Pre-03 nav delete how-to (4 Viewers)

[TXSunDevil]

Ok, can I pick your brain (or anybody’s here) to clarify something?

I’ve read this entire thread and others. I was under the impression that for either an LC or LX 2001-2002, I would have to source the whole bezel and three-knob assembly, paying attention to the presence or absence of rear heat. For the LX I would be best off to order the LC non-nav double-DIN brackets rather than trim the existing ones.

But it seems that for only the LX you in fact do NOT need to swap to the three-knob bezel setup? In your photos you seem to have configured the LX with the splicing/Metra harness yet retained a functional digital hvac control setup. I just wanted to confirm that this is actually possible and if you needed a new non-nav bezel anyway or other parts to fit the screen of the double-DIN? Or did the double-DIN fit behind the existing nav bezel with/without modification?

I am not afraid to take the project on, but it would be good to know exactly what I am in for. I am looking at purchasing a 2001-2002 LC or LX.

Thanks in advance!

The LX did not come with the 3 knob controller when not equipped with navigation. It came with a digital display. The OP on this thread has not been online in awhile and has not updated his photos. Here is some I grabbed off the net. The following photo is from an 02. Notice the cassette and radio? This is what was removed.

The non-nav LX was equipped like this. You can see the LX had a digital display that is different than the navigation digital display.

If you purchase an LX you can find the digital controller like the OP used or a 3 knob from the LC. The difference is the digital LX controller/bezel will require a trim kit like the OP used. So to do a navigation delete you will need to either purchase one of the controllers from Ebay or a scrap yard.
Temperature Control Without Display US Market Fits 98-02 LEXUS LX470 364639 | eBay

98-02 LAND CRUISER Heater AC Temperature Climate Controller Radio Trim Panel | eBay

 

[Pyrenees]

The LX did not come with the 3 knob controller when not equipped with navigation. It came with a digital display. The OP on this thread has not been online in awhile and has not updated his photos. Here is some I grabbed off the net. The following photo is from an 02. Notice the cassette and radio? This is what was removed.
View attachment 1764045
The non-nav LX was equipped like this. You can see the LX had a digital display that is different than the navigation digital display.
View attachment 1764046
If you purchase and LX you can find the digital controller like the OP used or a 3 knob from the LC. The difference is the digital LX controller/bezel will require a trim kit like the OP used. So to do a navigation delete you will need to either purchase one of the controllers from Ebay or a scrap yard.
Temperature Control Without Display US Market Fits 98-02 LEXUS LX470 364639 | eBay

98-02 LAND CRUISER Heater AC Temperature Climate Controller Radio Trim Panel | eBay

Dude, you are the man. For the life of me I didn’t see the difference in the LX radio/hvac panels in nav versus non-nav.

Now I understand what I will need to do. I missed out on the LX I was shopping for (95k mi 2002 with timing belt done) but I will still use this info as I shop around. I am waiting to find the right truck.

I understand that even with these mods, the new head unit will still feed through the factory amp to the factory speakers. I heard that the Mark Levinson speakers are weird 2-ohm style (my recollection is that most home audio is 8 ohm and the car audio is 4 ohm). I’ll have to look this up and see, but if anyone has some info on what models have the ML and what models don’t, that might help. I am not set on rewiring the car right away unless there is some advantage to it. Are all LC and LX the 2-ohm speaker/amp combo? If there is a helpful thread I can read let me know.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I had the JBL in my 02. They were 2 ohm. The reason I ended up doing this modification is because I wanted new speakers to replace mine that were blown. From that I ended up here. I used the amp bypass that I detailed on page 1 and installed 4 new speakers. It worked well but I lost my factory subwoofer that was shot anyhow. The OP had a Mark Levinson system and he just rewired the entire system IIRC. They do make a pricey harness that is plug and play with the ML system.
Is there a way to replace 2001 LX470 Mark Levinson stereo system?
From what I gather the LX came with either the Nakamachi or the ML system. Both have oddball connectors but they can be removed. Do not forget if you end up doing this mod on a new truck you will make money. Selling the old parts off your new purchase will fund this project and put a few hundred bucks in your pocket.

 

[fblainen11]

Okay, I'm getting close to having the time to do this but I have a few questions:
Why/is the Metra 70-8113 harness necessary?

I have a non-nav with all of the factory A-D harnesses and wires. It is just as simple as connecting it to the corresponding E-I wires?

Secondly, where I am I connecting the wires from my radio to the speakers? I need to bypass factory amp to install my aftermarket 5 channel amp. Best way to do that?

 

[TXSunDevil]

Good morning,

The Metra is necessary so you do not have to cut off your factory plugs. The Metra will attach to the back of your new HU so you just plug it into the factory wiring that comes out of the dash.

In its simplest terms you are taking the wires from 5 plugs and converting to 4 IIRC by cutting and soldering. There are a lot of wires and having pigtails is the best way to do this.

