Powder Coating Frenzy!

[Coolerman]

What several days of hard work get you....

 

[my64fj40]

Those parts look great. Reminds me of the days I was getting my stuff back

The only thing I see that may be a problem is the thermostat water neck, IIRC powdercoat doesn't hold up real well to radiator fluid, antifreeze.

 

[camcruiser13]

looks like christamas all over again.


nice

 

[Coolerman]

I did these myself in the basement. I have the EastWood Hot Coat system. It's pretty simple to use, just need to get an old oven to put in the garage!

I was not aware of the problem with anti-freeze and powder coat! If that is the case I will need to remove that from those parts. Anybody know for sure? The powder used is a polyester powder.

Damn, I coated the thermo housing, heater T and both heater valves!

 

[hatchman]

doesn't the anti freeze run on the inside of the parts ?........so how does that affect the outsde?

 

[MTPCRUISER]

Looking good.

How is the coverage with the hot coat system? Any problems with uneven application? Any tips or tricks to pass on?

 

[Coolerman]

doesn't the anti freeze run on the inside of the parts ?........so how does that affect the outsde?

Well, I coated the inside of the parts also!

 

[Coolerman]

Looking good.

How is the coverage with the hot coat system? Any problems with uneven application? Any tips or tricks to pass on?

Once you figure out the air pressure it covers very well. I don't pay too much attention to their suggestion of 8 PSI. It will vary from 3-12 depending on several things like pressure in the tank. I set it low enough to get a good cloud and NOT blow any powder off the part.

My biggest mistake was not keeping enough powder in the cup. There needs to be at least 1.5" in the cup at all times to get a good 'cloud'.

Black is a hard color to get a good even coat as it's hard to see how thick it is. I learned to have BRIGHT light on my powder coating stand.

Pre-bake ALL thick cast iron or aluminum parts for 30 minutes! Then wipe the part down after it has cooled with acetone until the rag shows NO BLACK marks! If you don't do this the part will out gas causing bubbles in the coat. The turn signal switch housing on mine turned out bad even though I baked it once, sandblasted it, baked it again then wiped it down with acetone. I found on the web where it mentioned that some aluminum parts just cannot be coated due to out gassing.

Another mistake I made was assuming that all powders have the same bake schedule. I over cooked a few parts (turns the color several shades darker) before I realized this. Make sure to follow the specs on the powder NOT the gun! Polyester powders take 10 minutes @400 degrees after flow out where epoxy may take 20 minutes after flow.

Uh lets see, parts with a lot of angles are hard to coat evenly. An example is the clutch/brake pedal assembly housing and the air filter housing. I disassembled them, de-rusted them, sand blasted them, then learned that it was almost impossible to get the powder into the deep crevices. I had to use some black epoxy paint to finish some parts up!

 

[Ian Rogers]

coolerman

I would no use that radiator fan, no even on a show truck. It will break, and might hurt some one. get a 6 blade non-clutched fan.

best

Ian

 

[Degnol]

coolerman

I would no use that radiator fan, no even on a show truck. It will break, and might hurt some one. get a 6 blade non-clutched fan.

best

Ian

X2....have you ever seen the pic of the fan blade sticking through the hood?
Cooler, I have a 6 blade DD fanblade I will give you. I think you will need the spacer to run it in place of the Cuisinart blade.
GL

And PM me an addy if you want the fan.

Ed

 

[my64fj40]

doesn't the anti freeze run on the inside of the parts ?........so how does that affect the outsde?

I was referring the the powdercoat that comes into contact with the antifreeze, which would be the inside of the parts

Coolerman,
I'll check around to see if it's true or not. But I think I remember when I was looking at an intake manifold my powdercoater did, he was explaining he didn't do some of it on the inside because of the antifreeze problem.

Maybe someone else will chime in??

 

[thecrazygreek]

your kidding me

X2....have you ever seen the pic of the fan blade sticking through the hood?
Cooler, I have a 6 blade DD fanblade I will give you. I think you will need the spacer to run it in place of the Cuisinart blade.
GL

And PM me an addy if you want the fan.

Ed

[rant]

I highly doubt that the fan blade has a high likelyhood of "breaking". Mine only ran for 30+ years without issue. And I'm sure most everyone here with an old F has ran theres for years without issues.

I think it's fine to change it, but dont use the ol' "omg your going to die!!! what the hell are you doing with that fan blade of death?..."

[/rant]

 

[Ian Rogers]

[rant]

I highly doubt that the fan blade has a high likelyhood of "breaking". Mine only ran for 30+ years without issue. And I'm sure most everyone here with an old F has ran theres for years without issues.

I think it's fine to change it, but dont use the ol' "omg your going to die!!! what the hell are you doing with that fan blade of death?..."

[/rant]

I my self have pulled 2 off that have had cracks at least 1/2 way through the blade right at the mounting bolts. I think that you would be better off running NO FAN that a 4 blade metal fan. The problem is that when they fail it can be deadly/ hurt someone. Or just throw the blade down and out of the engine bay. worst yet the blade go through the radiator leaving you stranded.

 

[Coolerman]

Well, just to be sure I don't have, "THE FAN BLADE OF DEATH!!!" and just because ya never know, I just checked my fan and it looks fine. No cracks that the naked eye can see and no I did not have it magnafluxed...

I'll take you up on the offer of the 6 blade Ed. PM coming. I have read they also cool better? I can get the spacer.

 

[rgentry]

I broke one of those fans last year. Cost me a water pump and a fan shroud too. Call me crazy but I put another 4 blader back on (but I checked for cracks on the new fan).

 

[lc69hunter]

I have a big slice in my hood (since welded) where mine came apart going down the highway and lodged itself into my hood with about 6 inches sticking out.

They are not terribly efficient anyway. I know have a six blade fan without a clutch (and did have to use a spacer).

 

[projektdotnet]

I need to swap out my fan cause I managed to shred that 6blade plasticrap blade on mine (will get pics when I ever put a new fan on)...I like the sound of the 4 blade better anyway

 

[grant5127]

I have a big slice in my hood (since welded) where mine came apart going down the highway and lodged itself into my hood with about 6 inches sticking out.

Same here..........

 

[Ian Rogers]

Well, just to be sure I don't have, "THE FAN BLADE OF DEATH!!!" and just because ya never know, I just checked my fan and it looks fine. No cracks that the naked eye can see and no I did not have it magnafluxed...

I'll take you up on the offer of the 6 blade Ed. PM coming. I have read they also cool better? I can get the spacer.

I dont run a spacer and dont think that you need one, but mines on a 135F

 

[Coolerman]

When I get the 6 blade I will see how far it sticks into the shroud and use a spacer if I need it.