Pre-03 nav delete how-to (7 Viewers)

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Looks clear to me.

It's right underneath the AC amplifier at the top. Have you ever removed it from the bezel?

Hey there. I did the NAV delete on my LC about 2 years ago. You CAN disassemble the bezel. I know because I started to take mine apart because the lights on the switches were not working and I planned on changing the lights out. I stopped because I realized I didn't really care and everything else was working. Just take it slowly and pay attention to how it comes apart. Pics while you're working will help to put it all back together.
 
No, I have not attempted to disassemble the bezel at all.


So I investigated this last night. On the Non-Nav system, the clock is separated from the "row of buttons" by the 3 knobs.

On the Nav version, the clock is just above the "row of buttons". I pulled apart the Nav version and it has the row of buttons and clock all on one board. The non Nav version has the switches and clock separated, so 2 different boards. So unfortunately the clocks are not swapable. I was hoping it was because I found a Non Nav bezel with a cracked clock and was hoping to fix it. But that isn't going to work, so the search continues.
 
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02 Nav Delete Pt. 1


02 Nav Delete Pt. 2


Huge thanks to all of you guys that did the work and put the information out there! I was nervous about doing this but it wasn't too bad with all the information on here. I made some short videos for others out there like me that aren't too good at this stuff. I hope it is helpful! I got it all wired up and tested everything. It seems to be good to go. I still need to install radio and replace amp with aftermarket amp. I'll also be removing the CD changer which should clear up some center console space for storage.

I'll be making part 3 and 4 with a summary of this mod and the radio install if y'all think it would be helpful. Let me know what you think, please.


Hey, nice videos, were you able to do part 3 and 4?
 
So I investigated this last night. On the Non-Nav system, the clock is separated from the "row of buttons" by the 3 knobs.

On the Nav version, the clock is just above the "row of buttons". I pulled apart the Nav version and it has the row of buttons and clock all on one board. The non Nav version has the switches and clock separated, so 2 different boards. So unfortunately the clocks are not swapable. I was hoping it was because I found a Non Nav bezel with a cracked clock and was hoping to fix it. But that isn't going to work, so the search continues.

My bad. I only looked at the Non NAV bezel. Didn't think to look at NAV bezel. I "assumed" they were the same. Could some soldering or desoldering do the trick?
 
Does anyone have the EWD for a 2002? I have the hardcopy, but am terrible at photographing for printing. The PDF would make it tons easier.
 
Does anyone have the EWD for a 2002? I have the hardcopy, but am terrible at photographing for printing. The PDF would make it tons easier.


Look back through the thread. TXsundevil posts all the EWDs you need for this job. He even included both nav and non-nav of the factory amp.
 
Part 3 video


How did your amp replacement go?

Amp replacement went great. My aftermarket radio worked with the factory amp, but I had issues with it after I did the replacement. The issue was my radio ground. Important thing to remember here is that the radio's ground is through the amp wiring harness. So in addition to the speakers you'll need to ground the radio via a wire in the harness under the passenger seat. Once I figured that out everything worked great.

I mention this in the video description. Also, the diagram for ALL of this has already been posted.

Good luck!
 
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Not for the amp. The pin diagram is posted for the bezel swap.
The wiring diagram is on page 12 or so for the amp wires. Telling you which colors go to which speaker and their location on the diagram.


Yeah, I got that one. Thanx!
 


Again, big thanks to all of you who have contributed. These videos are meant to be an overview of this process and not all inclusive of every step. I think between these 4 videos and this thread anyone who can cut and strip a wire and use a lighter to make these connections can do this job.
 
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Again, big thanks to all of you who have contributed. These videos are meant to be an overview of this process and not all inclusive of every step. I think between these 4 videos and this thread anyone who can cut and strip a wire and use a lighter to make these connections can do this job.

I'm in the process of sourcing the parts to do this work on my 2001. Before I start, I just have a few questions that I hope someone will have quick answers to. I found the bezel and the wiring harness from a 1998, everything looks right, however when I run the 88650 part number, it says its not compatible with a 2001.....can anyone confirm this? Also, my stupid question...once I start the work...will the car still run if I'm not finished?
Thanks in advance for your help

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While I cannot comment on the compatibility, I will say I made sure to have enough time to finish up the AC controls. Vehicle ran fine with AC working correctly, but no radio.
 
Been reading this thread for a year, and finally ready to source the parts and start. Looks pretty straightforward, but just so I'm clear on a few things....the attached is the latest and accurate pinout chart? In regards to the yellow highlights....A11 and A12 will go to 8E and 21G making a 4 wire connection? B9 and D22 will go with 11G making a 3 wire? And everything else a 1 to 1 connection? Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Been reading this thread for a year, and finally ready to source the parts and start. Looks pretty straightforward, but just so I'm clear on a few things....the attached is the latest and accurate pinout chart? In regards to the yellow highlights....A11 and A12 will go to 8E and 21G making a 4 wire connection? B9 and D22 will go with 11G making a 3 wire? And everything else a 1 to 1 connection? Thanks in advance for your help.

Yep. That should be good. For me after I did my first wire and knew the process and how to make sure everything was correct I was good to go. Once you get in there and start connecting it will all make more sense.
 
Yes that sounds right. There are plenty of resources here to help if there are any issues. Be sure to watch the videos, they explain much better than photos and text
 
Yes that sounds right. There are plenty of resources here to help if there are any issues. Be sure to watch the videos, they explain much better than photos and text
Yes sir. I've watched all the videos and printed the pinout and other wiring diagrams. I'm pretty sure I'm crystal clear on the Climate control swap at this point.
Do just have a few questions in regards to Headunit replacement though;
  1. The Metra harness will allow me to connect new headunit to factory harness, correct? With the exception of the antennae stuff, that's all that's needed for audio?
  2. If i move forward with replacing factory amp and using existing speaker wire (which I've identified with wiring diagram), do I need to run anything else from the headunit besides the appropriate RCA cables? Where do I pull power for the new amp?
 
Yes sir. I've watched all the videos and printed the pinout and other wiring diagrams. I'm pretty sure I'm crystal clear on the Climate control swap at this point.
Do just have a few questions in regards to Headunit replacement though;
  1. The Metra harness will allow me to connect new headunit to factory harness, correct? With the exception of the antennae stuff, that's all that's needed for audio?
  2. If i move forward with replacing factory amp and using existing speaker wire (which I've identified with wiring diagram), do I need to run anything else from the headunit besides the appropriate RCA cables? Where do I pull power for the new amp?

I covered all of #2 in pt 3 & 4 videos. To recap, I brought the power wire for my amp in through the firewall on the passenger side. You'll run RCAs and a remote turn-on to the amp. Also, if you plan on doing a subwoofer, you can run your sub gain dial wire as well.
The metra harness will connect to the radio harness coming from your truck. You'll connect the wires coming from your aftermarket radio's harness to the metra harness. Then yes, you'll do the antenna separately. I have XM and have yet to connect my FM antenna.
 

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