The amp bypass harness will take care of running the wires from the head unit to the speaker. Those connections are made under the passenger seat. Depending on your year you may need to run a new ground for your head unit up in the dash. The ground in my 02 came off of the old factory amp.

 

[fblainen11]

Good morning,

The Metra is necessary so you do not have to cut off your factory plugs. The Metra will attach to the back of your new HU so you just plug it into the factory wiring that comes out of the dash.

In its simplest terms you are taking the wires from 5 plugs and converting to 4 IIRC by cutting and soldering. There are a lot of wires and having pigtails is the best way to do this.

The amp bypass harness will take care of running the wires from the head unit to the speaker. Those connections are made under the passenger seat. Depending on your year you may need to run a new ground for your head unit up in the dash. The ground in my 02 came off of the old factory amp.

Sounds like since I am installing my own amp the amp bypass won't be useful. I'll have to pull the old amp out, but maybe I'll be able to utilize the existing wiring to pull my RCAs when removing factory wiring.

The metra harness will fit by placing the male end into a female adapter in the dash and then connecting pigtails to aftermarket harness pigtails coming from back of the radio?

OR the metra harness male ends will plug into my aftermarket HU and then connect the pigtails by butt connectors to wires from the dash?

 

[fblainen11]

It seems as if my install will be the most involved compared to what has been documented so far.

I plan on trying to make a video to give a little back . But definitely the hard work has already been done. I appreciate all the help!

 

[TXSunDevil]

Sounds like since I am installing my own amp the amp bypass won't be useful. I'll have to pull the old amp out, but maybe I'll be able to utilize the existing wiring to pull my RCAs when removing factory wiring.

The metra harness will fit by placing the male end into a female adapter in the dash and then connecting pigtails to aftermarket harness pigtails coming from back of the radio?

OR the metra harness male ends will plug into my aftermarket HU and then connect the pigtails by butt connectors to wires from the dash?

If you are installing a new amp I would guess you would just be using the RCA outputs? I think it is easier just to pull a new set of RCA cables instead of trying to use the existing wire as a tugger. You do not need an amp bypass for your application but you may want to pull new larger speaker wires if you really want to crank up the sound. Depending on your year you may run into issues on the wiring. Some of the years got there power from the amp so if you disconnect the amp under the seat your head unit will not get power. Please post your year

All of the cutting and splicing you are doing is related to the climate control, hazards and other stuff. The stereo plugs do not get chopped off.

 

[fblainen11]

2002.

Okay that makes sense now I think.
Yes, I'll be using RCAs. Hopefully there isn't too much non-audio stuff going on.

I think for my application and desired level of audio quakity the stock wiring to speakers will be fine. I'll be around 75-100 watts RMS. Using Pioneer 9605.

 

[TXSunDevil]

2002.

Okay that makes sense now I think.
Yes, I'll be using RCAs. Hopefully there isn't too much non-audio stuff going on.

I think for my application and desired level of audio quakity the stock wiring to speakers will be fine. I'll be around 75-100 watts RMS. Using Pioneer 9605.

On a 2002 all you need to do is ground your head unit near the point of install. Disconnecting the amp down below will still give you 12V on the Metra harness. The 2002 factory head unit got the ground through the amp. A replacement stereo must be grounded in order to work. Here is a photo of the area in question. Note the front left speaker is switched through the nav. I believe I just soldered together. Can't remember I would have to go back and read through the thread and my notes. Either way not an issue to resolve.

 

[fblainen11]

Can you link to your other thread?

 

[TXSunDevil]

It would be in this thread towards the beginning. I may not have chronicled the bypass. When you remove the amp the navigation is right there and you just cut and solder the speaker wire for the driver front.

 

[fblainen11]

Very helpful charts to know what I'm getting into before I get into it. Thank you sir.

 

[ADVNZ]

TXSunDevil,

Thank you once again for posting this diagram. I finally got around to doing the Amp install tonight and the diagram with the Nav was perfect!![/QUOTE]

 

[Parbo]

Hello everyone!
After a long time i have great news. My install finaly worked. If you remember i had problems withe the ac knob and the circulation selection knob not working. I was very frustrated because i tripple checked all the connections even reconnected some were i doubted. Still not worked. I tought my only option was to search for another pannel. Wich is very difficult to find in my country and the last one cost me almost $200. So for a couple of month i drove without ac working. Until on a trip last weekend my cousin who is a mech went with me and i told him what was wrong. He looked at it for a second and just hold the ac knob for 20 second or something and voila! It worked!
It seems that when you unplugg en replug the unit you sometimes need to “reset” som of the knob by pressing them down for a couple of seconds. Do any of you guys know this knowledge? According to my cousin this is a “standard” thing in a lot of toyotas/izusus etc.
Well i am very happy now with the install and can finaly go ahead with the new head unit install in peace. I cannot believe i suffered all of this for so a simple solution all these months.
Manny thanks again everyone especially txsundevil for all the help.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Hello everyone!
After a long time i have great news. My install finaly worked. If you remember i had problems withe the ac knob and the circulation selection knob not working. I was very frustrated because i tripple checked all the connections even reconnected some were i doubted. Still not worked. I tought my only option was to search for another pannel. Wich is very difficult to find in my country and the last one cost me almost $200. So for a couple of month i drove without ac working. Until on a trip last weekend my cousin who is a mech went with me and i told him what was wrong. He looked at it for a second and just hold the ac knob for 20 second or something and voila! It worked!
It seems that when you unplugg en replug the unit you sometimes need to “reset” som of the knob by pressing them down for a couple of seconds. Do any of you guys know this knowledge? According to my cousin this is a “standard” thing in a lot of toyotas/izusus etc.
Well i am very happy now with the install and can finaly go ahead with the new head unit install in peace. I cannot believe i suffered all of this for so a simple solution all these months.
Manny thanks again everyone especially txsundevil for all the help.

