prwillard2
SILVER Star
I followed the updated nav pinout and mine looks like this.
I'd go back and recheck your connections.
I'd go back and recheck your connections.
Pre-03 nav delete how-to (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter primeral
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Thanks for that - can someone verify which pin(s) control the backlight?
On the pinout in post #51 it shows E9 as the old terminal and D10 as the green wire. I believe it should be D10, D11 and D22 the ground. It is not labeled lights but it is the illumination for the panel.
Great job. Awesome video. Exactly what I needed to tackle this job. Was your antenna issue resolved with HU installation? How did you cable manage that bowl of spaghetti? Lol
prwillard2
SILVER Star
My antenna issue was resolved with the HU install. One of the cables on the metra harness was for the antenna. However, since I have the Mark Levinson system, I could not get the amp to work with the metra harness as it requires a digital/analog conversion. Tried the TOYO harness that was recommended previously, but the plug ins on that harness wouldn't work with my head unit. I am now replacing the factory amp, front door, rear door, and sub with aftermarket parts and will run new cables to all of them to now support my new head unit.
As for the spaghetti bowl of wires, I should have done a better job during the install of management, but I was absolutely unwilling to cut all the cables, pull off all covers/tape, and make it look super pretty as I was sure I would royally screw my system. So my solution now is to really just try and use zip ties to do some cable management in back of my console. Haven't done this complete step yet as I'm still working additional wiring for my new amp/sub/speakers/.
Yeah, I am thinking about doing the zip tie thing as well. I went ahead and bought an amp, and front/rear door speakers. Still need to get the HU and a sub, and going to replace my leather in the front and steam clean the carpet all at the same time. Stage 1 is the Nav delete. I have your exact setup with the ML system. This video was very helpful.
Perfect, thank you. I'll go mess with those.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Let me know if I can do anything else to help. I'll try and post some videos of my new speaker/amp/sub install. Going to take me some time, as I've really only got a couple of hours after work during the week to work on my truck.
Well, the post #51 pinout diagram turned out to be different from the one I was working from, so now everything is square for illumination.
Now I've got two new problems - getting the headunit aligned, and I've got no sound at all (kept factory ML amp and speakers for the sake of time).
Now I've got two new problems - getting the headunit aligned, and I've got no sound at all (kept factory ML amp and speakers for the sake of time).
prwillard2
SILVER Star
you're not going to have sound unfortunately. people said the toyo harness will work to convert the amp signal (digital to analog, or vice versa, nothing definative that I can find, but that's the issue) but it would not work with my head unit.
I will be installing a new amp, sub, and 4 door speakers here in the next week or two.
if you figure out a way to use the factory amp and speakers.... let me know as it will save me 500 bucks.
Explain about the head unit being aligned? Did you buy new brackets? Did you choose the correct mounting spot on the side of the head unit? Most of the ML systems end up being ripped out. Mine did not have one.
I'm about to start this job, and just wanted to share something that might be helpful to others thinking about it.
If you go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and search for 98 land cruiser, and pick "a/c heater controls" in the drop down menu, you will find a ton of them for sale from various junkyards around the country for under $150. It was very easy for me to get one with the pigtails cut out and shipped to me in a few days for a LOT less than what people on ebay or on here are trying to charge.
If you go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and search for 98 land cruiser, and pick "a/c heater controls" in the drop down menu, you will find a ton of them for sale from various junkyards around the country for under $150. It was very easy for me to get one with the pigtails cut out and shipped to me in a few days for a LOT less than what people on ebay or on here are trying to charge.
That has been mentioned several times in this thread. You may want to get one out of a 99 because rear air was not an option in a 98. Good luck with your install.
Well that fortunately went very smooth. Huge thanks to the pioneers, was able to convert my 2002 Nav using a 3 knob panel from a 99, adding a Sony XAV-AX1000 receiver. I kept the factory amp and speakers, so used the aforementioned metra harness. I will attach a little file I made for myself with the relevant pictures and parts (I know these things have been posted earlier in the thread, but maybe the consolidation will help.)
The only hiccup for me was, even though I knew to keep an eye out for the 3 wire connection, I managed to miss it anyway, so had to make another splice. Still works fine.
A couple additional notes:
-For all but the 4-wire and 3-wire connections, the red heat sleeves are the perfect size. The blue ones are perfect for the two bigger connections.
-On the metra harness, you can combine both the blue and blue/white wires, and connect them to the new stereos remote wire. This way your antenna will automatically go up and down when the stereo powers on/off. That may be obvious to you but I had to do some research to learn that.
Two things I still need to tackle:
-Still need to wire up a backup camera. I am using the one others have posted, now available on Amazon, that replaces one of the license plate lights.
Backup camera: direct replacement for license plate light
-The sound quality seems worse than with the stock stereo. Less full bass and low-mids appreciable from the front seats, yet overly bassy from the rear. I will play with the EQ some more but I am wondering if there is some kind of integration between the stock stereo and amp system that is now lost....maybe will have to replace the rest of the system.
The only hiccup for me was, even though I knew to keep an eye out for the 3 wire connection, I managed to miss it anyway, so had to make another splice. Still works fine.
A couple additional notes:
-For all but the 4-wire and 3-wire connections, the red heat sleeves are the perfect size. The blue ones are perfect for the two bigger connections.
-On the metra harness, you can combine both the blue and blue/white wires, and connect them to the new stereos remote wire. This way your antenna will automatically go up and down when the stereo powers on/off. That may be obvious to you but I had to do some research to learn that.
Two things I still need to tackle:
-Still need to wire up a backup camera. I am using the one others have posted, now available on Amazon, that replaces one of the license plate lights.
Backup camera: direct replacement for license plate light
-The sound quality seems worse than with the stock stereo. Less full bass and low-mids appreciable from the front seats, yet overly bassy from the rear. I will play with the EQ some more but I am wondering if there is some kind of integration between the stock stereo and amp system that is now lost....maybe will have to replace the rest of the system.
Good work. I used the amp bypass and ran my new speakers directly off my new head unit. It sounds great. Now you can expand it or upgrade at your leisure
I've read the entire thread and found a lc dash with dial controls. unfortunately, yard doesn't cut wires. I purchased the dash wiring harness as well. The dash harness should have the appropriate plugs/pigtails correct?
I would not bet on that. Junkyards can be tough to deal with. Did you tell them you wanted the dash harness to include the pigtails you needed?
I didn't specify that exactly but bezel/control and dash harness are coming from same vehicle. What are alternate names for the pigtails or what harness are they a part of? Or does anyone have the part number for the pigtails? Thanks so much.
I am going to take a different approach to the connector situation as I want to be able to easily undo it and definitely do not want to cut and solder all of those wires.My plan is crimp the necessary pins (or sleeves) on the cut ends of the non-navigation wiring harness and heat shrink to prevent metal to metal contact. Once working I can cover everything with hot melt glue, though someone here might have a better solution to make what is in effect my own molex connector.
probably over thinking this but before i go further, i ended up buying the entire dash wire harness and i may as well been staring at dna double helix trying to find the right pigtails. however, after going end to end on the harness, i matched the plugs that were in same general area of one another that appeared to match size and colors of everyone else's post. just want to confirm i am using the correct pigtails. thanks for the countless hours everyone has contributed to this thread. the only wire i can see that looks different from other peoples is the thick green and white wire ( part of the A port)
which appears to be a sleeve for a few different wires.
