “fat” slots.
Those are the ones I had to reuse the original pins and do the traditional solder splice for.

So far everything is working mint except for my A/C button. I tried long press to reset it as mentioned in this thread.
The A/C light goes on and off when I mess with temperature on auto. My guess is the button is crusty or I mis-wired something.
I am going to double check everything again in the daylight.

 

[thefamilyrig]

After you extract the pins using the tool, they just slide right into the new connector and snap into place.
There is a plastic “bridge” bar that locks all pins when you are finished with the entire connector.

Pay close attention to the pin width. If you look at the back of your new control panel pins you’ll see what I mean.
I followed the spreadsheet swapping pins, but a few “skinny” pins ended up in “fat” slots.
Those are the ones I had to reuse the original pins and do the traditional solder splice for.

So far everything is working mint except for my A/C button. I tried long press to reset it as mentioned in this thread.
The A/C light goes on and off when I mess with temperature on auto. My guess is the button is crusty or I mis-wired something.
I am going to double check everything again in the daylight.

Nice! Good luck @dmark84. Also where did you find the wiring harness? Or did you happen to get it along with the dash panel? Looking for the wiring pigtails only but not easy to come by.

 

[dmark84]

I was lucky to score a panel with harness from someone here on MUD

 

[crocslx470]

I have a digital control setup with wiring pig tails from a 2002 non-navi LX that I want to sell. Was going to install it but thinking of getting rid of the truck now. Looking to get $350 plus shipping for it. Send me a Private message if anyone is interested.

View attachment 2511205View attachment 2511207

I'm interested, but your mailbox seems to be full

 

[Tidalk]

No, just get one that matches the buttons you currently have on your bezel

Just finished the Delete thanks for the contribution man!

head unit metra harness doesn’t fit for some reason on the new head unit..

Prob gonna take it to a shop for that I guess..

 

[Tidalk]

Although everything works right now, every time I put the key in the ignition, and all the lights start to cycle.. I hear the short burst of beeps (I think when the car thinks it’s skidding) then stops.

anybody encounter this?