Glad you got it working. I know when my battery went dead in my Lexus and I changed it I had to do that to all of my window switches. They would not roll the windows up or down.

 

[GorData]

Everyone, I am selling a mostly complete kit. I decided to shift my priorities and tackle some other stuff the truck needs.
Check it out here For Sale - Pre-03 nav delete Kit

 

[baggar11]

Great thread! I've read through it about 3-4 times now to get the scope of work involved. Just bought an '02 LX with the NAV option and deleting it is on my short list. I'm so new to the LX so far that I'm not even sure what all the buttons do. In hopes of buying the right non-nav dash, I'm guess I need the rear heat and Ac options. I have attached my current dash to hopes of getting input on it.

Other than that, here's the list I have compiled. Does it look pretty solid?

1. Metra harness 70-8113(is this needed if I plan on bypassing the amp?)
2. Double din brackets(86211-60071 & 86212-60071)
3. Metra antenna adapter(2to1) to use diversity antenna
4. Scosche mda-b gm micro tip adapter(diversity antenna needs this?)
5. And a non-nav control dash(trim kit needed with LX digital dash, not with 3 knob LC dash)

Also, is there a solid way to source the pigtails for the non-nav dash connectors? Sounds like most people have been getting them from either their ebay seller or at a local junk yard. Anyone found a source for blanks to build your own?

 

[TXSunDevil]

Great thread! I've read through it about 3-4 times now to get the scope of work involved. Just bought an '02 LX with the NAV option and deleting it is on my short list. I'm so new to the LX so far that I'm not even sure what all the buttons do. In hopes of buying the right non-nav dash, I'm guess I need the rear heat and Ac options. I have attached my current dash to hopes of getting input on it.

View attachment 1786995

Other than that, here's the list I have compiled. Does it look pretty solid?

1. Metra harness 70-8113(is this needed if I plan on bypassing the amp?)
2. Double din brackets(86211-60071 & 86212-60071)
3. Metra antenna adapter(2to1) to use diversity antenna
3. Scosche mda-b gm micro tip adapter(diversity antenna needs this?)
4. And a non-nav control dash(trim kit needed with LX digital dash, not with 3 knob LC dash)

Also, is there a solid way to source the pigtails for the non-nav dash connectors? Sounds like most people have been getting them from either their ebay seller or at a local junk yard. Anyone found a source for blanks to build your own?

You will buy the controller that has the same Rear AC button that your current controller has. You can buy a wood grain or just a plain black. I went with the black and if you didn't know it was supposed to be "wood" you would have no idea.
1. Not needed but a much cleaner install. That is the harness the OP used and he had the ML system.
3. Yes you will need that tiny adapter.

You do have the Mark Levinson system so it is a bit more involved. The OP of this thread had the Mark Levinson system and he did not report any issues with removing the system as you are planning. I like the Sopoby connectors but you can solder/crimp if you prefer.

You are going to have much better luck with pigtails from a junkyard or Ebay. I have found the "blanks" and the pins but they are very pricey and time consuming. I listed those part numbers in a different thread. Do not forget to keep your old stuff and sell it. You will make money on the project.

 

[baggar11]

You are going to have much better luck with pigtails from a junkyard or Ebay. I have found the "blanks" and the pins but they are very pricey and time consuming. I listed those part numbers in a different thread. Do not forget to keep your old stuff and sell it. You will make money on the project.

I'm hammering out a couple other items on the LX before diving into this but am still doing my research so I have all my ducks in a row before pulling the trigger.

I'm seeing dashes range on ebay from about $100-ish to $300-ish. I've contacted a couple sellers already and they wouldn't be able to include the pigtails since the LX's they are pulling from have already been picked apart.

I wouldn't mind grabbing the connectors from the local Toyota dealer and pinning/wiring them myself. I looked through your old post and I think I found the one you were referring to. You listed the part numbers for the 5 connectors coming out of the nav based dash and their male/female counterparts. I didn't see the 4 connector part numbers for the non-nav dash. Picture of them here. Any chance you can list those 4 part numbers as well as any info you have on which pins to use for them?