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- #1,041
Right around this time (15 Jan) in 2008 I closed the deal to purchase this fine swine!
She would arrive about a month later.
She would arrive about a month later.
Build POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise
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- Thread starter
- #1,042
I didn't post any details about the speedo cable!
I have pictures! Factory Toyota parts! In bags! W/ p/n's!
- Thread starter
- #1,043
- Thread starter
- #1,044
And it was right around this time (mid-Feb) that she showed up!
Somehow this didn't enhance our Valentine's Day celebration -
- Thread starter
- #1,045
Saving these links for future reference:
Yes I have searched, https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=121722&highlight=speedy+sleeve
This is on my buddies 72 (Furpants) and we are going to fix it tomorrow. Neither of us has done this before so I want to be prepared.
Will a speedi-sleeve fix this? Or is this the output seal gone bad? The ONLY place the gear oil is leaking is from the speedometer cable.
Appreciate the help.
This is on my buddies 72 (Furpants) and we are going to fix it tomorrow. Neither of us has done this before so I want to be prepared.
Will a speedi-sleeve fix this? Or is this the output seal gone bad? The ONLY place the gear oil is leaking is from the speedometer cable.
Appreciate the help.
- Thread starter
- #1,047
Y'all probably saw this in the @Bump It Offroad thread, but here she is sporting the prototype rear bumper:
- Thread starter
- #1,048
The new @Bump It Offroad bumper looks great!
The Baja Design S2s came with a switched harness, so now to decide how to hook it up. Do I keep it switched? Or do I wire it in to pick up the reverse light signal from the H55...
The Baja Design S2s came with a switched harness, so now to decide how to hook it up. Do I keep it switched? Or do I wire it in to pick up the reverse light signal from the H55...
I don't think it's possible to have too much light when reversing.
Sweet look and I agree, can’t have enough back up light
I wired my reverse lights to a switch on the dash, right next to the rock lights switch. I'll hit both switches when backing up at night.
It's nice having lights at the back without having to leave the ignition on, like if you're setting up camp after dark.
Also, if someone drives up behind you and forgets to turn their brights off it's good to be able to remind them...
It's nice having lights at the back without having to leave the ignition on, like if you're setting up camp after dark.
Also, if someone drives up behind you and forgets to turn their brights off it's good to be able to remind them...
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You could do both.
On the backup light switch, one connector feeds 12V switched ignition power, and the second connector feeds that power to the rear tail light harness.
So you could install a SPDT switch inside the cab which would allow you to set "with" the backup switch, or independent of it. Use that with a relay, remembering that applying power to Pin 86 while Pin 85 is grounded creates a magnetic field, which causes the internal switch to close and allows power flow from Pin 30 to Pin 87.
Pin 30 (Relay Power): Connect to a fused 12V+ constant or switched power source from the battery.
Pin 87 (Relay Output): Connect to the positive (+) wire of your Baja lights.
Pin 85 (Relay Ground): Connect to a clean chassis ground.
Pin 86 (Trigger Input): Connect a wire coming from either the transmission reverse switch wire or your manual dash switch.
There are diagrams all over the Internet that use 86 for ground and 85 for the trigger. It used to not matter if you flipped power and ground between Pin 85 and Pin 86, but many modern relays include a built-in suppression diode or resistor across the coil to protect against voltage spikes. When a relay coil de-energizes, the collapsing magnetic field creates a sudden reverse-voltage spike (flyback, or freewheeling if you're an old) that can exceed 100 volts from a 12V source. V = L x di/dt, where L is the inductance in Henries and di/dt is how fast the current changes over time. Without a diode, when the switch turns off, di/dt is extremely fast, causing V to spike to destructive levels limited only by circuit parasitics.
The coil in a relay is an inductor. The behavior of an inductor is that it "tries" to keep the current in the circuit constant. When you open the switch that allowed the current through the coil to flow, at the instant the switch opens the inductor will keep the current at exactly the same magnitude and flowing in the same direction. Its stored energy will find some place to go - it doesn't "care" if it does it at 1 volt or 1000 volts.
If you have an ECU or other sensitive electronics with MOSFETs that can't deal with 100VDC (you don't in your FJ55, but in a more modern car, you likely do) the collapsing field in the coil will cause a voltage spike that can damage the MOSFETs or transistors. If your relay has an internal diode that protects against that voltage spike (and if you purchased it recently, it likely does, because the market is largely cars and trucks newer than your 1974 Toyota), pin 85 must go to ground and pin 86 must go to positive 12V; reversing them can short or damage the diode inside the relay.
tl;dr: your pig don't care unless you put a modern ECU in it.
This is technically illegal, just don't get caught.
On the backup light switch, one connector feeds 12V switched ignition power, and the second connector feeds that power to the rear tail light harness.
So you could install a SPDT switch inside the cab which would allow you to set "with" the backup switch, or independent of it. Use that with a relay, remembering that applying power to Pin 86 while Pin 85 is grounded creates a magnetic field, which causes the internal switch to close and allows power flow from Pin 30 to Pin 87.
