Power Steering box - where to go from here? (1 Viewer)

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MDarius

I break stuff.
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Apr 10, 2006
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Bountiful, UT
I have a 92 FJ80 with the 3fe. My daughter forced the steering wheel while off-road now there is PS fluid everywhere on the DS frame rail. I think it's coming from the back end...input shaft seal?

I have a 95 fzj80 parts vehicle with a good... But probably leaky ps pump, probably normal leakage for 225k miles. But the sector shaft is sheered. One of the symptoms that led to it becoming a parts vehicle.

I'm willing to try rebuilding one or the other, or both. Never done it and don't know where to go from here. Maybe you can give me some advice on how to spend my money? I don't know if the 95 box is compatible with the 92. I don't know if there is a reasonable upgrade or what to fix, or if one is a better rebuild candidate than the other.

I've done some research, but I'm still learning steering component vocabulary, let alone diagnostics.

I did climb under it while someone turned the wheel lock to lock several times, but didn't see any new fluid. For as much as there is on the pavement where she parks I was expecting it to spray out of something.

I've got the component off the 95 and cleaned up. The 92 is still on the truck, but it's marking its territory throughout town and is making a good mess.

I THINK the hoses on both vehicles are good but the high pressure hose doesn't appear to be compatible.

Advice?
 
I believe all LHD 80 Series steering boxes are compatible across all years.
FJ80 steering box was originally part number 44110-60210.
FZJ80 steering box was originally part number 44110-60211.
Both of those part numbers have been superseded to 44110-60212.

If you have 1 box that is in good shape, the sector shaft is pretty easy to replace. I recently swapped my sector shaft and pitman arm for the 105 Series parts.
 
I was just in mine this past week. They are relatively easy to get into. Getting all the balls back into the nut and race return was the tricky part.
The FSM walks you through the process. There is a special tool called out for ironing in a teflon seal, but I cleaned up the pitman exposed end of the sector shaft with 400 grit and used that as the SST. Worked fine. Don't polish the actual seal diameter and bearing diameter, just the lead that goes to those surfaces.
 
There is a video posted on here somewhere with highly detailed procedures. Couple that with a FSM and it's about a 4 hour rebuild after it's off the truck. Yes, that's a non experience time frame.

The main thing is to clean up the outside very well before tearing it down.

The video also lists other seals and such that are not necessarily in the kit.
 
Thanks guys. I did find the writeup in the FAQ on the rebuild process. I'll look for the video.

That 105 series upgrade is the one I was trying to think of. I've read so many posts in the last 48 hours I couldn't remember. Thanks. Didn't want to go back and do that again.
 
Thanks guys. I did find the writeup in the FAQ on the rebuild process. I'll look for the video.

That 105 series upgrade is the one I was trying to think of. I've read so many posts in the last 48 hours I couldn't remember. Thanks. Didn't want to go back and do that again.
You don't "have to" do the 105 sector shaft. If you just want to swap sector shafts between the 2 boxes, it greatly simplifies the procedure and doesn't require doing anything with your balls ;)
 
You don't "have to" do the 105 sector shaft. If you just want to swap sector shafts between the 2 boxes, it greatly simplifies the procedure and doesn't require doing anything with your balls ;)

Yeah! I looked up the cost of the sector shaft this morning. Yeesh!! That would double the cost of parts I've installed on this thing in the 3 years I've had it!
 
What are your thoughts on this? I would still plan to rebuild mine, but this entire unit is less than a new sector shaft...

You could also do that and it's a lot less work. In the event it is worn out, getting a warranty replacement is tough due to source. If I was to do that VS going to a local O'Reilly, I would probably do O'Reilly because it's local and I can get it replaced quickly and a warranty is faster.

However, you never know the condition of the reman unit. It could actually be worse than your original unit for wear.
 
You could also do that and it's a lot less work. In the event it is worn out, getting a warranty replacement is tough due to source. If I was to do that VS going to a local O'Reilly, I would probably do O'Reilly because it's local and I can get it replaced quickly and a warranty is faster.

However, you never know the condition of the reman unit. It could actually be worse than your original unit for wear.

I don't know much about how hydraulic systems work. What would wear on a part like this that wouldn't be part of the refurbishment process? I would expect there process to be:

1. Clean the unit exterior
2. Inspect the casing, shafts, threads, and fasteners.
3. Disassemble and inspect for wear or breakage. Note anything outside of "the kit" that is out of spec. Determine "scrap" or "refurbish" status for components.
4. Clean and prep surfaces
5. Reassemble with new seals, washers, replace bearings and races, replace worn or broken shafts and gears with good used from stock.
6. Fill with appropriate fluid and test.

