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Do you have a cruiser club in your area or a friend with a 100 series no nav. You can swap and try the other controller? It would take 10 minutes to swap bezels between the units. It would rule out your controller or your wiring
Ok. I'm about at the end of my rope here. Still no A/C.
I picked up a power probe which has been super helpful, here's what I've done so far.
-Checked/replaced all fuses
-Ebay HVAC ontrols are clean
-All wires have good continuity across my connections
-All grounds check good
-All wires are matched to same color wires and were done one at a time
-C12 (yellow/green) is listed as a ground, but mine wasn't. I grounded it. No change.
-Swapped my D12 and D13 to ensure I hadn't mixed them up. They were right.
...am I missing anything obvious?
Ok. I'm about at the end of my rope here. Still no A/C.
I picked up a power probe which has been super helpful, here's what I've done so far.
-Checked/replaced all fuses
-Ebay HVAC ontrols are clean
-All wires have good continuity across my connections
-All grounds check good
-All wires are matched to same color wires and were done one at a time
-C12 (yellow/green) is listed as a ground, but mine wasn't. I grounded it. No change.
-Swapped my D12 and D13 to ensure I hadn't mixed them up. They were right.
Controls
-Hazards/CDL check good
-Bottom row of buttons checks good but are sluggish compared to the old Nav ones
-Temp dial works, defog works
-Ambient air temp shows blank. Redid the connection, it checks good. No change.
-All others in the middle HVAC specific area are inop. Some kick on and light up like when defog is pressed, but all are unresponsive to press.
At this point it's looking similar to @erwall's situation starting back at #317.
So next moves will be:
-Check continuity between spliced connectors and where they are in the PCB inside the controls?
-Buy another set of controls with a return policy for sanity check?
...am I missing anything obvious? I've been splitting this up among other work so I can maintain the slightest bit of patience. This is absolutely killing me.
Dude, where at in MS? I'm in Gulfport.Wish I could, unfortunately I don't. There's some LC guys down here but everyone I know has a 40, 60 or 80. I'm the only one with a built 100. Plus I can't leave my city due to work restrictions for COVID. I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy another set of controls whenever I can find some on ebay. Worst case I can return it I guess.
If that doesn't work, I guess I'll take it to the stealership...? Not too many japanese specialty shops in Mississippi. Though I have my doubts that they would even work on this. Anyone have experience with that?
Check continuity from mag clutch signal wire(s) (at the new soldered in plug) to the relay? Test the relay with that power probe and work back to the signal.
Was having the same issue. I started another thread. Start the truck, turn AC On. Trigger the cluch on AC, if that's all that's missing then do the above. I was missing 1 of the 2, yeah, TWO Mag Clutch signal wires.
I haven't done mine yet, but am getting ready to do it. My impression was that matching the connector position was the important thing, not the colors. Sometimes the colors won't match the matrix, but the position is the position in the connector. You are mainly swapping positions not colors.
Dude, where at in MS? I'm in Gulfport.
Awesome, thanks. I'll give that a shot. I just read thru your thread, I'll give it a shot Thurs. Only question I have is when you say there are 2 Mag Clutch signal wires, are you refering the two I circled? Or are you saying there's a total of 3, and that two need to go into A7?
View attachment 2312183
If that doesn't work I'm gonna have to take this somewhere. My sanity can't take much more. To add insult to injury just got my sound system working and it's humming so now I've got to dig into that too, along with the new motor in the passenger rear door actuator that's apparently DOA, and finally I messed up something un-installing the alarm system and now I can only lock the doors from the remote. It's been a real great week.
Yup, you're right. I labeled everything and did one wire at a time. The only technique I messed up was removing labels as I went to get them out of the way. You should definitely keep those labels on until you test it.
I moved all the wires that I was supposed to using the numbers on the excel. I was just saying that I also verified that the colors match and they do (on all but one), since I don't have the tags on where they came from anymore.
Columbus, so like 4 hrs away.But I appreciate the thought!
Again, big thanks to all of you who have contributed. These videos are meant to be an overview of this process and not all inclusive of every step. I think between these 4 videos and this thread anyone who can cut and strip a wire and use a lighter to make these connections can do this job.
Do I have to remove the factory amp or can I leave it and use it? Also I do want to remove the Nav DVD drive. Can I remove it and leave the factory amp? Thanks for any help. I am almost ready to dig in!
Yes, you can keep the factory amp if you prefer .
You should be able to sell the DVD unit and the Nav ScreenThanks!! I have an 02 LC not an LX. It will be best for me to remove the Nav DVD from under the seat won't it? At the very least if I ever sell the old NAV screen unit then I can throw the DVD in with it.
Thanks for the info!
You should be able to sell the DVD unit and the Nav Screen
Edit: Yes, remove the Nav DVD unit from under the deat
So I did the nav delete last December. I can't say enough about how helpful this thread was. Special shout outs to @TXSunDevil and @primeral for their detailed write ups. Extra thanks to TXSunDevil for answering my questions while I was working through it. Many thanks.
I recorded this video of my experience after it was mostly complete. It isn't anything fancy, but I go over what I did, how it looks/works, where I routed things, grounds, etc. I am a total novice with electrical systems, so hopefully my experience will help others in similar situations.
Link to my experience.
It's been half a year since this project and here are my thoughts:
- Do it. The climate controls and modern head unit are a game changer. Nothing else to say.
- This project cost me just over $1000, but I have sold most of the components so far and have already broken even.
- Invest in a good sound system. My sound system was about $150 for the speakers and $120 for the sub. MISTAKE. The sound quality is very poor. I have been reading other threads and it seems like you don't get into the good systems until you are in the $500+ range. I have been saving and will upgrade at some point. For now, the sound is not as good as the factory.
Good luck! If someone as electrically-incompetent as me can do it, you surely can too. This thread is a gold mine.