Pre-03 nav delete how-to (7 Viewers)

[primeral]

Nice, I remember you mentioning moving, but didn't see SA. I have a White 02 live inside 410 near the Quarry. Hope SA is working out well for you

@TXSunDevil I'm not far from y'all. We are in Alamo Heights. Met someone with a white 02 yesterday. Wasn't you was it?

SA has been good. We were in apartments in the far NW side getting used to our blended family situation and last year we bought a house in Alamo Ranch. Life has stabilized (outside of our pandemic) so one day I hope to meet you folks.

 

[BillZ260]

Was it working before?

Yeah, but I was wondering if my last water crossing might have killed it. This morning I tested: (with my new PowerProbe, if you don't have one get one, has already paid for it self, easy to use and very handy when trouble shooting stuff like this)
+Triggering the AC Mag Clutch manually, works engine on/off
+All Fuses and Relays associated, all ok, and working
+My new connection from B14 (Blue Wire) to relay signal, connection was good

So, I'm guessing it's maybe low refrigerant, or maybe another issue with the control ECU? I'll stop bothering you all here and bother you in another related thred.

For my contribution, I'll add what I did was essentially followed the provided wire guide/map, wrote the EFGHI locations and highlighted where each from to wire was coming from. I'll snap a pic and add as reference. I taped this to my steering wheel along with the FSM print out of the EFGHI Pin # Layout, which helped speed up locating the CUT wire. I also marked the top right #1 of all supply and ABCD blocks with a black sharpie to keep that corer referenced. Again, this was to basically keep me from mixing up any thing. I did make one mix up between F2 and F5 but caught it when i did the second wire, and was a simple rewire. I also found the white heat shrink solder connectors melted much faster so I tried to use them on all the smaller gauged wires first. I should be ready for the rhinoradio coming in this week, i'll post pics.

Thanks everyone that's been contributing to this over the years. Made it super easy to do, if not really speed up the work :/

 

[BillZ260]

Here's my version of the cheat sheet. Basically almost made it Bill proof.

 

[BillZ260]

Started a new thread. Wondering if I missed a wire, but litterally everything works, ac clutch doesn't stay enguaged but I'm thinking i'm missing a connection, or, the controller is bad for the AC.

AC Troubleshooting Help

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[BillZ260]

Started a new thread. Wondering if I missed a wire, but litterally everything works, ac clutch doesn't stay enguaged but I'm thinking i'm missing a connection, or, the controller is bad for the AC.

AC Troubleshooting Help

forum.ih8mud.com

Missed one of the mag clutch wires when working through this, found yesterday, and hooked it up. Everything works perfect now.

I then re-tried my Rhino Radio for the pre-03 LC's and everything works great. AC controls are not as nice as the std LC but the radio should be pretty nice one I get it all hooked up.

 

[fblainen11]

Missed one of the mag clutch wires when working through this, found yesterday, and hooked it up. Everything works perfect now.

I then re-tried my Rhino Radio for the pre-03 LC's and everything works great. AC controls are not as nice as the std LC but the radio should be pretty nice one I get it all hooked up.

View attachment 2278734

What the?!??!!! Link please! And video of this operating!!!

 

[TXSunDevil]

Great to hear you got it working Bill!! Why the big screen over the Double DIN? All the stuff I have read claim those screens are real wonky.

 

[jhollander]

What the?!??!!! Link please! And video of this operating!!!

There's a whole thread about the Tesla screens. I think a wire got crossed here...

 

[prwillard2]

There's a whole thread about the Tesla screens. I think a wire got crossed here...

The tesla screens are only compatable with 03+ LC/LX470's. Or so they said.

 

[BillZ260]

Great to hear you got it working Bill!! Why the big screen over the Double DIN? All the stuff I have read claim those screens are real wonky.

A local 100 Buddy convinced me to try it, and honestly the only Dbl Dins out there that were interesting to me were over 800 bucks so I figured I'd try it. I'm at about a 6 or 7 out of 10 on functionality but it's not fully installed and I'm working on getting an aftermarket amp and speakers in the front doors, when I get all that I'll add it to my build and link it here. Speed and reactivity are pretty good, but again, i'm not 100% installed.

There's a whole thread about the Tesla screens. I think a wire got crossed here...

I wanted to show that I not only got the Nav to Non-Nav conversion done, but that this was an option, there were some other members that mentioned it. But maybe I did cross pollinate.

The tesla screens are only compatable with 03+ LC/LX470's. Or so they said.

Rhino Radios has a new version out for the manual control LC pre'03. I had to do the Nav Delete first, and then jack around in the settings to get it to work right, but it's working. I'll post more in my build thread, in like 5 or 6 years lol.

 

[brauski]

I ran into some trouble. Converting an 02 LX w/ ML & Nav to pre-03 digital LX HVAC controls and Alpine ILX-W650. Followed the pin-out guide to the best of my ability, but it seems I messed something up. Dealing with two issues after the project and I'd apprecaite some help!