So, aside from shoddy workmanship, poor inspection processes, or low quality standards, what could go wrong?

Did I just answer my own question?
 
I just installed an off the shelf unit from RedHead Steering Gears. It's buttery smooth and there's zero play in the box. Cost was about $400 plus $250 refundable core. Here's the link to the Landcruiser box: 19721: 1990 – 1998 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Of course you can always send yours to them and have it rebuilt.
 
I just looked at that AC Delco part again...it's not the right part for the 80. That's $400-ish. I would trust a company like RedHead before going that route. O'Reilly was a similar price. It just doesn't seem like my labor and not having the learning experience is worth $350 when I could get a rebuild kit. I guess if I needed the rig right now it might be. But, I don't. COVID-19 means less driving. I guess I'll learn to rebuild it. Cool!

What are the disadvantages to using a stop-leak product in this to slow down the leak until I get around to it? As stated, I could park it until then, but even without AC and a leaky PS gear box, she prefers driving this over anything else in the fleet.

Edit:
So based on cost, I'm NOT going to replace the sector shaft in my 95 steering box right now. I would have to get a seal kit and rebuild it anyway to do this work. Keeping the budget low I'll just rebuild the box in the 92. The Sector shaft is straight in that one.

@brettk shared a seal kit part number with me in another thread: 80 series Reseal kit 04445-60050.
Is this all I need (plus the FAQ and video) to rebuild that unit? I can't find a list of parts that come in the kit.
What am I getting for $160? I couldn't find a listing of components on any of the sites I found the kit on.
Does anyone have a preferred vendor that they trust on this?

Second Edit: I just found it on Cruiser Outfitters site. I'm not even worried about what's in it if I get it from Kurt. I know it will be right. It's a little more than other places, like $20, but it's worth it for peace of mind.
 
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Or clean it off - find where it's leaking and ONLY replace the seals on that shaft. never have these but lots of saginaws farily easy. Forcing the steering one way is how you get the sector shaft seals out of saginaw boxes after removing the snap ring.
 

If you go the rebuild route there’s the thread listed in the FAQ.


Here is Redheads process and the extra mile they go to make it like/better than new.
 
The only thing that turned me off of rebuilding my own (besides time) is the lack of Teflon washers in the overhaul kit. Those seem to be unobtanium and if you cut or break one, you can't replace it easily. I bought the Gates overhaul kit from Rock Auto BTW. Same guts as OEM but only about $25. Note that there are some additional dealer parts that some folks buy for the adjustment screw; additional washer seal, spring and plunger .
 
The only thing that turned me off of rebuilding my own (besides time) is the lack of Teflon washers in the overhaul kit. Those seem to be unobtanium and if you cut or break one, you can't replace it easily. I bought the Gates overhaul kit from Rock Auto BTW. Same guts as OEM but only about $25. Note that there are some additional dealer parts that some folks buy for the adjustment screw; additional washer seal, spring and plunger .

Only $25? The kits I was finding in that price range were for the power steering pump, mislabeled as the Power Steering Gear. I'm not finding anything for the PS gearbox for under $150.

Edit: I'm just trying to keep all my info in one place without padding my post count. ;)
The link for the RockAuto Gates kit: More Information for GATES 348437
The link for the Cruiser Outfitters kit: Cruiser Outfitters

I called CO and they described the kit contents to me. It sounds like it's the same content, but OEM parts. I don't think I'll do this work for a couple weeks while I try to get a free weekend, but I plan to buy both kits and if they are the same, look and feel the same, I'll use the cheaper one and return the other. I trust Gates quality.
 
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If you go the rebuild route there’s the thread listed in the FAQ.


Here is Redheads process and the extra mile they go to make it like/better than new.

I just read the Redheads link. Wow! That's impressive. I understand the wear reduction that comes from precision tooling like that. I'm trying to understand how that translates to my steering box though. Again, I don't know enough about hydraulics. It seems like a pretty simple thing. Does it change safety or longevity on the part? If I don't do the whiz-bang stuff Redheads does, am I risking a PS blow-out on a trail somewhere?

I might do that for my '97, but on the '92...its for high school. If it survives this kid I'll be surprised. This one is just to keep it running safely without much money. Maybe I don't give it enough credit...
 
Like Howard705 said, get it cleaned up and figure out were the leak is first, It may just be a hose. And go from there.
 
I went with Redhead because it’s my wife’s daily driver and I didn’t want her stuck somewhere because of my :banana: skill level. My first car as a whole only cost me $300. I say that’s a good idea on rebuilding the 92.

I just read through all 10 pages of the FAQ. Yeesh! The Teflon seal, the plunger, and the ball bearings sound terrible!
 

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