Pre-03 nav delete how-to (5 Viewers)

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Is there a way to verify the controller works prior to the cutting process? Also, once you cut, will the vehicle still run if you run into issues?
 
Ah, I'm sure you're right. No, I don't know for sure that it works, bought it from a yard. Just wondering if I should be looking at any specific wires/connections for issues?
No, it should be plug and play. Problem is you do not know if you wired it right. I would recheck all of the wires. If you know anyone close by you could swap and try theirs out?
 
Is it possible that some buttons aren't making good contact? I read somewhere in here about someone taking the control apart and adding thin spacers to some buttons that weren't working, and that solved the problem. There was something about seeing evidence of contact between button and board and adding thin spacers in there.

This is one of my concerns about ordering a junkyard control, and why I can't decide on the LX digital controller (matches my trim and preference) or the three knob (easier to use by feel and probably less prone to failure(?) but doesn't match trim).

Are there any other reasons to prefer the digital LX controller - in an '02 LX w/Nav?
 
Is it possible that some buttons aren't making good contact? I read somewhere in here about someone taking the control apart and adding thin spacers to some buttons that weren't working, and that solved the problem. There was something about seeing evidence of contact between button and board and adding thin spacers in there.

This is one of my concerns about ordering a junkyard control, and why I can't decide on the LX digital controller (matches my trim and preference) or the three knob (easier to use by feel and probably less prone to failure(?) but doesn't match trim).

Are there any other reasons to prefer the digital LX controller - in an '02 LX w/Nav?

I went with Three Knob even though the trim doesn't match.
I'm utilitarian. Way easier and quicker to turn a knob. Digital ain't always better.
 
I went with Three Knob even though the trim doesn't match.
I'm utilitarian. Way easier and quicker to turn a knob. Digital ain't always better.
Probably what I should have done. I think I'm going to try to source a knobbed unit. I'm also going to take it apart and check out the button travel to see if a spacer would help. Thanks all!
 
Probably what I should have done. I think I'm going to try to source a knobbed unit. I'm also going to take it apart and check out the button travel to see if a spacer would help. Thanks all!
The setup you have should work just fine if it is in operating condition AND it is wired correctly. Double check your wiring.
 
I keep reading about trim not matching, in the LX what trim are you talking about?

The bezel trim in my LX is a light reddish wood, and from what I’ve seen some LC trims the wood effect is a darker red wood with a different grain, or just black plastic. On the other hand: knobs seem to be preferred over buttons.
 
Is it possible that some buttons aren't making good contact? I read somewhere in here about someone taking the control apart and adding thin spacers to some buttons that weren't working, and that solved the problem. There was something about seeing evidence of contact between button and board and adding thin spacers in there.
You were dead on. They weren't making good contact so was necessary to push the buttons WAY harder than you'd think. After swapping a friend's knobbed unit in mine and the LX controls in his proved my wiring was good. I may try to fix the buttons in the future but honestly I rarely do anything but leave it on auto and turn off the AC in the winter. Then hit auto so the ac turns back on in warmer weather.

Thanks very much to all who figured all of the wiring out. It's a lot of connections but it works! To anyone that's going to do this I'll reiterate what others have said: Take your time and do one wire cut/solder at a time and you'll be fine.
 
My recommendation is once you cut a cable **And only do one plug at a time!!** pull the cable back through the loom so it is easy to keep the cables tidy and sorted for each plug

View attachment 1672507

I finished off each plug and kept the loom very tidy and sorted for each plug connector.

View attachment 1672508

Before terminating each wire I checked to ensure all open wires are covered to prevent a short when I reconnected the battery.


View attachment 1672509

The unit operated perfectly and everything worked as expected.

With the loom kept tidy it made it very easy put everything back in behind the dash.

I did end up cutting off all the old plugs and terminated each end with shrink wrap, this made it a very tidy and professional end result...take your time and do the same so you don't fear a future short.

So the final put together and all I need now is to choose my new head unit...a job for tomorrow.