1. Digital controls don't function. They light up, but it seems that no buttons function outside of Ant up/down, Temp, Diff lock, and hazards (though some buttons have lights on)

2. No sound. The PO had lots of extraneous wiring, so I jumped at the chance to remove some assuming it was dealing with the Sirius, or the two RCAs he mounted in the dash. I refoamed my sub awhile back, and noticed after it still didn't work that it wasn't getting voltage. I assumed the ML amp had a bad channel. Now I'm starting to think that the PO ran his own wires to speakers and left out the sub or something. Any opinions on this? Here's some pics, the sticker came off the black cylinder.

I'm gonna go back right now and make sure I got a good melt on all the solder, but figured I'd get this posted so hopefully someone who's had a similar issue could help ASAP. Thanks in advance guys.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Quadruple check the pinout wiring. Sounds like a ground may be missing or a wire got put in the wrong spot. I am not sure on the stereo wiring. I am sure others will chime in

 

[brauski]

Quadruple check the pinout wiring. Sounds like a ground may be missing or a wire got put in the wrong spot. I am not sure on the stereo wiring. I am sure others will chime in

Rechecked them this morning for the 3rd time. I'm 99% sure I spliced the right wires, as I labeled everything and went 1 wire at a time. Only abnormality is that my Non-Nav pigtail had D12 blue/white and it's going to green/red - but it looks like other people have had that. Everything is going to the proper color and all the connections look good. I even went thru the remnants of the Nav pigtails, wrote down the remaining wires, and crosschecked them to ensure I didn't need any of them. They checked good.

At this point I'm wondering about the connections themselves. Is it possible to check for voltage at any/all of the pins using a multimeter and a ground? Or is there another way to troubleshoot this that I'm missing? Or I know it's unlikely, but now I'm starting to wonder if my eBay HVAC control set is faulty...

Edit: Used a wire that gave me good voltage when connected to chassis ground to check grounds. All the grounds check good except for the yellow/green on plug C. I'm gonna redo that one, but even when I use the multimeter on the bare wire from the dash I'm not getting ground. Weird.

Also, now the defrost, rear defog, and mirror heat work, but not every time I push the buttons. Most times they stay unresponsive. What could cause that? Bad pin/connection for ground?

 

[TXSunDevil]

There is a troubleshooting section in the FSM. See post #544 by @BillZ260 and it links to the troubleshooting steps for the AC.

 

[BillZ260]

I kinda went through some of the same, so after some reading, I pulled my entire LC HVAC control apart and started cleaning and actually testing all the buttons, because some folks have had switches or buttons go bad. Yours being the LX version 'manual' control, looks like all buttons, you might pull it apart and check for dirt/gunk. I cleaned and checked continuity on almost everything in that control, very tedious but a bit of fun. But it ended up being a wire I missed.

You can also try continuity checks from your connection PIN to the relay or other end of the circuit. I bought a Power Probe which made this trouble shooting power and grounds a lot easier. On the lead continuity, I set my volt-meter to BEEP and made a long lead and tested away.

On yours, I'd question the control unit if you have triple checked the connections. Maybe just needs a clean?

 

[brauski]

There is a troubleshooting section in the FSM. See post #544 by @BillZ260 and it links to the troubleshooting steps for the AC.

I kinda went through some of the same, so after some reading, I pulled my entire LC HVAC control apart and started cleaning and actually testing all the buttons, because some folks have had switches or buttons go bad. Yours being the LX version 'manual' control, looks like all buttons, you might pull it apart and check for dirt/gunk. I cleaned and checked continuity on almost everything in that control, very tedious but a bit of fun. But it ended up being a wire I missed.

You can also try continuity checks from your connection PIN to the relay or other end of the circuit. I bought a Power Probe which made this trouble shooting power and grounds a lot easier. On the lead continuity, I set my volt-meter to BEEP and made a long lead and tested away.

On yours, I'd question the control unit if you have triple checked the connections. Maybe just needs a clean?

Thanks guys. I invested in a PowerProbe, thing sounds amazing (and perfect timing, my cheapo multimeter is getting ancient). Unfortunately, it won't be here for a week. In the mean time I'll check fuses while I wait to see if I somehow blew something and if that's why it's giving me issues.

I'll also give the controls a clean. I do have my concerns, the knob is pretty lose making me question how well it was taken care of.

 

[BuckWild]

About to start this journey, does this look like enough length on the pigtails? Not having a ton of success from recyclers

 

[prwillard2]

About to start this journey, does this look like enough length on the pigtails? Not having a ton of success from recyclers


View attachment 2294087

you can make it work, it's just going to be a pain.

 

[BuckWild]

you can make it work, it's just going to be a pain.

Just pulled the trigger...lets see how this goes


Also for everyone else out there. I have used the solder seals with a mini butane torch, and I had issues getting solder to melt before the plastic. Is this normal? Should I invest in a heat gun? Am I being a dumbass. Kinda terrified but also stoked to start this.

 

[prwillard2]

Just pulled the trigger...lets see how this goes


Also for everyone else out there. I have used the solder seals with a mini butane torch, and I had issues getting solder to melt before the plastic. Is this normal? Should I invest in a heat gun? Am I being a dumbass. Kinda terrified but also stoked to start this.

I'd recommend a heat gun, lower risk of burning because of the butane, safer with no open flame.

The solder seals take some time to melt, Bo slow and don't rush. You're gonna have to take it slow, especially with the length of pigtail you got.