Power Distribution with Logic

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Joined
Dec 1, 2004
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Looking at the options for power distribution. I have some sort of odd complex about wiring and plumbing. I guess I just see to many DNFs, fires, and tow-homes from those two things not being done well...

My AC wiring was hacked all to pieces from the PO rendering in DOA. Fixable I'm sure, but could easily use two PDU inputs from the AC on and trinary to drive the compressor. There are unloomed wires running here, there and everywhere, we need cooling fans with logic (AC driven and coolant temp driven with a delay to come on seconds after the AC compressor), glow plugs with logic (driven by air or coolant temp with low voltage protection), light bar relay, accessory relay, Air locker compressor, and the list goes on for tacked on electronics, etc...

I really like the PDUs we use in racing with practically infinitely customizable logic for on/off driven by switches and/or sensor input, circuit protection (no fuses), and solid state internal switching (no relays).

What are ya'll using for clean and reliable electrics?

The cheapest PDU I know of is from RacePak. The Smartwire system. Motec and liferacing are all way overkill.... It looks spendy at the onset, but it's every relay, fuse, breaker, etc, etc all in one box. No brain damage, reliable, and can be programmed for about anything. So perhaps not as spendy in the long run as it looks!

Open to other options though!

-Phil

smartwire.jpg


Output Capacity: 125 Amps
Current Consumption: 180 mA typical operation (<1 mA in shutdown mode)
Min/Max Power Supply: 8-20 Volts
Operating Power Supply: 12-16 volt automotive applications
Inputs: 12 hardwired direct (voltage triggered (>2.7V) or ground triggered (<2.5V)
Outputs: 30 (8 outputs @ 20 Amps, 22 outputs @ 10Amps)
Response: 3.0 milliseconds max
Programming: USB (or via V-Net when used with a V-Net data recorder)
Dimensions: Length 6.5” (16.51 cm), Width 5.5” (13.97 cm), Height 2.0” (5.08 cm)
Weight: 25.8 ounces (731.4 grams)


 
i believe you would still need a few relays for electric fans and intake heaters as many of those pull 30-40 from what i understand. it could be used as a timer for outputs and such for those applications. lots of outputs for lockers lights USB drives. i don't like that i would have to run every thing to one spot. i have 12v power run to 3 locations to pull for accessories depending on what they are next to the battery for high amp relays. near fuse box for dash accessories and the back for future amp running the compressor and what not.
 
You could do the same with an Arduino if you really wanted to get into it. Using MOSFET's or a relay board with 5v coils and a voltage converter to run the Arduino itself.
 
No you can combine input/outputs for the 30/40a draws. This is what my solution is going to be as well.
I was wondering that was acceptable practice with units like this

Sent from my SM-G900V
 
I'm an EE and going WOW with all y'all high tech s***......
 
No you can combine input/outputs for the 30/40a draws. This is what my solution is going to be as well.

Are you looking at the Smartwire in particular or another PDU?


A few of my thoughts are:

1) I like a centralized PD point. Makes trouble shooting real easy when something crops up-- and it always done crop up!

2) I have 2 electric fans. Run them staged based on ECT and AC demand. One fan come on when temp above X and both when temp above Y. AC demand would force both fans of course. The PDU would run these directly (no relays).

3) Use the normal factory AC button to trigger the request for AC to the PDU. The trinary must be closed to satisfy an On condition for the AC compressor. (The PDU would run the AC compressor directly, no relay). May need two 20amp PDU outputs for this. Anyone have a spec what the AC clutch required draw is?

4) Put a few second delay in the fans coming on when AC compressor comes on to avoid shock loading the alternator...

5) Use a starter solenoid to run the glow plugs and use a low amp output on the PDU to drive that solenoid which is conditional based on ECT. So maybe 5 seconds on when coolant temp at 30-50, no seconds above 50F, and 10 seconds on below 30.... I don't know the heater grid (what I'm calling glow plugs) timing all that well for the cummins, so I would play with that. I have found that my 6BT will start reliably down to 5F or so without the heater grid, but it's a pretty rough start!

6) Tee off the request to the starter solenoid for the glow plugs/heater grid to let the remote starter know when to crank the motor.

7) Use the PDU basic key on functions for as much of the accessory power as possible so that I can eliminate relays and fuses. Things such as ARB air compressor, light bar, anything else that comes up! :)


....hrmmmm....

-Phil
 
I was wondering that was acceptable practice with units like this

Sent from my SM-G900V

Yep, joining two channels is perfectly acceptable for larger draw. They have like 150amp intermittent capability as well... I think the only relay/solenoid I'd need to run is one for the heater grid/glow plug...

-Phil
 
I thought I was getting high tech when I went from electrical tape to shrink wrap.
 
:meh: I'm confused but interested.....
 
Look at the price you may not be as interested. Looks like a cool I was suprised at the price.

Sent from my SM-G900V
 

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