Pin 30 (Relay Power): Connect to a fused 12V+ constant or switched power source from the battery.
Pin 87 (Relay Output): Connect to the positive (+) wire of your Baja lights.
Pin 85 (Relay Ground): Connect to a clean chassis ground.
Pin 86 (Trigger Input): Connect a wire coming from either the transmission reverse switch wire or your manual dash switch.
There are diagrams all over the Internet that use 86 for ground and 85 for the trigger. It used to not matter if you flipped power and ground between Pin 85 and Pin 86, but many modern relays include a built-in suppression diode or resistor across the coil to protect against voltage spikes. When a relay coil de-energizes, the collapsing magnetic field creates a sudden reverse-voltage spike (flyback, or freewheeling if you're an old) that can exceed 100 volts from a 12V source. V = L x di/dt, where L is the inductance in Henries and di/dt is how fast the current changes over time. Without a diode, when the switch turns off, di/dt is extremely fast, causing V to spike to destructive levels limited only by circuit parasitics.
The coil in a relay is an inductor. The behavior of an inductor is that it "tries" to keep the current in the circuit constant. When you open the switch that allowed the current through the coil to flow, at the instant the switch opens the inductor will keep the current at exactly the same magnitude and flowing in the same direction. Its stored energy will find some place to go - it doesn't "care" if it does it at 1 volt or 1000 volts.
If you have an ECU or other sensitive electronics with MOSFETs that can't deal with 100VDC (you don't in your FJ55, but in a more modern car, you likely do) the collapsing field in the coil will cause a voltage spike that can damage the MOSFETs or transistors. If your relay has an internal diode that protects against that voltage spike (and if you purchased it recently, it likely does, because the market is largely cars and trucks newer than your 1974 Toyota), pin 85 must go to ground and pin 86 must go to positive 12V; reversing them can short or damage the diode inside the relay.
tl;dr: your pig don't care unless you put a modern ECU in it.
This is technically illegal, just don't get caught.
- Thread starter
- #1,055
You could do both.
On the backup light switch, one connector feeds 12V switched ignition power, and the second connector feeds that power to the rear tail light harness.
So you could install a SPDT switch inside the cab which would allow you to set "with" the backup switch, or independent of it. Use that with a relay, remembering that applying power to Pin 86 while Pin 85 is grounded creates a magnetic field, which causes the internal switch to close and allows power flow from Pin 30 to Pin 87.
Pin 30 (Relay Power): Connect to a fused 12V+ constant or switched power source from the battery.
Pin 87 (Relay Output): Connect to the positive (+) wire of your Baja lights.
Pin 85 (Relay Ground): Connect to a clean chassis ground.
Pin 86 (Trigger Input): Connect a wire coming from either the transmission reverse switch wire or your manual dash switch.
There are diagrams all over the Internet that use 86 for ground and 85 for the trigger. It used to not matter if you flipped power and ground between Pin 85 and Pin 86, but many modern relays include a built-in suppression diode or resistor across the coil to protect against voltage spikes. When a relay coil de-energizes, the collapsing magnetic field creates a sudden reverse-voltage spike (flyback, or freewheeling if you're an old) that can exceed 100 volts from a 12V source. V = L x di/dt, where L is the inductance in Henries and di/dt is how fast the current changes over time. Without a diode, when the switch turns off, di/dt is extremely fast, causing V to spike to destructive levels limited only by circuit parasitics.
The coil in a relay is an inductor. The behavior of an inductor is that it "tries" to keep the current in the circuit constant. When you open the switch that allowed the current through the coil to flow, at the instant the switch opens the inductor will keep the current at exactly the same magnitude and flowing in the same direction. Its stored energy will find some place to go - it doesn't "care" if it does it at 1 volt or 1000 volts.
If you have an ECU or other sensitive electronics with MOSFETs that can't deal with 100VDC (you don't in your FJ55, but in a more modern car, you likely do) the collapsing field in the coil will cause a voltage spike that can damage the MOSFETs or transistors. If your relay has an internal diode that protects against that voltage spike (and if you purchased it recently, it likely does, because the market is largely cars and trucks newer than your 1974 Toyota), pin 85 must go to ground and pin 86 must go to positive 12V; reversing them can short or damage the diode inside the relay.
tl;dr: your pig don't care unless you put a modern ECU in it.
This is technically illegal, just don't get caught.
I'm usually a fan of "Why not both?", so I like this idea.
SPDT switch: https://www.amazon.com/Joinfworld-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof-Position/dp/B0BMG4CRDY/?tag=ihco-20
A little video on the 4-pin Bosch-style relay:
Relay: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0986332030-Relay/dp/B00BHIM4N0/?tag=ihco-20
- Thread starter
- #1,056
It makes sense to me to wire up 85 as ground and 86 as triggered positive.
Here is a relay w/ diode: https://www.amazon.com/4-PIN-AMP-Waterproof-Relay-Harness/dp/B0FQ72CJLW/?tag=ihco-20