Yep, saw those vids and they're great. Just double-checking to be sure I'm clear on my path forward. You didn't use the RCAs on the Metra harness, correct? You ran new RCAs from new headunit to new amp?
Pre-03 nav delete how-to
- Thread starter primeral
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yep. For testing purposes I had the aftermarket HU hooked up to the factory amp using Metra RCAs, but when I pulled the factory amp I ran new RCAs from HU to amp.
I didn't install a new amp, I just removed the one I had and used the HU to power the new speakers. There should be power that runs the factory amp but if you are upgrading wire size you may want to bring in a new line.
Is this the ground from the radio
Is this the radio ground (red oval) you needed to land when you replaced the factory amp?
Shoboat - Here's a question for you and for anyone else - I'm looking at your bezel and noticed that your rear heat button is hi/low. Does this match your stock bezel "rear" button? I thought I had read earlier that these buttons not matching lead to some trouble. I'm asking for you in case this is true, but also because I have seen a few bezels like yours pictured (wood trim, three knob, and rear hi/low) that I have not considered for my nav delete because my rear button is not Hi/Lo - it is just "rear". Can anyone confirm that these buttons need to match, or confirm that it doesn't matter?
Thanks also to everyone who has contributed to this thread - I'm in the middle of deciding whether I stop messing with the stock system and gear up for nav delete, or just install a Naviks type thing for rear camera and live with the stock nav and maybe update the Nav computer to Gen 4. I installed a head unit with car play in my Pilot and am sort've over that convenience; my LX has the bluetooth module which is proving to be pretty good on its own.
Thanks also to everyone who has contributed to this thread - I'm in the middle of deciding whether I stop messing with the stock system and gear up for nav delete, or just install a Naviks type thing for rear camera and live with the stock nav and maybe update the Nav computer to Gen 4. I installed a head unit with car play in my Pilot and am sort've over that convenience; my LX has the bluetooth module which is proving to be pretty good on its own.
@chogunn I sourced a different bezel that matched my existing buttons (no hi/lo) because I didn't want to run into any problems that appears as though others have had....
Where did you enter the firewall through to pull the power cable through?
Why didn't you go through the Drivers side?
It is in the video. I didn't go through the driver side because it was going to be routed to passenger side beneath the front passenger seat. It was much easier to route across the vehicle from the battery under the hood rather than behind the dash.
Hmmm, reason I was thinking about running power on the drivers side is that I'll have signal from the Headunit on the passenger side. Are you running power and signal close together?
So I'm really considering doing the same thing as you; removing the amp and using HU for power. If that's the case, the only thing need from the old amp is the speaker wires, correct? At that point, the new HU is just plug/play with the existing radio harness provided you use the Metra harness, correct?
No. My signal runs from HU through center console and into the left side of the passenger seat.
My power runs through the hole on the passenger side firewall, through the small panel between the door and the floorboard, and then under the trim piece on the door sill then through a small pathway on the right side of the passenger seat. They go into opposite sides of the amp.
Thanx!
Yes. I bought the stereo at Crutchfield. They provided a harness that went from the HU to the amp. The amp end plugged into the vehicle speaker wires with an easy connector. Don't forget you will need to do a cut/solder job on the tweeter that was controlled by the nav unit. I believe I did have to hook up speaker wire from the harness to the HU. Crutchfield provided both Metra harnesses when I purchased my HU at no additional cost.
Good deal. I believe I'm getting closer with my understanding on how this needs to happen. So in this photo of the Metra factory amp bypass harness....the blue box is the wiring harness that connects HU to existing radio connections (power, etc). The red circle connects to the speaker wire connector on the factory amp and the yellow circle wires get wired back to the HU speaker outputs? Then just need to splice in the speaker wires that run from the nav for the driver side front speakers?
Yes that is how I remember it. You will also need to ground your new head unit because the old unit got its ground from the amp. It is real easy
Fantastic. Thanks to all for the help. I'll be sure to report back once I complete the project.
Anyone looking for the LX controls, bezel, pigtails, etc, call Formel Motor Company, they have the whole setup, 413-528-9424. I was calling around like crazy trying to find the parts and bought them elsewhere but Formel did call me back letting me know they had it as well. Took 2 days of calling for me, trying to save someone some time.
Recently did this nav delete using an LX controller. It works, kind of. All the bottom buttons seem to work, as do the hazards and center diff lock. I can change the temp and it adjusts temp and foot/vents/defrost appropriately but will not change fan speed. I can't get the auto button to turn on or do anything. Also can't change the fan speed or adjust the mix using the mode button. I've checked all fuses and grounds. Any idea which wire does the manual mode change? Also, I'm guessing the fan speed is the ante up and ante down connections? Any help very appreciated, having some anxiety about all the cutting, etc and it not working as it should.
ANT up and DOWN is probably for the power antenna. Do you know for sure that controller works? According to the info on here it should be plug and play.
Ah, I'm sure you're right. No, I don't know for sure that it works, bought it from a yard. Just wondering if I should be looking at any specific wires/connections for issues?