Thanks all and I am happy to offer any advice to anyone wanting to do this themselves.
hi,do you want to sell your old navi multi display...
 
Another successful install of a 1998 Japanese Import 100 Series in New Zealand. Although the install is a bit nerve racking as you start to cut wires, it worked first time and with minimal challenges.

I will document my experience doing the install and what I learned from doing it.

My install time was approx 3 hours (without installing a head unit) and this included doing the prep work with the wiring loom ready for install.

I was lucky to obtain a centre console and also 12 inches of wiring loom from a local wreckers yard. They also provided me stereo bracket (double din) that was sitting on the roof of the car.

The condition of the centre console was good, just dirty and once cleaned it looked great.

View attachment 1672495


I prepared the wiring loom and cleaned the ends ready for termination. I opted to follow the recommendations within previous installs and use the solder shrink to speed up the process...this was a great decision as very simple to do.


View attachment 1672496

Once prepared I first removed the negative terminals from the battery and then removed the old unit.

View attachment 1672497


I printed off the spreadsheet and checked my plugs against the charts prior to cutting. I noticed a few gaps where I did not have certain cables but I continued anyway and assumed this is because mine is the japanese spec car.

I also had some colour differences from the chart where the colour of my wire was different to the chart but I continued and I can confirm the pin layout is perfect so don't focus on the colours so much.

View attachment 1672499


I will upload the next part in another post so I know this has uploaded properly.
my friend,cant i buy your olb nav head unit?thanks
 
Can someone spell something out really clearly for me? Like they say on Reddit, Explain Like I'm 5...

I've got a 2002 LX470 with Nav and Mark Levinson sound.
I purchased a 3 knob controller from a 98 land cruiser. The Temp & AC wiring conversion seem pretty straightforward and well documented. I want to install a nice modern head unit with CarPlay, but I don't want to replace the amp or any speakers. I just refoamed all the speakers and subs, and everything sounds good enough for me. I'm listening to sports radio or audiobooks 75% of the time.

There's the setup - here's the question - does the Metra 70-8113 connect my new head unit (HU has RCA outs) to my existing amp in a way that means sound will spring forth out of my speakers and sub? Without any additional wiring etc...?

Thanks for the help - I'm excited to do this but my facilities in electronics and engineering are so limited (I'm an educator, you know what they say...) that if I get into a fuzzy situation I'm likely to be driving around in a car without heat, fan, AC, or sound until I can afford to fly one of you experts up here to the Pacific NW.
 
Can someone spell something out really clearly for me? Like they say on Reddit, Explain Like I'm 5...

I've got a 2002 LX470 with Nav and Mark Levinson sound.
I purchased a 3 knob controller from a 98 land cruiser. The Temp & AC wiring conversion seem pretty straightforward and well documented. I want to install a nice modern head unit with CarPlay, but I don't want to replace the amp or any speakers. I just refoamed all the speakers and subs, and everything sounds good enough for me. I'm listening to sports radio or audiobooks 75% of the time.

There's the setup - here's the question - does the Metra 70-8113 connect my new head unit (HU has RCA outs) to my existing amp in a way that means sound will spring forth out of my speakers and sub? Without any additional wiring etc...?

Thanks for the help - I'm excited to do this but my facilities in electronics and engineering are so limited (I'm an educator, you know what they say...) that if I get into a fuzzy situation I'm likely to be driving around in a car without heat, fan, AC, or sound until I can afford to fly one of you experts up here to the Pacific NW.


It should. At least it did on my 02 LC.
 
It should. At least it did on my 02 LC.

Thanks! I’m ordering new HU tonight and the Metra 70-8113 and hope for the best.

This showed up today, and just a little bit of work to remove the trim. Will use a plastic finish cleaner/restorer to shine it up after installing.
1967267
 
I am gearing up for this mod as a PM (nav screen still working) . I have the controller but the eBay seller did not include the wire pigtails. Went back to the seller and asked for them and was willing to pay more for them but to no avail.
Does anyone out there know of a source or have a set for sale? I’m dead in the water until I get the pigtails.
 

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