Post pictures of your aftermarket switch locations.
- Thread starter duvinclunk
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- #22
I had considered this area, certainly a good flat spot but worried about bumping it. Is that a grass floor mat? Haha.
In the years I’ve had the switches here, not once have I bumped them accidentally. There is a metal structure that needs to be trimmed to put all three in.
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- #24
I just popped out my switch blanks and it appears were you have the locker switches, that hole actually isn't square, but round. I'm assuming when you mentioned opening it up you had to cut out a good amount of that side? Even where the compressor switch would go appears it would need a good deal of cutting too. Just want to make sure I'm doing it right before hacking it up.I removed the whole panel like @Ayune detailed already, then the switch blank just pops out. I did have to open up the hole a bit to fit the switches--it's too small. So they fit plenty tight.
Yeah, I cut it out pretty good. More horizontally than vertically, and IIRC more toward the window side than the steering wheel. Pretty quick work with a dremel, albeit messy.
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- #26
Cool. I'm going to have to pull that whole panel out so I can contain the mess to my garage floor instead of the inside of the car.Yeah, I cut it out pretty good. More horizontally than vertically, and IIRC more toward the window side than the steering wheel. Pretty quick work with a dremel, albeit messy.
Stock f and r switch with ARB's. The DAC (da air compressor) switch controls the air compressor. Engagement is so fast. No issues.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
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- #29
I'll have to look up the wiring diagram for that switch again. The first time I looked at it my head exploded (wiring and electrical isn't my thing). I liked the idea of using ARB's switches so that I could turn on a front locker only if needed but reading through ARB's manual for the locker systems, you have to engage the rear in order to turn on the front. The front can't go on without the rear which is why I opted no to the factory switch. I'll have another look at the wiring diagram and if I can't figure it out I'll just bore out my factory hole for the ARB switches.
Slee did mine. Another guy just had this done in Raleigh. I asked him about the wiring.
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - FLEXUS 2000 LX-470
Well been busy. Good and bad. So went over to the guys house that helped me do the T-case. because the T case was dripping ever so slightly. So we cleaned it off and and topped off the fluid and we’re going to monitor it. While we were under there I was like hey let’s replace the front diff oil...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #31
I looked at the diagram again. No idea what I'm looking at. Haha. ARB just makes it so easy as their diagram and product are designed to install so easily without any custom wiring. I may ask around here if anyone has done it and could help out otherwise I'll stick with the ARB switches.Slee did mine. Another guy just had this done in Raleigh. I asked him about the wiring.
Builds - FLEXUS 2000 LX-470
Well been busy. Good and bad. So went over to the guys house that helped me do the T-case. because the T case was dripping ever so slightly. So we cleaned it off and and topped off the fluid and we’re going to monitor it. While we were under there I was like hey let’s replace the front diff oil...
ARB's wiring is really easy to modify to get independent control of F&R lockers. As it's supplied, there is no power to the front switch unless the rear switch is turned on. If you only have one ARB (like me), you use the "rear" circuit.
All you need to do is run a jumper wire from the R switch to the F switch so they both have power all the time, then you can choose which to engage when.
The factory switch sure does make it clean though.
All you need to do is run a jumper wire from the R switch to the F switch so they both have power all the time, then you can choose which to engage when.
The factory switch sure does make it clean though.
We need a write up on how to wire up a factory switch. ;<)
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- #34
A nice, detailed, sloooowww video would do the trick! Haha.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
I found the Apollointech Left Side A-Piller 4-Switch Pod & Source Control system custom fit for the Jeep Wrangler on Amazon... I've got the switch mounted and Lance at Iron Pig Offroad made a bracket to mount the relay in the engine compartment. Still need to run wiring through the firewall but this is right in my wheel house ... Plug and Play for $130.00
https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech...=Apollointech+Left+Side+A-Piller+4-Switch+Pod
https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech...=Apollointech+Left+Side+A-Piller+4-Switch+Pod
Yea so ECGS did the wiring for me. I was told that they called slee and looked on forms and found the wiring diagram. I assume they found it because mine work lol. So I can't really tell you how hard it was to wire up. But I would not think it would be too hard! Also when you look. Look in all the forms 80 and 60 there has to be one
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- #37
Ended up mounting my switches tonight. Not super satisfied with how snug they are. While they're not loose per se, they have some slight wiggle if you were to grab and twist them. I'll have to play with ideas to keep them snug. They'll probably be fine as is but I'd like the piece of mind.
Sorry for the awful quality pictures. Taken in a dark garage with a cell phone.
Sorry for the awful quality pictures. Taken in a dark garage with a cell phone.
I really like this location. Do you not have air bags behind there? I do and so I'm thinking that probably isn't a great idea in my case
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
I do have the side curtain air bag there but the air bag comes out through the weather strip just left running parallel to the A-Pillar..it should not be an issue.I really like this location. Do you not have air bags behind there? I do and so I'm thinking that probably isn't a great idea in my case
I do recall I jammed something between the two switches, and wrapped a ziptie around the pair to compress them together, against the spacer thing. (I think it was a piece of rubber or something similar)
