Potential issues running 35’s (2 Viewers)

[Adventureguy]

Rack, OTRE, and CVs can handle 37s just fine so to answer your original question - you’ll be fine.

Thanks!

 

[highfructose]

That’s currently what I have.

Is that the only reason you are sizing back down? I have a tire carrier on the back so I can run a full size spare regardless.

One reason is that with the swing away and full size spare, access to the hatch isn’t quick…if I’ve got my dogs in a cage back there, I want to be able to get them out quick when stopping on a road trip…or getting to my tools…or whatever. The swing away is a bit of a nuisance…if I don’t want my spare tire at that moment, I don’t want to be touching it and moving it…I’ve got my swing away on a fold down carrier so it’s less of a nuisance day to day…but the nuisance comes back when I fold it up for towing.

Another reason is there will be a mild reduction in power and braking. This can be mitigated by regearing and big braking…but with 33’s those gears and brakes would be even better. 35’s won’t make it better.

Another reason is the niggling notion that the vehicle will not handle BETTER on the highway with 35’s…thus if I ever was caught in a moment in need of evasive maneuvering, I would have placed myself and my family in a slightly less flexible position and thus more danger than I could have…for marginal Offroad performance, aesthetics, and damping improvement.

Wheel package weight is an issue too though this can be mitigated-the toyo at3 is 59 lbs for 35x12.5r17…even with my relatively heavy alpha equipt’s could get my to 87 lbs…which is close enough to oem.

If I can find someone in an opposite position (having 33’s and wanting 35’s) near me that wants to swap out relatively new 285 70 r17 lt c’s I would do so knowing what I know now.

No regrets though…I needed to know what 35’s felt like, looked like, and what the experience was like…my inner child has its needs And while capitalism means we all have to work a lot, it also means we can buy relatively dumb things just to see how we like them.

 

[Nooooooooob1]

I was going to make a new thread, but I’ll just tag on to this one.

On the LC, there’s so much back and forth on what actually needs to be done to make 35’s work. I’ve read all the threads, but am still unable to come to a definitive conclusion.

Do I need to do the KDSS relo? Do I need to install extended bumpstops to run 0 offset wheels with 35’s? Do I need anything more than a 2” lift?

 

[GTV]

Wheel package weight is an issue too though this can be mitigated-the toyo at3 is 59 lbs for 35x12.5r17…even with my relatively heavy alpha equipt’s could get my to 87 lbs…which is close enough to oem.

I've been very curious about those 59lb Toyo's. For my use case C load range has performed flawlessly, no need for anything heavier. However the 111 load index makes me nervous that they would be too light weight for a heavy cruiser.

Anyone here have real world experience with them?

 

[TeCKis300]

I was going to make a new thread, but I’ll just tag on to this one.

On the LC, there’s so much back and forth on what actually needs to be done to make 35’s work. I’ve read all the threads, but am still unable to come to a definitive conclusion.

Do I need to do the KDSS relo? Do I need to install extended bumpstops to run 0 offset wheels with 35’s? Do I need anything more than a 2” lift?

View attachment 3257583

The information is all there and I can try to sum it up for you. Part of the discussion as to why people feel 34s are better is because of the slippery slope of mods needed for 35s. Where 34s can run a compromise of not needing some mods, and bad geometries are not as exacerbated. That partly also means watch for too much lift as that really exacerbates toe steer and handling geometries.

Offset is up there at the top to making 35s work and work well. Something in the range of 30-35mm for fitment, scrub radius, etc.

Gearing has to be addressed at 35s IMO, if you're going to ask the rig to do any real work.

Braking with larger calipers for pre-2016s. Higher friction performance pads are recommended for all.

Yes, def need a KDSS relocation.

BMC required. Don't compromise geometry by using the UCA to pull the tire forward.

Add more aggressive bump stops.

From there, just a bit more pinch welds and fender liner clearancing.

A full matching spare might not work, but a full performance tire that's almost the same size can fit. The common 35x12.5 is 602 revs/mile. A spare that's 3-4% of that will work. I wouldn't call these donuts as they're bigger than what most others run full time and won't need any compromise to finish a trip: LT285/75R17 (33.9", 614 revs/mile), LT295/70R18 (34.3", 606 revs/mile), or LT275/65R20 (34.1", 609 revs/mile)

With that recipe, 35s work so incredibly well, almost like stock.

 

[Nooooooooob1]

The information is all there and I can try to sum it up for you. Part of the discussion as to why people feel 34s are better is because of the slippery slope of mods needed for 35s. Where 34s can run a compromise of not needing some mods, and bad geometries are not as exacerbated. That partly also means watch for too much lift as that really exacerbates toe steer and handling geometries.

Offset is up there at the top to making 35s work and work well. Something in the range of 30-35mm for fitment, scrub radius, etc.

Gearing has to be addressed at 35s IMO, if you're going to ask the rig to do any real work.

Braking with larger calipers for pre-2016s. Higher friction performance pads are recommended for all.

Yes, def need a KDSS relocation.

BMC required. Don't compromise geometry by using the UCA to pull the tire forward.

Add more aggressive bump stops.

From there, just a bit more pinch welds and fender liner clearancing.

A full matching spare might not work, but a full performance tire that's almost the same size can fit. The common 35x12.5 is 602 revs/mile. A spare that's 3-4% of that will work. I wouldn't call these donuts as they're bigger than what most others run full time and won't need any compromise to finish a trip: LT285/75R17 (33.9", 614 revs/mile), LT295/70R18 (34.3", 606 revs/mile), or LT275/65R20 (34.1", 609 revs/mile)

With that recipe, 35s work so incredibly well, almost like stock.

Thanks for your very detailed reply!!!

I ended up going with a 285/75/17 and +25 offset. Should be here in a couple weeks!